nipper

makes perfect sense. i just couldnt figure out the cause and effect. nipper

your not allowed to play with tools anymore. nipper

Damn its raining torque bind and tranny problems... NO ONE PARK NEAR MY CAR! i dont want it catching whats going around Richard whats your email, i have some info for you nipper

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=487134#post487134 look here its tells you how to test the duty c nipper

well indirectly its a big deal. One would like to know when one has low oil pressure. the ecu really could care less if the engine seizes from lack of oil nipper

now now be nice, an hour glass will do nipper

nope. Go to an autzone and have someone read the codes for free nipper

cause we said so how good are you with electrical testing? nipper

yes explain further nipper

yuppers nipper

that i dont know. nipper

see mountainbiker's post nipper

there is a cable operated door that works the temp. If you look under your glove box towards the center of the car. It is the only cable there. It attaches to a lever. once you find it move your temp setting. if the nothing moves, then the prblem is at the temp control. If the housing moves and cable doesnt, the clip may be broken. You can manually adjust the temp by moving this lever. nipper

how do you know its functioning properly. It can be stuck open, shorted, or failed. We know its not failed. We dont know about the others i can send you something but i need your email nipper

one foot note. the duty c solenoid has to be able to be powered to turn off the AWD. Thats why you cant shut off the awd, the solenoid is burned out. nipper

i hope you read my revised post

have him change it again, as that can cure torque bind 90% of the time, if that is what it is. nipper

you bought time. The fact that you grind still is not a good thing. Start saving money. Torque bind is very easy to tell. you make a tight turn both forward and reverse, the car should be able to do it without you pushing the pedal, or lightly pushing it. If the TB is heavy, the car wont go without alot of pressure on the gas pedal. Also the car will sort of lurch while making that turn. nipper

( i do not mean this to sound hostile, i re read it and it did so i changed it a bit) First off i suggested if hes been driving the car like this the damage has been done. The plates get chewed up very quickly when the duty c solenoid fails. Secondly he said that hes not very good with transmissions, and from the sounds of it hes not equiped to do it. Not everyone has a garage or a driveway (i know i dont). When you have heavy torque bind, like i did, and like he does, it means the clutches are gone. If it was light TB then yes by all means just replace the solenoid and see what happens. He also said the fuse is NOT working. The light is on a seperate circuit from the duty c solenoid. If the light was on the same circuit the FWD light would be flashing with the duty cycle of the solenoid. The temp light is blinking 16 times at startup indicating a electrical fault (in this case the duty c solenoid) has failed. He can pull the codes, but the dealership or shop wil do that for him as part of the diagnoses. Also a dealership wont replace the clutches if they arent needed (assuming you found a reliable one). nipper

get under the car and shake the driveshaft you have universal joints down there, plus a bearing and a bearing bushing. nipper

ive posted my exact cost here on another thread. Mine was 875.00 plus 95 for a busted tranny mount. It took a week as they had to measure the plates then get the parts. 1997 obw. i am very happy with the work. nipper

once the solenoids are freid a flush is a waste of money. That is sort of like chaning the lightbulb because there is a blackout. nipper

at that low mileage its safe to just rebuild the AWD unit. nipper

PS http://www.se-r.net/engine/platinum_copper_ngk.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=518633 http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2003-2004-mustang-cobra/brusk-plug-spark-pattern-picture-14475-print.html (brings up an excellant photoshop point) once the spark jumps to a ground, its jumped. Thst it, you wont get a multiple path of current. i looked everythwere for a valid test for these things, i cant find one, so im calling it snake oil. nipper

looking at the charts, i dont see much of an increase. Also word to the wise, unless they specify the conditions and engines, fuel and ambient (temp humidity barometer) the test is not valid. Also it takes more thenone test to determine an increase. There is also a correction factor that is required to compensate for change in weather conditions from run to run. Also with such limited increase in performance, if it is a real increase, what works on car a may not work on car b. Also if it was a tue valid test they wuld stae the location of the test, and the calibration date of the dyno, and the brand of dyno. Ive seen this all stated in other performance magazines when they do tests. You need a certin level of increase to get out the "error" zone to make it valid. If i remeber correctly they were sold here as for afew years as oil burning plugs. If you had a tired engine that burned oil, they wouldnt foul (and they worked well that way). Be very leary of dyno tests without the proper given info, otherwise they are just selling snake oil. nipper