nipper

the older subaru section loves to use DAWN dishwashing liquid. nipper

higher the rpms, more gas you suck down. Shift as low as possible without lugging the engine for better gas mileage. Have you had the car checked for codes. Usually idle is the IAC nipper

look what i found http://www.xcceleration.com/index.htm nipper

two ideas, cut a hole in the column cover to slightly sink the unit, or cut a notch in the cowl cover around the dash to flush mount it. this will now allow me to put in a 1996 spedometer to see if it works so i can put on the revers faces i have. The scangauge sped was off by 1 mph but on the nose for everything else. nipper

now now no we werent, anr the other post with 420 in it was referncing oregeno nipper

i need to do a full engineering study, may take a year or more, its called life testing. nipper

silly its in the picture 97 obw cant you tell ist a OB by the dash, sheesh:headbang: heheheheh nipper

Anyone have a stering column housing i can play with? nipper

I bought a scangauge II off of ebay. The second generation looks much more profesional then the first one. I removed the diagnostic plug from its docking space, and pluged the cord into the plug under the dash. I am still trying to figure out where to put it. I wish it was a bit smaller. It was real easy to set up and use. Inluded are two pictures that will give you a much better idea of size. It works well, i dont know what it looks like at night but there is lots of flexability in lighting choices It did tell me i need a tuneup grrrr last picture shows where it may end up, though i may cut the trim to make it look more like it belongs there

Get the code read by autozone for now. The increase horsepower is in the valve train with variable valve timing, so not much you can do there. nipper

You can also be confusing a sloppy belt with a fully extended tensioner for piston slap. BTW did you replace the tensioner? nipper

the only nightmare stories i have heard are the SVX and the forester, the SVX seems to be universal problem, im not sure if the forester is a US problem or not. Leagcy bearings seem to be bullitproof, and are the general replacement used in imprezzas, foresters (i dont know about the SVX). nipper

Except that this is a fuel injected car, and the pumping the pedal doesnt have anything to do directly with the delivery of fuel into the enigine. In carberetored car by pumping the pedal you were forcing down the accelrator pump which squirted fuel into the carberator. This was a direct mechanical connection to the fuel system. Now the cable is connected to the TPS and the throttle valve. All you are doing is moving a air flap, the computer is deciding how much fuel the car gets, not your foot. You can still have air/fuel issues and by "pumping" (which comes from pumping the accelerator pump to get more fuel in the car) you are only getting more air in the engine. This works if the car is running too rich or is flodded, but in no way can you tell you have a working fuel pump by this method. Pulling a wrench since i was 5 with my father, there is no way you can tell that the fuel pump is working by the gas pedal. With a carb on occasion you could here the accelerator pump squirting, but that was only with the engine off, and you were squirting what was in the float bowl. You need air fuel and spark to run a car. You need the car, It has not been running for three days now. Take it to a shop for at least a diagnoses, otherwise i have a feeling this is going to be drawn out for over a week. otherwise we are just beating a dead horse. nipper

NOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooo *hides* its so much safer to talk politics, religon and the middle east then oil nipper

http://www.cars101.com i think says which ones are interference or not. nipper

http://www.aa1car.com/library/overheat.htm Hoses dont last forever, and are often the most forgotten thing to replace. A tired hose, is the most likely cause. Also check the flow through the raidator. If the radiator is clogged, the pump can be causing the hose to collpase sine it is being starved for coolant by a clogged radiator. nipper

why would you want to reduce free play? The free play is there for a reason, to allow of expansion of parts as they heat up . Motorcycles dont weigh as much as cars, so you can get away with it, but i still wouldnt recomend it at all. Being an automotive engineer, that free play is very important. You never over tighten bearings in the non awd cars because you need that free play. The same is true for what you want to do. Removing that free play will be in essence the same thing as over tightnening the bearings, and you will greatly reduce the bearing life. You have bearings that last a long long time, why on earth would you want to do something that is not even done in racing circles, let alone anywhere else? nipper

is it white? nipper

I woulld buy any 2.5L in a heartbeat. in fact i have. i like the torquyness of the engine. Also i would rather buy a car that if it is going to have a problem, is very well documented, as opposed to a mystery problem no one can solve. nipper

15 % is the max educated guess of the entire production run of dohc engines had a problem. As the cars get older, alot of them have been replaced. any car aproaching or over 100,000 miles can have a HG blow at any time, especially aluminum engines. The only way to avoid this is to buy a 1960's cast iron block and head engine. ALso 99% of the time once they are fixed they are fixed. Personally considering the car is bullit proof otherwise for that year, i think its a non issue. i can point to toyotas hondas and others with HG issues (dont even get me started on GM). The real issue is the way subaru has handled the problem, not that they fail. They obviously learned customer relations from GM and not toyota. Buy the car use with both eyes open. Its not a good negotiating point, aside from asking if it had the work done. i would be more concerned about timing belts as the odds are far greater if they arent maintained ugly things can happen. nipper

If we are going to get this thing started, you do know that there are two power inputs to the ecu? one that goes through the main relay, the other is through the ignition switch. niper

the fuel pump relayis controled by the ecu, and the fuel pump hot comes from the main fuse box to the relay load side to the pump. The wiring diagram shows the coil side of the realy getting power from the ig switch, to the relay, then grounds through the ecu. The same wire before the relay goes to the ignition coil. Unplug the ignition coil connector and try it again. nipper

Sounds like your IAC motor is either dirty or tired. beleive it or not they are all related. nipper

i had a 89 GL, it gave up the ghost at 230,000 miles (rust). i purchased it at 80,000 miles. The car only had one clucth replaced, the usual timing belts, radiator, altenator, cv joints, and the ignitor and a cat. Otherwise not a single thing was touched. i miss the car with the D/R my 1997 OBW from the original owner (185,000), only had a timing belt and usual suspects replaced by the original owner, and the PS pump. i rebuilt the AWD unit. Not a single electronic item has been touched, and it still passes emissions. nipper

well gee, either oregeno or prestone nipper