nipper

see thats what i dont get about all of a sudden the price rise due to 90/10 ethanol. It's been around since the late 80's then MBE came along, now back to ethanol. Arent monopolies grand. Im surprised that the price doesnt go up due to the increased gravitational pull by the moon during the day on the oil pumps. Or did i say too much? nipper

e10 cars have been required to be able to burn since then 1980's. Its diluted by the gasoline so its not that bad. To be on the safe side most rubber can withstand up to 20% of ethanol. And its chemistry, not one of my favorite subjects. less is more and too much eats things up. nipper

care to share the vin number, usually that has details in there about special packages. i too found the reference to the safari wheels, and how they are 8 spokes. and yes i was teasing still think thats pretty good graphics for someone to do (hehehe) nipper

hrmm i never thought of that. i was working under the theory that it worked before he had directly related things reparied, then they didnt work anymore, that the shop screwed up. But from what i see i think that his spedo is cable driven, not electronic. nipper

This has been popping up alot lately. E85's additional cost on the assembly line to any vehical is 200.00. e85 gives you 30% LESS fuel mileage. http://www.fueleconomy.org/feg/byfuel/FFV2002.shtml E85 has a lower specific heat, hence the lower gas mileage, and also may cause a comfort issue in winter. E85 all the rubber hoses and some plastic parts have to be changed. The fuel injectors need larger ports and the ECU neds to be re calibrated. The fuel system needs to be scrubbed clean or replaced, since e85 is a strong solvent and loves water. RIght now e85 is available at about 500 stations, supposedly will increase to 2500, but i doubt it. The pipeline owners refuse to let e85 be pumped since it loves water and eats standard rubber. the fuel has to be trucked. Also e85 is only about a dime cheaper then gasoline. Gasoline does many things beutifully which cant be replicated (yet). It is clean due to computers and refining methods. Easy to store and pump. Oil comes out of the ground fairly easily. the refining process once started does not use alot of energy, since the waste products of the refinng are used to process the raw product and power the refineries. E85 requires fuel (a still) to make it. People are working on biological ways to make ethanol, but they haven't hit the big time yet. Even with this, it still has to be trucked. It is going to be hard to convince people to have new pipelines in thier backyards next to the old ones, since many dont even know the old ones are already there. A TRUE carberator (no emission controls at all) can be re jetted to run on e85 or pure ethanol. This puts us back to pre 1973 vehicals. SOme cars can be converted, but that is because they have almost all the parts already from the factory http://xcelplus.com/e85/step1.htm . Its the same as the factory AC kits, all you needed was the compressor a few hoses and the control panel. From the ethanol people themselves http://www.iogen.ca/company/faq/index.html#Q19 Can I convert my car to run on E-85 fuel? It is too impractical and costly to do after-factory conversions of gasoline fueled vehicles to E-85 vehicles. Since the combustion of ethanol and gasoline is different, different engine electronic systems are required, and need to be installed at the time of manufacture. http://www.e85fuel.com/e85101/faqs/conversion.php The differences in fuel injector size, air-fuel ratio, PCM calibrations, material composition of the fuel lines, pumps and tanks are just a few of the components that contribute to making an E85 conversion extremely complex. Additionally, the production of vehicles by auto manufacturers that are capable of operating on unleaded gasoline or E85 (flexible fuel vehicles) at little or no additional cost over the gasoline only model, provide little incentive for a conversion company to undertake the very expensive and time consuming task of aftermarket certification. nipper

could be a hairline crack in a coil tower, but it works so drive it nipper

did you get new hubs or a new hub (or used) when you got the wheel bearings done? You can literally just wipe off the sensor to clean it. Its whats called a hall effect sensor. Every time a high point passes the sensor it makes a pulse. this pulse goes to the ABS puter. i do not know if you can see this pulse with an analog multimeter. Check for broken wires especially where the work has been done. If it worked before the work was done, and didnt after the work is done, i wouls suspect something happend at that point. nipper

if you dont know what your looking for, may be easier to take it back to who did the work. Otherwise get yourself the Haynes manual. the abs sensors are the only things around the wheels that have wires attached to them. Lok for any dangling wires, anything not connected. by any chnace did you get new hubs too? nipper

the fact the wheel bearings are shot wont affect them unless the wheels are falling off. You can clean the senosrs of dirt and other stuff by wiping them off. nipper

its coming from the charcoal canister. This can be caused by a bad purge valve that is stuck open. nipper

