nipper

actually ive seen them use bondo too, and bondo is easier to shape, i may go that route nipper

maybe i should have used the word, beat. i dont know if subarus that are well maintained ever get tired, but compression that low is a tired engine. i know its rare for the bottom end ot og bad, but adding up all the symptons, sounds like its had a rough life. Good luck. nipper

that will do it. What finally killed my GL was frame rot, where the frame alignment (or lack there of) kept pulling axles out. nipper

a clutch can last 60,000 miles, can last till 200,000 miles, it really depends upon the driver and the driving conditions. On my gl i got 140,000 out of the original clutch. You need a clutch, its starting to slip. Also replace the clutch cable, as they seem to go about 1000 miles after the clutch is replaed (murphies law). There is no recomneded interval for replacing a clutch, you replace it when it starts to slip. nipper

the new boot tearing, are you sure you got the right axle for your car. i went through this with my gl, was eating axles, couldnt figure out why. i finally took the car to subaru and they put the proper axle on the car, and the axle then laster another 100,000 miles. The shop that did the repiar did not realize that there was 4 axles for the car, and kept putting on the wrong one 5 times. As far as the fire grease + cat = fire. nipper

no the belts wouldnt help. Your car has a V style belt, where the 2nd gen (maybe the first too not sure) have a flat belt. nipper

cool, i was actually going to mount 2" gauges there and make a new panel for that pocket. Since i no longer need a vac gauge, would like to do an oil pres and tranny temp, but thats got to wait untill my back is better. i see your car is dirty nipper

Just seeing if the belt moves does not mean it hasnt jumped time. "broke" is a generic term for a slipped timing belt, since if it has slipped it needs to be replaced. The timing marks have to be checked to make sure everything is still in time. nipper

tell her in the long fun your better off, as the car may throw a rod otherside, especially after putting all that work into it, how many miles on this puppy?

can i see a better pic of the console, i want to see what you did there. nipper

RMS? i would let that go, just do the front main seal, unless of course you have a leak. If you are doing the rear main, there is some sort of vent cover back there, that if it is pl;astic should be replaced with a metal one. But the rear main seal is overkill otherwise. nipper

Why must you give me bad news? a wet test is the same as a dry but you squirt oil in the ctylinders first. Low oil pressure is not necassarly a bad oil pump, but bad bearings. This engine is very tired. nipper

i hate to tell you this, but you have a tired engine. 100 psi is low, ive seen lower. a wet/dry test would tell us it its rings vs valves, but i think the point may be moot. engine compression should be 120 minimum, with 160 prefered, and no more then 10% variance betrween cylinders. Now it is possible your timing belt jumped and that would explaine the 100, but that wont explaine zero. nipper

can i see a total dashboard pic? i stiill want an oil pressure and tranny temp gauge. Scangauge II its just a setting you have to change, and they state that it is specifically for soobies, just the punch of a few buttons. nipper

Actually we all speak from expierence, that the cam seals WILL leak before you need another timing belt, its almost 100% assured. ALso another popular one is the main seal, and water pump will usually go some place around 150-160, not to mention usually in winter. And there is no such thing as too much PM in an area where you have to dig into the engine. nipper

i never heard of them. i know consumer reports worships all things honda nipper

The oil pumps i generally suggest replacing at 210,000 miles. The oil pump can come out witout distrubing the waterpump. nipper

what are you talking about, three out fo four should psi? what DOES that mean. That makes no sense. What numbers did you get? Man,we try to help you but you dont tell us what you got, not to mention that scentence just does NOT make sense. We dont speak gibberish, and cant help with no information. We need to know the numbers Did you also do a wet test? What were those numbers? nipper

actually, give subaru a shot, as you may be nicely surprised. Also this will give you a baseline. https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html nipper

im not going to help as im of the reseal it group. The next seal is not going to last till 210,000 miles. Thats alot to ask. And as long as oyu are there you do the main cam oil selas and water pump. That way you dont have to stick your head in there again for another 105,000 miles. Closely inspect the tensioner. nipper

any codes? also when was the last time you had the AC checked with gauges. The idle air control motor allows more air into the engine at idle to compensate for load and altitude amoung other things. Thats why i think it is all related. nipper

http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive95-97.html 1996 the first real outback. nipper

Jamie rocks:banana: the guys on the subaru list have nothing nice to say about subaru parts for you nipper

http://www.cars101.com will give you the HP and torque numbers. Just keep away from the automatics in those years, as they are gutless. nipper

wow we killed two subaru virgins with one post . i often wondered why they do that, it must be some european regulation, as porshe vw and some others dont have an indictaor lite either. nipper