nipper

my 1997 cant, nor my 1998 nipper

bendex, wagner, nipper (not nipper pads) why not go OE

i almost forgot, there are also universal freezeout plugs, which almost look like an old screw type rubber cork nipper

i think you found it. Is the cold air intake onwe of those never replace filters? if it is it can be dumping a fine oil mist on the intake senor. Those aftermarket units can cause all sorts of problems. Have you replaced the PCV valve with a subaru part? IAC motor can be picking up oil from the pcv circuit. 1 qt 1500 miles isnt exaclty eating oil, check to make sure the engine isnt leaking any oil. DO you have a haynes manual? nipper

what he said. The front o2 sensor has to be OE, the rear can be generic. nipper

just because its an interference motor doesnt mean you cant get lucky once in a while. the timing belkt could have "borke" on the highway, driveway, or after he shut off the car. Also what some people call break (including mechanics) is just a jumped timing belt. If the car runs fine and has some mileage on it after the repair, go for it. nipper

They been like that for years now, ever since cars got more air tight. i hate it when im stuck behind a truck and the defrosters are on, cant turn to recirc. nipper

possible to see a pic of it? nipper

maybe we need to rename it EE85 so the search can find it nipper

there is nothing for the front bumper, that is why they sell bumper skins. best bet is to go to a junkyard. nipper

ok this is getting to be the third most coomon thing i respond to on the net. The answer is NO dont do it. The website is basically not completly true, and YOU are the one that gets stuck with a huge repair bill. This has been discused before on here, but due to the search engine not likeing three letters, i cant dig it up. Do a google on e85 conversions. 1- the fuel tank and lines have to be cleaned as e85 is a powerful solvent. 2- Larger injectors are required 3- The ECU needs to be reprogramed to get optimal running 4- the rubber and plastic in the fuel system must be compatable with e85 fuel, not just gasahol. 5- ethanol gets 30-40% LESS mileage then gasoline This box is the same thing that is being offered for cars that are made in brazil that are sold here. It is a plug in and does not address any of the mechanical limitations. Also with the lower milage there is no cost benefit to a conversion. Also in the US e85 right now is a corn product. Corn in itslef is a HUGE consumer of fuel (fertilizer comes from fuel). E85 uses a huge amount of water to be produced. If it was made from sugar or suagr beet like brazil, this would be a differnt story. http://www.ksgrains.com/ethanol/regconvert.html http://cartalk.com/board/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=348586&Main=348578 http://www.e85fuel.com/e85101/faqs/conversion.php if you want a flex fuel vehical your best bet is to go out and by one. nipper

EEEEKKKK well looks like you may have a little work to do. First off, get yourself a haynes manual and forget your freind for a while. The fuel pump does NOT click, it will hum. i hate to say it but your freind doesnt know a thing and should be kept far away from your car. First thing to do is get the HAYNES manual. Then we can check the fuel pump (pictures help alot) to make sure its getting power. It can be the timing belt or the fuel pump or some other things, but get the manual first. He should have been able to diagnose either one fairly easily. How mechanical are you. nipper

all subarus are 105,000 miles on the timing belt. i am shocked they didnt sugest a blinker fluid flush. I would go someplace else as personally. Here is what they should be doing http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html nipper

WASTE GATE! thats the thingy i couldnt remember nipper

good questions. When was the last timing belt changed ? nipper

No one has mentioned vin numbers before. They just put the additive in and seem to be covered. Also if you stand your ground and make a stink, you usually get it covered. Some dealers are better at taking the job on then others (i dont mean quality of work). Seems a bit odd but been a few weeks since a HG issue has come up. nipper

BF goodrichs cost me around 60 per and is a good all around tire. They arent too expensive, and give good performance if you keep the tire. Also since they are a name brand no one is going to accuse you of putting garbage tires on the car. nipper

do you have a speed shop? they can help you out. Also if you can actually measure the plug, that would help alot too. You may have to try the chains, stranger things have been known to Happen, if you have a pep boys, go to them last (sorry they make me break out in a rash). I am a huge supporter of mom and pop stores. Ask your mechanic where he gets his auto parts, as that should be a non chain store, or at least one that he trusts. nipper

