nipper

which temperiture sensor did you replace? nipper

so it feels like a miss on one plug? my car does the same thing at idle on occasion, cant tell if it is doing it at speed. that would most likely by ignition wires. nipper

What it means is that as long as the car is under warrenty you run premium fuel. Premium fuel as defined by that areas gasoline retailers. Octane ratings change depnding upon altitude. Everything you never wanted to know about gasoline http://www.cs.uu.nl/wais/html/na-dir/autos/gasoline-faq/part3.html and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filling_station In the United States, all gasoline is unleaded and is available in several grades, which are differentiated by octane rating: 87 (Regular), 89 (Super Unleaded), and 91 (Premium) are typical grades. In certain regions, fuels rated at 92 and 93 octane can also be found. Minimum octane levels are often lower in the Mountain States, where regular unleaded can be rated as low as 85 octane. A lower octane fuel is sufficient in the Mountain States because the higher altitude in these states reduces the need for high-octane fuel. Fuels in the U.S. are described in terms of their "pump octane", which is the average of their "RON" (Research Octane Number) and "MON" (Motor Octane Number). Labels on gasoline pumps in the U.S. typically describe this as the "(R+M)/2 Method". Some nations describe fuels according to the traditional RON or MON ratings, so octane ratings cannot always be compared with the equivalent U.S. rating by the "(R+M)/2 method". In Europe, petrol is unleaded and available in 95 (Eurosuper) and 98 (Super Plus) octanes; in some countries, 91 octane petrol is offered as well. Some stations offer 98 RON with lead substitute. In the UK, leaded 99/100 RON petrol has been reintroduced (legally) on a very limited basis for use by classic car enthusiasts and racers by the independent oil company Bayford Thrust (also the UK licensees of the famous Gulf Oil brand). nipper

soft reset (clear codes) is thirty seconds by disconnecting the negative cable, but most people do it 30 minutes. Hard reset is over night, which wipes out the memory of the learned driving habits. I would check the other thing that can stop the car from starting, the engine temp sensor for the ECU. But first check to see if you have spark. If you do the temp sensor is fine, then look at the fuel pump relay. The buzzing you heard could be a dying fuel pump relay. nipper

*earperk* Fog ,reversing light? *drool* i was wondering where the rear fog lights were on the wagons. Now to get my paws on one of those assemblies nipper

look around and make sure there are no loose vaccume lines under the hood, including the ever famous hose near(or under) the air filter box nipper

If you can get a haynes, in the back it has the wiring diagram fairly clearly laid out. I've never been a fan of chiltons. Are the relays marked under the relay cover, i think they should be. Main fan realy under dash on left side in the box uiunder the hood you have ac fuse (working from the nose back) ac main fan relay 1 ac sub relay 2 ac fan relay 2 ac comp relay i think thats the order nipper

its been so long since ive done an ac clutch i forgot about that . Rent one a autoparts store, it will save you alot of agrivation in the long run. nipper

So you have a 10 year old car with a problem and your going to fault subaru for it. Things break with time i also assume you havent gotten a manual yet. For what it is worth, from what i can tell is that there are four relays involved in the circuit in the USA models. There is a Sub Fan Water Temperiture relay, a Main Fan AC Relay, a Main Fan Relay, and a Sub Fan A/c Relay. When The Main AC relay comes in, it trips the SUb Fan Relay. These are controlled by the AC relay. If there is low pressure in the AC system it will affect the running of the fans too. I would check the AC relay and its feeds. How is your air conditioning. Does it do this with all the hvac controls in the off position. One possability - Pulling the AC relay should kill the erratic fan operation if the HVAC control is causing it. Second Possability - Thermo Evap switch may be acting crazy and turning the fans on and off. Third possability, do you have one or two temp sensors, one for the gauge and one for the computer It is much easier to trouble shoot this with a manual in front of you (and not that complicated a circuit), and way too difficult to do on line. nipper

Much better. The ac is probably just a leaking O ring. nipper

Haynes actually says what makes perfect sense, a bad coolant temp sensor or circuit malfunction nipper

