nipper

my book says under the intake manifold runner on the left rear of the engine. Do a search here on knock sensor and you may find a better desription or picture. You dont have to remove the manifold to repalce it, i think its fairly easy. nipper

if it was me, i would try the knock sensor first. All the dealer will do is pull the codes and tell you what you already know. You should be bale to get cheaper prices, around 60.00 if you go to one of the suppliers recomended here...www.SubaruGenuineParts.com toll free: 800.962.0822 mention this site and see if they can do you better

There are also some coil tests you can do, but i dont know if the values from a 98 will carry over to 2001... nipper

Sparkplugs do have crush washers, and should be checked if you dont think you put them in tight enough. Inspect the coil towers for cracks and clean them of dirt. In the early evening spray the coil with water (use a spray bottle) and look for sparks. A bad knock sensor may cause the codes your seing (fault codes are like 6 degrees of seperation). a faulty knock sensor can be sending the wrong signal, retarding the ignition so much that it is read as a misfire, and the o2 sensor picking up bad emissions, so the o2 sensor thinks its out of range (just a theory people). A knock sensor is a piezo-quartz sensor. It produces an AC signal and the ECU interpits that signal, and changes the spark timing as it seems fit. Aparently there is no min/max setting in the ECU code, so sometimes it can make the car run really odd if it is going bad. All you can do is look at the sensor, see if it is cracked, and check to see if it shorted to ground. It is inexpensive enough to replace just-because. nipper

with that milage the 02 sensor makes sense. Misfire can be loose connections on the fuel injectors. Also its interesting since it is a pair are on the same ignition coil. Both cylinders fire at the same times, its known as a waist spark system. Out of curiosity, when you did the HG, did you fully remove the spark plug wires? How old are the spark plug wires? Check the wirining and make sure you did not accidently upset a connection. Inspect the knock sensor and look for cracks. nipper

You can get them from any auto parts store, youi may have to order it. It is real easy, you dont have to open up the brake system. Disconnect the vac hose, unbolt the master cylinder. Under the dash remove the cotter pin and return spring, and remove the two bolts. measure the distance on the old booster from the body to the clevis hole, and make sure you set the new booster to that length. nipper

Sounds like the ALT drive belt. SPray the blets with a hose and see if the noise goes away (water acts as a lubricant). If the belts were new they may be glazed by now. you can try belt dressing but that is only temproary. Take the belt off and make sure the drive pullies are clean and free of rust and gunk, use some steel wool then see what happens. You have ruled out AC and PS by your descriptions.

not without a scope. If the car dies and stays dead, check for spark, no spark, then can be the ignitor. Go to a junkyard and pull an ingnitor and swap it, see what hapens? nipper

one tooth off on the cam and it wont run, one tooth off on the crank and it will. usually the crank is the one to get right all the time, but stuff happens. nipper

hehe slow day there too? the cuts diagnal to the belt make perfect snese ona true serptine belt that uses both side to drive accessories. i often question minor dyno gains unless i know they were done in lab conditions, which 90% of the time they arent. And like you said its just a belt. i can't even remeber the last time i had to change a belt on a car when i wasnt chainging timing belts (then i change the drive belts too) nipper

http://www.goodyearbeltsandhose.com/cars/gatopoly.html is that it? looks like a normal serpitine belt

besy i can guess without seeing the belts for myself is that they make little pressure points that can give a little more grip to a glazed pully nipper

well the 10.00 question is why was the fluid low. Its a closed system and doesnt evaporate. And make sure the air freshner is properly calibrated nipper

you can always shift between N-D (same with R-N, but have to press it to go from D - R) without pressing the button. Every car that was an automatic i have ever driven (i was born in 61) you dont need too. You also dont need the button upshifting from 1 to 2 2 to 3 3 to drive. the car should not slide into Neutral by itself. The shifter mechanisim sounds like its broken. Whatever method is used to make internal resistance inside the shifter is not working (or she keeps hitting it with her hand). nipper

show off .... The best i ever got in my 2.2 , but i wasnt driving. My freind who was a right leg amputee did it on two consecutive tanks of gas. nipper

A subary brake system is just a plain ordinary brake system. You do not need a specialist to look at it. And i would still replace all the brake lines, but hey what do i know im only an automotive engineering technician. The 3/4 to the floor and spongy- this would tell me the diphram is not holding a vacum and the booster is shot. Since this is the net and i cant see the car myself, i would rebuild the brake system. you pretty much have already. replace the hoses, replace the booster. Replace the brake fluid. Again what method are you using to bleed the brakes. Dont reuse the brake fluid, always use fresh, as the fluid just bled out of the system would be airated. One more question, is this an 88 (almost 20 year old car, brake system is due for a rebuild, or a 98). nipper nipper

thats how i do it, the other method suggests putting the front of the car on ramps to bleed it. nipper

The brake booster test that i posted is one way you test the booster, the second and not really definitive is using a hand held vacume pump to make sure the booster holds vaccum nipper

actually DONT just add brake fluid. Check your brake pads first. As the pads wear, ther fluid level drops. Once the pads wear x amount, the light will go on. nipper

Thats back when transmissions had rear pumps, they quickly disapeared with the 73 fuel crises as they were deemed extra weight and redundant. Electric starters were very dependable by the early 60's so their days were numbered. I had a 69 rambler automatic you can push start, but thats over 30 years ago. The rear pump would allow for pressure to be built up so that the clutchs/bands could apply pressure where they had to. Now you get alot of spining parts with a fluid thats not being cooled and can fry the clutches, or over heat the tranny fluid to the point that its useless and the firsdt time you drive a car the car its over. My how i miss a 350.00 tranny rebuild job, guess im showing my age nipper nipper

If its stil under warrenty don't even mess with it, just take it to the dealer nipper

Guess what... if one brake line blew, what makes you think the other brake lines are in any better condition. Brakelines can collapse internally and you would never know it. Replace all the brake lines. inspect all the steel lines for rust. Bleed the enitre system and get back to us. What procedure are you using to bleed the brakes? Did you ever test the booster? Is this a new Master Cylinder ? nipper

The simple act of removing and reinstalling an electrical connection can clean off any corrision that is giving you electrcial issues. You cant always see the corrosion. nipper

Drool:clap: nipper

It really should not, as it is a completly independent system completly at the drivers control. If the CEL went out after the system got charged then i would research it a bit. I would try to pull the codes. nipper