Rings usually get stuck from sitting for a long time, not during operation. something does not sound good http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/motor_oil_consumption.htm Tapered and Out-of-Round Cylinders In slightly tapered and out-of-round cylinders, the oil can be controlled by the pistons and rings. However, with increased taper and out-of-roundness, satisfactory oil control becomes more difficult to maintain. This is due to a combination of many factors. The increased piston clearances permit the pistons to rock in the worn cylinders. While tilted momentarily, an abnormally large volume of oil is permitted to enter on one side of the piston. The rings, also tilted in the cylinder, permit oil to enter on one side. Upon reversal of the piston on each stroke, some of this oil is passed into the combustion chamber. For each revolution of the crankshaft, the pistons make two strokes - one up and one down. When an engine is running at 3000 R.P.M. (approximately 60 miles per hour) the rings in tapered and out-of-round cylinders are changing their size and shape 6000 times per minute. Consequently, at high speeds, the rings may not have time to conform perfectly to all worn parts of the cylinders on every stroke. Whenever this occurs, the engine consumes higher amounts of oil due to what is commonly referred to as oil pumping. Distorted Cylinders Cylinders which are distorted so that they are out of shape - not from wear, as described under "Tapered and Out-of-Round Cylinders", but from other causes, such as unequal heat distribution or unequal tightening of cylinder head bolts - present a surface which the rings may not be able to follow completely. In this case, there may be areas where the rings will not remove all of the excess oil. When combustion takes place, this oil will be burned and cause high oil consumption. Clogged "PCV" Valve The main purpose of the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is to recirculate blow-by gases back from the crankcase area through the engine to consume unburned hydrocarbons. Blowby is a mixture of air, gasoline and combustion gases forced past the rings on the combustion stroke. The PCV system usually has a tube leading from the crankcase to the carburetor or intake manifold. Vacuum within the engine intake manifold pulls blowby gases out of the crankcase into the combustion chamber along with the regular intake of air and fuel. A valve can become clogged with sludge and varnish deposits and trap blowby gases in the crankcase. This degrades the oil, promoting additional formation of deposit material. If left uncorrected, the result is plugged oil rings, oil consumption, rapid ring wear due to sludge buildup, ruptured gaskets and seals due to crankcase pressurization, oil thrown out around the filler cap and consequent rough engine operation. Worn Ring Grooves For piston rings to form a good seal, the sides of the ring grooves must be true and flat - not flared or shouldered - and the rings must have the correct side clearance in the grooves. Normally, automotive ring groove side clearance should not exceed .002-.004. As the pistons move up and down, the rings must seat on the sides of the grooves in very much the same way that valves must seat to prevent leakage. New rings in tapered or irregular grooves will not seat properly and, consequently, oil will pass around behind the rings into the combustion chamber. Worn grooves are usually flared or tapered causing increased side clearances which permit more than the normal amount of oil to pass the rings into the combustion chamber. Excessive side clearances also create a pounding effect by the rings on the sides of the piston grooves. This promotes piston groove wear and, if the condition is not corrected, breakage of rings lands may occur. Cracked or Broken Ring Lands Cracked or broken ring lands prevent the rings from seating completely on their sides and cause oil pumping by a process similar to that described above in "Tapered and Out-of-Round Cylinders". In addition to this, they also lead to serious damage of the cylinders as well as complete destruction of the pistons and rings. Cracked or broken ring lands cannot be corrected by any means other than piston replacement and this should be done as soon as there is the slightest indication of a crack. Worn Valve Stems and Guides When wear has taken place on valve stems and valve guides, the vacuum in the intake manifold will draw oil and oil vapor between the intake valve stems and guides, into the intake manifold and then into the cylinder where it will be burned. If this condition is not corrected when new piston rings are installed, an engine is likely to use more oil than it did before because the new piston rings will increase the vacuum in the intake manifold. When gum or deposits on the valve stems are removed - a procedure recommended when overhauling an engine - the seal previously formed will be removed and leakage will be more pronounced. This is particularly true on overhead valve engines where loss of oil may occur on the exhaust valves as well as on the intake valves. High oil consumption caused by too much valve guide clearance can frequently be cured by reaming or nerraling the valve stem. In some cases new valves may also be required. Use of a permanently bonded valve stem seal will give added insurance against oil leakage on complete engine overhauls or on valve jobs. Worn or Broken Piston Rings When piston rings are broken or are worn to such an extent that the correct tension and clearances are not maintained, they will allow oil to be drawn into the combustion chamber on the intake stroke and hot gases of combustion to be blown down the cylinder past the piston on the power stroke. Both of these actions will result in burning and carboning of the oil on the cylinders, pistons and rings. Broken rings are especially damaging because their loose pieces with jagged ends are likely to cut into the sides of the piston grooves. This causes land breakage which results in the complete destruction of the piston assembly. Instead of reinstalling worn rings during engine overhaul, it is always advisable to replace them. New rings have quick-seating surfaces which enable the rings to control oil instantly, unlike rings which have been used in the past. Used rings, even those that have only slightly worn will still have polished surfaces that will not seat-in properly and will lead to excessive oil consumption. Pistons Rings Stuck in Grooves Obviously, oil cannot be controlled by piston rings which are stuck in their grooves, so every effort should be made to prevent rings from becoming stuck. First, they should be installed with sufficient side clearance to enable them to remain free while the engine is working under load at normal operating temperatures. Second, every precaution should be taken at the time of assembly to see that all parts of the engine are clean of any dirt particles which might cause the rings to stick. Third, a good grade of oil should be used to lessen the possibility of carbon or varnish. Fourth, the oil should be kept clean by regularly scheduled oil changes and proper care of the oil filter. Fifth, every precaution should be taken to keep the engine from becoming overheated from any cause. there are even uglier resons on that site, but since you dont have any complaints we can rule those out for now. nipper