You drive it back on using the bolt that was holding it all together. Yes you can clean the rust, but it is all going to come back again. nipper

well its good news bad news. The oil pump is on the front of the crankshaft. It still mean that the covers and timing belt have to come off. The good news is that you dont need a new water pump or belt or cam seals. What you will need is the O rings in the pump, and a main seal. But it is cheaper then needing everything. Odd i got yelled at on a yahoo group for recomending changing those seals with a timing belt. The expert mechanic blew up at me for telling people to buy things they dont need. He went on to say how in 1000's of subarus he has never seen an oil pump leak. I see it here alot (murphies law). He argued that the extra hour (or less) labor it wasnt worth it. He wanted people to pay the 200-300 in labor twice (subaru fact- seals will leak between 100-200K miles). Go figure. Oddly he hasnt been heard from on the list since. nipper nipper

How to store an engine, its relativly simple. Remove the plugs and squirt oil in the cylinders (this is probably easier if you have the engine with two cylinders pointing up) rotate the engine by hand, do the came thing to the other cylnders. You can use a fogging oil instead Flush the engines cooling system with a hose, or do it in the car if its still in the car. Antifreeze can get gummy after time. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/fog.aspx .Reinstall spark plugs. Cover or cap or plug all ports (coolant, intake , exhaust etc). CHange the oil (so no residual acids will eat away slowly at the bearings over time). Spray the engine with wd40 externally (or use an engine wax), especially any steel parts. Then just find a nice quiet safe place to put the engine. WHen it comes time to restart it, first crank the engine by hand to make sure everything is free, change the oil, put in new plugs, inspect all the rubber parts, rinse the engine and you should be good to go. nipper

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: just because im feeling silly but yes i like the LED idea nipper

ok you have my attention:banana: nipper

Well a tuneup is not meaningless, all that is gone is the ditsributor. you still have an air filter, spark plugs, pcv valve, fuel filter ignition wires and spark plugs. You can still check the ignition timer to see what the knock sensor is doing. Wires can look good, but thats not how you tell. The ingition system is (and always was) finiky in a car. It can look for leaks at just odd times and take advantage of them. High voltage can be an odd thing to figure out. The engine compartment is a very hostile area for high voltage cables, and thier faults cant always be seen. It can also be themass air flow sensor being dirty or dying. Can be the EGR valve. http://www.2carpros.com/topics/surge.htm read there and see if that helps. nipper

Nothing wrong with going up a hill in 5th. Some peoples hills are hills, other peoples hills are mountains, and need a downshift. When was the last time this had a tuneup? nipper

here we go 1- connect the self diagnostics connector under the dash (look and you will see something that looks like it needs to be pluged into the connector next to it, thats it) I thiink its green, Hayes says you need to partially remove the drivers side dash panel on the right side of the steering column. 2- Turn the ignition key to ON (do not start the car). The CEL should be on 3- Dissconnest the self check plug (sounds odd to me too) If the light is falshing really fast the plugs are still connnected (gee how come no one says this when they try to drive with this connected) 4- Watch the light (go to the light hehehehe). Long blinks will be the first digit, short blinks will be the second digit. FOur long is a 4, two short is a 2, hence 42. 5- The CEL will repeat once it has spilled its guts Tell us what the trouble codes are and we will look them up. There are deeper trouble codes, but that requires special readers. You can clear the codes by disconnecting the negative terminal for 30 seconds or more (i hate loosing all the radio settings doing that) nipper

He said down hill or level ground, thought the knock sensor may be worth a peek. Usually the knock sensor is good about throwing a code. :burnout: :burnout: nipper

You can downshift to third and not hurt anything, i mean, thats the "oh s**t i have no brakes" manuver. if you can run the car up to 75 in a gear, you can downshift it to that gear too. Now that said, your just being annoying now . The only thing i can think of is the IAC motor doing odd things. May be the only way to find out is to rent a scanner and drive it down hill and read the scanner. nipper

ALso check the fluid condition, are there any air bubbles in the fluid. Does it look like its contaminated with anything? CHeck the coolant in the radiator for the same thing.

CHange the fluid and see what happens, but the whir is sounding more like the front pump. nipper

(ok i was tired, its no fun dealing with social security in the early morning) hrmm the sound is it a roar , howl or a whir. At that relativley low mileage ild hate to say a front pump. When the car is in park and neutral, the pump really isnt doing all that much work. All it is doing in is circulating oil. When in D or R the load on the pump goes up dramatically to hold the clutches and bands in place. Torque converters dont usually make noise when they go bad. i know you had the belt off for the ac, have you had all the belts off to make sure its not an alt or PS noise. How is the car shifting, especially the reverse to drive shift, is there any lag ? nipper