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Everything posted by nipper
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If it is central to the car, it sounds like it MAY be the center universal joint, ot carier bearing. If its the center Universal, do NOT get a price from the dealer, unless you have your heart specialist with you. The cneter universal is not servicable, BUT it is. You need to find a driveshaft shop to send it to and they will rebuild it. When I had my 1988 GL done, and they used a ford ranger universal. Even if you have to ship it it will still be cheaper then then the sooby part. From what i understand you still have to buy the entire driveshaft, i could be wrong, but sooby doesnt change things much in the rear drivetrain nipper
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that was going to be my first suggestion. Radiaotrs clog with age, especially if no one has been changing the coolant every two years. it can still be a clogged radiator and the fans cycling cnat keep up with the heat load. nipper
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Replace the sensor. Since you wired in at the sensor, you know the fans and relays work. Your sensor is dead. nipper
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if your spedo is working, your vss is working. Now its possible that there is noise on the line, as i dont know hoe senstaive the Cruise puter is as opposed to the spedo computer. Check your brake switche first, much cheaper then a vss, or a module. Also may pay to go to a scrap yard and pull a few modules and see if they fix the problem. If the actuator is vacume operated (this is a general statement) make sure it holds a vaccum, if its electronic, not much you can do to test it. nipper
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The purpose of the catallytic converter link was to show that normally almost all the fuel (and in a brand new engine today) all the fuel is burned. If we truly were not burning all the fuel, catalytic converters would run hot, as they are designed to handle a very small amount of unburned hydrocarbons. It also explains the heart of the combustion process, the stochiometric ratio, which seems to be getting lost in all this. An engine is an amazing thing. It is required to run perfectly at all loads and speeds for emissions and fuel economy. Some people's driving habits may actually be affected by the acetone, while others may not. i sometimes have a hard tiome explaing these things when its posts, instead of converstaions. i dont buy the surface tension arguments. What everone is trying to do is add o2 for a more effecient burn. Unfortunitly (or thankfully) i am not a chemist. If it works for you, thats fine. If it doesnt work for you, thats fine too. Gas milage and effecincy tends to go down as a car ages. i dont know if anyone has seen a gas milage increase buy replacing fuel injectors that had high milage on them. The acetone may be aiding in the chemical process of combustion, since an older fuel injector is no longer capable of atomizing fuel as well as it did when new. This less effecient atomization may not show up anywhere (emissions or codes), but can show up over time as a loss in performance or gas milage. It would be like filling a 55 gallon drum one trip at a time. Not so noticble day to day but compard to when the engine was new very noticable. The acetone having a much lower vapor pressure (the ability to evaporate) is somehow helping the fuel burn in an older engine. Just my thoughts. nipper
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http://www.pureenergysystems.com/news/2005/03/17/6900069_Acetone/ Surface tension presents an obstacle to vaporization. For instance the energy barrier from surface tension can sometimes force water to reach 300 degrees Fahrenheit before it vaporizes. Similarly with gasoline. http://www.industrialnewsupdate.com/news/oil-energy/archives/oil_energy_prices/index.php How it Works Complete vaporization of normal fuel is far from perfect in today's cars. A certain amount of fuel in most engines remains liquid in the hot chamber. In order to become a true gas and be fully combusted, fuel must undergo a phase change. Surface tension present an obstacle to vaporization. For instance the energy barrier from surface tension can sometimes force water to reach 300 degrees before it vaporizes. Similarly with gasoline. Acetone drastically reduces the surface tension. Most fuel molecules are sluggish with respect to their natural frequency. Acetone has an inherent molecular vibration that "stirs up" the fuel molecules, to break the surface tension. This results in a more complete vaporization with other factors remaining the same. More complete vaporization means less wasted fuel, hence the and on the down side http://www.ece.kettering.edu/news/archivedDetail.asp?storynum=406 http://www.hhydr.com/Acetone-in-gasoline-1299076.html The automotive engineer in me thinks it really has no effect on young engines where everything is perfect and in spec. On older engines it may make a difference, sinc they do start to get out of spec. new engines burn 100% of the fuel, otherwise we would all be failing emission tests. The catalytic converter: from http://www.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter.htm The Oxidization Catalyst The oxidation catalyst is the second stage of the catalytic converter. It reduces the unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide by burning (oxidizing) them over a platinum and palladium catalyst. This is why the cat can get red hot if to much unburned fuel goes through the exhaust system. It most likely works on high milage engines for the reasons staed before, wear and tear. Personally like all additives, they are un needed on engines with less then 80K on them, and over that, its like chicken soup, it couldnt hurt, just DO NOT use too much, remeber less is more . nipper
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TOrque bind on the automatic you have a 90% chance of curing, on the manual if you have torque bind your sunk. Make sure all tires match. GO drive some tight figure 8's and make sure they are smooth manuvers. Check the auto fluid make sure its not buurnt. On the manual start off from 3 or 4th gear from a dead stop. The car should stall if the clutch is good. Thats about it other then the usual oil leaks and cv joints. nipper
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need 1 new ring, Is there a simple way?
