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Everything posted by nipper
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your duty c solenoid id fried. Your tearing up your transmission. The flashing light is telling you there is an electrical fault in the transmission ( a dead duty c solenoid). You either need to replace the tranny or repair the awd unit (dealer price NY 875.00). i had the same thing 2 weeks ago. With any luck yuour awd clutches are ok, but if youve driven the car any distance on old clutch plates like this i doubt it. nipper i hate giving bad news
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ive explained this a few times. Octane has to do autoignition http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question90.htm . Now ping from too hot a plug is not autoignition, since the plug is setting off the charge. A spark plug has a heat range, and this heat range refers too directly how much heat a spark plug retains. You dont need a an electric spark to set the mix on fire, a hot spot will do. When its a plug that sets it off due to heat and not a spark, its ping. Octane can help with this, but since its not ignition form compression, it wont really help all that much. nipper
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Racks tend to whow it in the morning, be very hard to turn, but once everything warms up its fine. They also show thier ugly heads in winter. The "to the point of nearly killing the engine" has me puzzled. Subaru racks are fairly bullit proof, but its a possability. i want to see the fanbelt test. nipper
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http://www.troubleshooters.com/tpromag/200210/200210.htm Read that and scroll down to the pics of a clogged raditaor. Due to lost flow, not as much water is cooling as with full flow, therefore you wont have equilibrium. In actuality water in the engine is flowing at a high rate of speed, so the temps feel equal. If one side is clogged, the het will build up on one side since the heat isnt disipating, so the output water is getting cooled more then usual. The human hand has a problem telling 180 degrees from 165degrees (hot is hot), so in a way your correct. BUt you can easily tell 180 from 120. http://www.cartalk.com/content/features/Summer-Driving-Tips/cooling-system.html http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14264/css/14264_230.htm http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1/bl719.htm Since there are no real ways to test that i am comfortable to suggest to you, we rule everything else out. The #1 reason for running hot at speed is a clogged radiator (or falling apart radiator). If you have an infa red thermometer then yes you can test. I am NOT going to suggest to anyone to feel a hot raditor where electric fans are. im not up to snuff today so i hope that helps. nipper
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your oout of my realem. Of course there is always the possability of testing it and replacing it, but that may be a little bizzare. The wiring diagram shows three terminals, It interfaces with the the controller, the recirc door, and the main ac switch. test it first, there is no logic in this sircuit so its prbbly an on off switch unless the logic is built into the sensor itself. nipper
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This sounds too weird. Remove the PS belt and repeat the manuver, i have the feeling he will get the same thing again, then its not a PS prblem. The WORST thing that can happen is that the the PS pump seizes and the belt screams like a banshee, it should not stall the car. This is almost sounding like Torque bind. Does the tach dip below 500 rpm when hes baking out with the PS connected? nipper
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it is shown in the Haynes Manual as bing in the evaporator box, with an electrical plug on the side. What do you mean by your ac system checked out fine. What are the pressures. Is the evaporator clear of crud? is the condenscer clear of crud. Are the cooling fans operating, and is the cars temp gauge in the middle. Also there is the expansion valve that can affect cooling also. nipper
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the cherokee has a transfer case with many more parts inside it. These parts creat alot of drag. There are internal parts that stop spiing whn you are in 2wd, hence the gain. Also the case is desighned to have all the internal parts stop spinning for better gas mileage. in the subaru its not so much the 10%, since thats not totally true. It consantly varies between 10%-50% in all conditions, and in the manual its 0% or 50%. Just in the automatic the parts are along the driveline so there is no mass to change direction. in the manaul you cant really do anything about it, as there are a lot of parts with forces changing direction, but since they are all built into the tranny, you cant disconnect them. nipper nipper