Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

nipper

Members
  • Posts

    18629
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    25

Everything posted by nipper

  1. well he was on the correct side, but then its a really powerful slide, he pulled alot of g's nipper
  2. It is either a jumper under the dash, or some black magic with the key fob to set it. Let them show you how its done, then write down the procedure (if its black magic) in the owners manual. nipper
  3. Check tow things. Check the engine temp sensor for the ECU a,nd check the fan switch temp sensor. Fans can run all the time, as they tend to do with the AC on. DO NOT pull the fuses, otherwise you will have 200 lbs of scrap metal under the hood. Next time the CEL comes on and goes out, get the codes pulled and see if anything shows up. nipper
  4. I just re read your original post. How are you reving the engine to five grand? Are you seeing smoke out of the exhaust pipe or from around the car (typical of oil leaking on the pipes) My car 97OBW 184K smoked a little when i first got it, but the more i dorve it, it went away. Now it just smokes in winter when i first start it in the morning. nipper
  5. Well on ebay the car has been selling from 3500 to 4500 (for a low mileage car) and around 4100 in the New York State area. I would say yes, BUT i havent seen the car. Also the dealer is high on price, can be doen for a few hundred cheaper. Take the car for a test drive and go to a parking lot. Drive it in a tight circle. If you dont feel anything weird, then its a go nipper
  6. Two wires to the lighter itself. They dont have much slack on them thats the reason they fall off alot. Its a very easy job and self explaintory when you see the wires. One is black thats the ground goes on the outside of the lighter. The other wire goes to the center. it is possible the l;ighter is dead, and its easy to replace. nipper
  7. was just curious if somone overtightend a belt ....hrmmm... gives me an idea. Spray water on the belt and see if it quiets down. Also spray some wd40 on the shaft and see if it gets quiet nipper
  8. i have a maybe related question, why did you think the HG was bad? nipper
  9. how about a used pump? there is not much to test without a pressure gauge, and even then unless you have the specs, it wont mean anything. you can have a screaming pump and perfectly good pressure. You may have the pump bearing going from an over tightend belt. Ever had any work done to the front of the engine? nipper
  10. All 4 tires need to be the same size within 1/4 inch circumfrence. You can get the tires shaved at a better tire store to match. The automatic can take more distress then the manual, but it is already complaing (torque bind). All 4 tires need to match. What you will have to do is put in the FWD fuse under the hood and disable the AWD. If you drive a long time with mismatched tires you will destroy the awd clutches. ALso you will need a tranny flush once you get everything to match (at the latest). nipper
  11. First question, were you complaining about an oil leak? (never mind re read the post). He has to take the engine out to repalce the plate gasket. Its another oh 10 minutes worth of work per side to replace the valve cover gaskets) If you were asking if he should do the work, i would say NO! hes is over chargning you on that estimate, but its too late hes doing the work now. What were the other gaskets? Exhaust gaskets should be no extra labor. Valve cover gaskets they could maybe charge an hour minimum labor, but if he was a good guy he wouldnt charge anything. nipper
  12. im guessing its built into the pump. I am also guessing the pressure valve that regulates boost at highwayspeed is in the pump too. nipper
  13. This is a normal and messey sooby oil leak. It means tthat you need cam seals, main seal and oil pump seals. All these are usually done with a timing belt change (or every other belt change dependeing upon ,mileage interval). Also the waterpump gets changed too, then your good for the 100K miles (or 120 if its a 60k belt interval). This sounds scary but its not really. nipper
  14. The only issue that was making some noise there for a bit on the H6 was the timing chain tensioner. Drive them both, the h6 v6 the turbo, the power is always there, but it comes on in a lazy sort of way. The n/a H4 seems to have plenty of power unless your towing something, then the 6 would come in handy. nipper
  15. I agree check the timing belt. Usually the engine temp sensor will keep the car from running at all (one of those odd things that i dont understand but is common across all brands) nipper
  16. Be interesting to see how long it lasts. I agree that both sides should be done, but can understand the $$ issue nipper
  17. Yes The disparity between these two figures comes from the fact that one is a gross horsepower rating and the other is a wheel-driven horsepower rating. Gross horsepower is a measurement of engine output, taken at the flywheel, without the engine installed in a vehicle. Since the engine has no load on it, all of its energy can be used for making horsepower. Wheel-driven horsepower, by comparison, is a measurement taken at the driven wheels of a vehicle on what's called a dynamometer. This is done by placing the vehicle's driven wheels on a large roller and accelerating the wheels up to redline in first or second gear. The vehicle's ability to turn this roller is measured and calculated to come up with a figure that represents how much horsepower is actually available to move the vehicle around -- or real-world horsepower. Because a frictional loss between the engine and the driven wheels is unavoidable, wheel-driven horsepower will always be less than gross horsepower. How much less wheel-driven horsepower will depend on how many mechanical parts exist between a vehicle's engine and its driven wheels. Since we already mentioned a late-model Corvette, we'll use it as our example. The 345 horsepower that initiate in the Corvette's engine compartment have to travel through a transmission, driveshaft, rear-differential, and two axle shafts (one for each rear wheel). That's four separate mechanical components taking a bite out of the `Vette's horsepower before the rear wheels even begin to turn. Suddenly, the 285 wheel-driven horsepower rating doesn't seem so hard to believe. nipper PS At college we had both, and Engine Dyno and a Rear Wheel Dyno, and this is what we would see wehn we would build an engine, then put it in a car. nipper
  18. I do remeber seeing on the list (when it was mentioned) that there was no one side preference. There is one for piston slap though, nipper
  19. Thats not unusual http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/techcenter/articles/43845/article.html Carmakers advertise the gross horsepower (barebones engine connected to a dino) as opposed to Net HP which is what is at the rear wheels. nipper
  20. At least Cougar mentioned it first I really really hate being the bearer of bad news, but cold air in a hot running car MAY BE a head gasket. Especially since you said its been running a long time with no problems, somehow the airpocket had to be made. The only way this happens if no one has opened up the cooling system is from a leaking head gasket. Replace the thermostat and the radiator cap, but also check for exhaust gasses in the coolant. nipper
  21. Without hearing it i can't tell whether it is normal or not. It Should get louder under load. i can here mine when its not under load, but only with the hood open. Now there is a longshot that the internal pressure releif valve is stuck. Also make sure your drive belt is in good condition http://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering1.htm explains how Power steering works. nipper
  22. If it is a sound that gets louder with speed, and not dependent on engine rpm, it MAY be a bad differential. Differentials howl and its a unique noise. Other possibilities are a bad tire, bad wheel bearing, etc. Could be the roof rack also. If it wasnt there when you drove the car off the lot, then its not normal. Take it back to the dealer, its under warrenty. If he says that is "normal" (which i doubt if you fuind the noise annoying) ask to take another car for a test drive and see if it makes the same noise. How long ago did the noise start? Does it change pitch on curves at all? What happens when you put the car in neutral when the noise is at its loudest? nipper
×
×
  • Create New...