nipper replied to GREENSUBIE's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
do a compression test with all 4 plugs out, and all restrictions out of the intake system. Next squirt oil in all the cylinders and do the test. If the number go up its rings, no change its valves. if itd rings, rebuild the engine. Its rare to have a bad ring so its probably a valve burned. nipper -
I worked in the H2/fuel cell industry. You have a better chance of the president resigning then seeing H2 any time soon. a few h2 facts, its more expensive then gasoline. H2 has a dramtically shorter range then gasoline. H2 would come from reforming natural gas, so there really is no escape from petrochemicals. For anyone into reading dry goverment (UK) documents http://www.dft.gov.uk/stellent/groups/dft_roads/documents/page/dft_roads_024056-02.hcsp The most honest report on H2 i have seen. In the mean time, we just have to drive smarter. i still take comfort that my OBW gets better mileage then my neighbors 2 Excursions combined. Now keeping in mind that a car consumes about 135 cubic feet of air a minute at 2000 rpm ((1800cc displacement x revolutions)/2 revs per cycle ), your car wont even notice that little amount of H2 being introduced into the air stream. nipper
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How much are they asking for it. The valve cover gaskets can be done yourself, and they may even just be loose. More imporatnt question ... When was the timing belt/watermpump/tensioner/cam and main seals changed. Keep in mind your buying a used car over 100,000 miles on it. It will not be perfect. It wil need work sometimes in the first 3-6 months of ownership, be it tires, brakes or timing belt. Also there is a less then 15% chance it may need head gaskets in its future (someone is going to bring this up). Have your own mechnaic check the car out. Check the color and smell of the tranny fluid. Drive the car making a figure eight in parking lot, see if acts weird. Inspect all the fluids to make sure all the fluid is what it shold be. Check the raditor for any bubbles. Make sure the car brakes straight and tracks straight. You would do this with ane used car your about to buy. nipper
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Do you not have a boost gauge on this car? You need a combination boost/vacume gauge. The best way for you to save gas is to keep off the boost. hehe i have to giggle here, i'm sorry but somone with a twin turbo anything wanting to save gas is like a ferrari v-12 owner complaining about gas mileage. Don't mean to pick on you, but everytime those turbos kick in, you can kiss gas mileage goodbye. The other part of me REALLY wants to see a picture or three of this setup droool nipper
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Do you not have a boost gauge on this car? You need a combination boost/vacume gauge. The best way for you to save gas is to keep off the boost. hehe i have to giggle here, i'm sorry but somone with a twin turbo anything wanting to save gas is like a ferrari v-12 owner complaining about gas mileage. Don't mean to pick on you, but everytime those turbos kick in, you can kiss gas mileage goodbye. The other part of me REALLY wants to see a picture or three of this setup droool nipper