subaru i would try, but i know a GOOD autoparts store (not a chain) will have a variety of them and should have a book to match them up. It's been a while since ive had to replace them, but i found both sources good. nipper

SVX was a special design, and they had an entirely different problem. What would happen with the svx is that the lock up torque converter material was inferior (amoung other things). That material would flake off and clog the cooler. A flush would get rid of the suspended and clogged material, but at the same time would losen up even more material, as some of that varnish was keeping it glued down (a no win situation). They also had problems with clutch band, and inferior AWD clutch pack. I really dont know what subaru was thinking when they made that tranny. One of the fixes is to put a legacy tranny in a svx, now why didnt they do that to begin with. nipper

the only thing i can think if is changing the vlave that regulates the turbo to one that is adjustable (i just blanked on the name). The newer turbos are pretty much maxed out design wise as far as plumbing. A larger turbo will ttake longer to spin up and increase turbo lag. a smaller turbo has a quicker response. Maybe a bigger intercooler, or if your really twisted two turbos. There may be other tweaks available, but is this car still under warrenty? nipper

The backfire is what has me concerned that it is more of a mechanical issue. I am an automotive engineer, and over the years I've learned never say never. Again I said jump time, I didnt say broken. Things wear out. Also before the the site cut me off (anyone else having site problems) i was going to add check the distrubitor. Simpliest thing to do is get a timing light and make sure the timing is correct. After that he can hunt down the laundry list of things, including a bad tank of gas or water in the tank. Say when was the last time the poster got gas and where did he get it. The car is awfully young by subaru standards to have a internal mechanical issue (but it does happen). nipper

but it was a pretty crown..... nipper

see what happens when you sit on your but all day recovering (way to slowly) from surgery, is sucks. nipper