nipper

i didnt say anything about belts. i just said timing. there are gears, and they can go bad too. nipper

how mechanical are you? The dealer did mine he said he had to peasure the plates to know which ones to order. With my back healing from surgery and no garage to work in i didnt argue. BTW the dealer charge for parts for my 1997 was 459.78 and labor was 510.00 just to give you a heads up. The problem with a tranny shop is that they may tell you the entire trannt is shot. i couldnt find one that wouldnt sell me an entire transmission so i went to the dealer. nipper

check the timing to make sure nothing has jumped. Sudden failure like this under those circumstances i would suspect jumped timing or the car digesting something like stated above. nipper

you dont say how many miles on this. Since the #3 plug is soaked, you found your source. Your going to have to o a wet/dry compression test and see what gives. Other then a stuck pcv valve, looks like you have bad rings or valve guide nipper

Just replace the freezeout plug. The freezout plug did exaclty what it was supposed to do. You will have to flush the cooling system, and dont be surprised itf it needs a raditor, but it should be fine. i would be more worried if the freezeout plug didnt pop. Worse case scenario is that you got a sweet body that may need a block, but i seriously doubt thats the problem. nipper

NOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooo E85 has many isues, first off it gets less gas mileage then gasoline. Secondly the fuel tank and fuel lines have to be cleaned and flushed of all dirt. E85 is a powerful solvent, and if you have a carb, its not fun to clog one of those puppies up. Third you need to replace the rubber fuel lines under the hood, and any rubber and plastic that may see fuel (evap system vac lines) with hoses that can deal with the e85. I know on good old fashioned carns that they can run on e85 by rejetting the carbs, i dont know what you do on this. Also because something works on a turbo doesnt mean it works on a NA engine. ALmost all the sites ive seen storngly advise NOT to do this. Its an easy conversion on a car that is e85 ready. Yes it only costs a few 100 dolars to do on an assembly line, but costs more if the car was never prepared for it. I've already seen a few nightmare stories of people doing this and having to have fuel systems professionally cleaned, including carbs. In Fuel injected cars you need larger injectors, and there is a question as to how the computer will handle it. If you want to do it, go ahead, personally i wouldnt, and there is no guarentee how long the car will run. nipper

i was going to say the reason no code was thrown was because as far as the tranny is concerned everything is ok. SOUnds like the overrunning clutch in the TC went bad. Also while your there check the flex plate and rear main seal. nipper

model year mileage engine and tranny please. nipper

What is with the swearing, its not my fault the insurance compnay is paying a game. i've been through this with Travelers, and its a tough nut to crack. You need to show how much it would cost to replace the car, not the blue book value, and hold your ground. You need to use newspaper ads, and other sources of info on the value of the car. get the banks statement in writing. Check your state laws on how it works. some states you have more leverage then others. Also if you can run out the clock arguing with them, you may have a better chance of getting your price. i got shafted on my legacy, but i also had injuries to deal with so i didnt have the energy to put up two fights at once. When my legacy got totaled, they pulled up the cars entire histroy (information not even carfax had) and told me there were three prior claims on it (possibly glass) and that that took away from value of the car. Save your swearing for people who are working against you, not trying to help, otherwise you may find no one wanting to help you. nipper nipper

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/ ask these guys for help. nipper

no springs in the thingies will do it every time nipper

check the timing belt and cam timing. Also ccehck to make sure the catalytic converter isnt clogged. Another thing to look at itr si the fule filter and fuel pump. can you list what has been looked at and ruled out? nipper

if i rember correctly, there shold be some things that look like door stops that are spring loaded someplace on the door frame. Been a while since ive looked at these things, nipper

http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi?board=ecvt join that board there is a lot of info there. there is a way to pull codes off a justy, but i dont rember how off hand. The carb is worth a small fortune, so i would keep that. nipper

darn how did i miss this one, what he said the bad news is that if the flush didnt fix it, you need to get it repaired at a steep price to have AWD. You can put the FWD fuse in under the hood to make the car driveable, but even that may not work. nipper

that was true, but not for newer old cars (think before 1990). Also back then they used chemical flushes, that would remove the gunk holding the tranny together. With higher demands on the trannnies now, they are built a lot tougher, and the new fluid doesnt hurt htem. Many people hear have had flushes on subaruies with almost 200,000 miles on them and no problem. Also remeber back in the day when that held true, a car with 80,000 miles on it was considered old. nipper

'' could be a sticky lifter, could be a few things, would be nice to know what the oil pressure is when this happens. My guess is that since its new, we can rule out piston slap. Its more like a lifter gets in just the right position to drain. Restart the car and it pumps up, assuming this has hydraulic lifters. How long for the noise to go away. nipper

NEVER use a detergent in a transmission, or anyplace for that matter, except to clean out a radiator that is off the car. There are many chemicals in transmission fluid, and they dont last for ever, they break down or evaporate with age, hence why its recomended to flush the tranny every x miles. Flushing is removing all the old fluid and replacing it with fresh. When this is done it disolves the gum (varnish)in the valve body, AWD valves and in the clutch plates. This solvent is one of the things that wears out with time. http://www.carcare.org/Auto_Transmission/trans_fluid.shtml http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htm nipper

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html see if that helps. nipper

no giant Magnets?

for all intensive purposes they are the same thing. The cv joint is part of the axle. And when you replace the cv joint, you usually replace the entire assembly. and i would check the pressure in ther AV system first. nipper

Your also going to need a new receiver/dryer, since the system has been open and the compressor is seized. Fear is usually that there are bits of compressor in the ac system and it should be flushed out. nipper

HAHAHA your right. And a truly exciting climax when it goes POOF There was a post here telling how the 2.5 was at it's design limits, but the 2.2 can withstand a turbo. The design limits doesnt mean the engine is weak, just that the bearings etc etc etc is maxed out and cant produce more power then it does already. nipper

there is a home test, Also there is a new "if all else fails" stop leak for HG's you may want to try made by stop leak. in theory if done right it should work nipper

you need a new door lock motor. These are motors ( i think) and not solenoids (takes less power to operate) and one of the internal switches are bad in the motor housing