ABS- check the wheel speed sensors. One of them is not happy from the having the wheel bearings changed. May be bent or a broken or disconnected wire Spedo- if you have a cable drive, make sure the cable is not pinched or kinked. Makes sure the cable is tight. Cable may need lube, but you use it SPARINGLY and lubricate at the transmission. nipper

im convinced your making this up:clap: (cant find anything about it) nipper

got a pic of the complete car and the nose? nipper

1- no, and i would just remove the heads. There isnt enogh force there to damage the valves. Valve damage comes from hittin the pistons when the belt jumps or goes. 7- replace 8, where in heck did 8 come from? They will check the heads for latness and any cracks, and machine the surfaces. If you are going to have them do a valve job, they will do the lapping and grinding and stuff. They will not automatically do lapping. er um, what do you mean by pressure test? You said that you did not do a compression test on the car. A pressure check (that i know of) of the cylinder heads involves checking for cracks in the water jacket, and has nothing to do with the valves. The big mistake here was no compression test before taking things apart. me personally, on a sooby engine, i would have them do a valve job too. On a non sooby engine i would hesitate. Doing a valve job on a high mileage engine may raise the compression and cause the piston rings to leak and you get blow-by. Soobies are fairly robust and dont seem to be affected by this. i am sure somone else will chime in to agree or say im nits, but i would do the valve job. What caused you to do a HG job in the first place? nipper

i feel better that im not the only one to find it odd. Unless the hotter coil cleared the fouled plugs and that stoped the pinging. nipper

ah never heard it called that before nipper

i dont know what to tell you, if it was a US spec car i could help further. its possible what you think is the ecu temp sensor is the engine temp sensor. i also dont know if the older ECU will kill the engine with no temp input like the newer ones do. i'll see if i can dig up a US digram if that would help. What year is this engine. nipper

lambda? nipper

my OBW limited edition has wodd trim too. drop www.cars101.com an email, they will know. nipper

Neutral saftey switch is called an inhibitor swiatch and its located on the tranny. Usually multiple codes you look at them how do they relate to each other, you can usually figure out a chain. Here i dont even have a clue. The odds of BOTH vss sensors going bad at the same time are astronomical. i would check the harnesses to make sure the wires are ok. If one of your VSS were dead you would have no spedo and/or no awd, plus an angry flashing light someplace and weird shifting. I think you have a damaged harness. Also clear the codes, and with a reader on the codes shake the wiring harnesses and see if you get the code again. i wonder if your IAC (idle air control)is dirty. Thats fairly easy to clean. nipper

1- not sure what the problkem is. 2- when in doubt replace 3- as long as the coated with oil they will be fine. If you cleaned them wipe them with oil and put them in a bag. They should go back to their original locations. 4- When sanding anything on a machined surface, you go with the finest grit possible (higher number) and dont over sand. Sand by going around the surface 360 degrees. i dont really recall seeing this anywhere 5- book says 70-90 INCH pounds 6- haynes manual has a great pic of where to appy the sealant. They stress to NOT use too much. 7- when in doubt, replace it. Its buried and you dont want to do it again if you dont have too. hope this helps nipper

You need an O2 sensor, otherwise you are going to damage the cats (if you still have them) if not you are going to get really poor gas mileage. Without the o2 sensor you will stay in an open loop (limp mode). The o2 sensor is the nose of the fuel system. Some of the ecu jobs is to monitor things with coils to make sure they dont go open. The idle up solenoid is required for A/C. What are you going to use this for, it will help us with what to tell you. Also what have you decided to leave out. Tell me what you left out and i can tell you if it is in the loop or just a fine tuning element. nipper

huh? grr one feature here gets me in trouble, and thats the fact you loose some detail depnding upon the way you respond. and NO ONE touches my pain meds (even if they dont work anymore). Sure cut the thread so it looks like i cant do math BAD :-p (we know i can't type) and he still needs to replace the seals nipper

thanks nipper

no fair they get all the fun stuff nipper