nipper

WHAT! no cookie nipper

if you had a code reader on the car you can see in realtime what the car is doing when the bucking happens, but yes it can. And it can do it without throwing a code. nipper

i do GIMMIE GIMMIE GIMMIE nipper:banana:

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm people yes it is very doable, and yes this can screw you up. DO you have ye olde haynes manuale nipper

www.radiator.com call them, dont go through the website. They will tell you what you want to know, and have great prices. nipper

have you had the car checked for codes? nipper

grrr i hate it when they leave out little details like "bucking":banghead: thats a HUGE detail. Do us a favor please , start a new thread and ask about the bucking, so things dont get confused. What have you replaced, have you checked for codes, when does the car buck? nipper

only thing i pay a disposal fee on is tires and batteries here in NY nipper

13-15 in stop and go is good with AC on. EPA tests for the urban circuit is a series of stops and driving at 30mph. This is done indoors and on a dyno. EPA tests are great for comparing cars to each other, not so great for showinig what your car can do. the o2 sensor is your a/f ratio sensor. Did you install an OE sensor? nipper

if a flush doesnt cure the TB, odds are its not correctable. You dont want a high detergant fluid since there is good gunk and bad gunk. The closest youll have is changing to synthetic. The seals may leak for a while but that shoud go away. In a 96 tranny your already at odds. There was a redesign in 1997 1/2 to correct the failure mode for TB. It still happens on newer cars but that is due to age or bad tires. No such thing as changing fluids too often. You can do exaclty what you say, also in a pre 1997 and 1/2 you need to be religous about tires matching and air pressure. nipper

its the thingy that makes the wheels go left and right. Its behind the engine and runs across the car. nipper

get the dead body out of the car? In NYC stop and go traffic i can get as low as 13mpg with the air on. i dont consider this the cars fault. DO you have any breaks dragging. Are the tires high mile tires (long life) of low mileage tires. Low milegae tires are softer rubber and in general will have lower gas mileage. Check your air pressure. If your not using it remove the cross bars from your roof rack. Also reset your computer, let it sit overnight disconnected so it has to re learn your driving habit. If i drive with a lead foot i can get my mpg down to 15 in local driving. Also er um, how to put this nicely .... the size of the occupants will have an effect on gas mileage. nipper

The typical thing is oil in the antifreeze, but that would show up along with over heating, lack of heat, and exhaust gasses in the coolant. They are making correct statements, but that statement doesnt apply to subaru. Also one of the first step in finding an oil leak (if it is not massive or obvious) is to clean the engine. If they did not clean your engine then send you on your way for a week, they dont know what they are doing. I think your are just fine. You have a good solid car. nipper

HG leak antifreeze, not oil. The oil galleys arent close to the edge of the block. You have a leaking seal or a loose valve cover gasket. 1400 is a good dealer price, but i feel you dont have HG issue. Oil on the sparkplug... you have a loose or leaking valve cover gasket. Check to make sure its tight. Worse case is you need a VC gasket, which means you live with it untill it gets bad, or the next tune up. Keep an eye on your oil, but i think you have nothing to fear aside from an overly hungry stealership. nipper

my 1997 PBW i smell coolant 185,000 miles, and my freinds 1995 forester 10,000 miles i smell coolant. No puddles, no loss in the cooling system, so i just ignore it. nipper

He knows nothing of subarus. Dont let him touch the car. Piston slap is just one of those unique subaru sounds. If you never complained about it, at 105,000 miles, you have been living with it, keep on living with it. Oil consumption, replace the pcv valve with one from subaru. Gunk in the cooling system (i bet he means the overflow tank) is just that, gunk. Clean the tank refil it and watch. If your not over heating you dont have a blown Head gasket. Again your not overheating dont replace the radiator. Honestly, if this man ran a shop i would report him to th BBB. I would even doubt his brake diagnoses. This is what you need a cooling system flush (non chemical) If it hasnt been done a tranny flush (mileage maint item). A PCV Valve. An oil change. MAYBE wires (again mileage) but only if you have a damp weather complaint. I mean i can run of a list on any car a mile long at 100,000 miles of things that could be replaced, doesnt mean they NEED replacing. Now lets get back to a question that no one has asked before. You just pulled into my shop. Do you have any complaints about the car way runs? Answer me the way you would have answered before this guy looked at the car. nipper

if it happens again and you have an automatic, lightly apply the brakes while applying the gas, this puts enough drag on the spining wheel to trnasfer power to the non slipping wheel. Also using low in the automatic forces 50/50 awd. If you have a stick, lightly apply the parking brake. nipper

NOOOOOOOOOOO MAKE THIS GO AWAY !!!!!!!!!! dont go by the gas gauge on range or mileage. The gauge sending unit gets dirty (chevron has an additive that actually works to clean the sender) and gives you a false reading. The fuel light is always accurate. Mine always comes on at 280 miles like clockwork around town. i get about 21 around town, and im happy with it, considering my around town (1997 obw)is like most peoples city driving. nipper

sigh - i KNOW its a 5speed. I even said he had a bad VC!!!!!!! Any AWD vehical can get torque bind. Subarus are no different. If you would SEARCH torque bind you would find out that there is a viscous coulping. This VC works in conjunction with the center differnetial allows the front and rear axles to turn at diffent speeds on curves. Now if the VC is bad, you will have torquebind, as this ability would be gone. Automatics and TB have some tricks to try before it has to be repaired. Manuals once it shows up there isnt much to do aside from saving up money for the repair. The original poster even said he has binding on turns, thats WHY i said its TB. A bad center bearing will give thumping noise, and rarely give you torue bind like symptons. From an engineering and 20 year plus technician point of veiw, in order top do that the bearing almost has to be falling out of the car. i was reffering to fnlyfnd suggestion about it possibly being the center bearing as a seprate response. nipper

you still need to completly drain then refil the automatic transmission fluid. This is especially true since the synthetic may even degunk it more then regular fluid. ALso the old fluid is tired. Alot of its chemical properties are worn out or gone. NO mayyer that fluid you use you need to change all the fluid. nipper

92-94 autos suck compared to a 95 Anything is faster when compared to a stick. nipper

does this mean i have to give up my parking space now? nipper

two things use transmission type fluid, the transmission and the power steering system. i bet the PS system is leaking onto the exhaust pipe. Check the O rings at the rack for a leak. nipper

very first thing i would do is check to make sure the timing belt was put on properly. Its very hard for these engines to have no compression at all unless there is a timing belt issue. nipper

the center carrier bearing will cause a thumping in the floor. Easy thing to check, just get under the car and shake the driveshaft at the center bearing, there should be no movement. Unfortunitly i thnk he has TB, and needs a new Viscous soupling. Check your tires make sure they are all inflated and match first, as this can cause torque bind too. nipper