nipper

yes i just got my aproval today nipper

the BIG question, did you squirt any oil in the cylinders before you stored the car. Did you cover the intake and exhaust? When fuel hits the oil it can make an acid. When there is no mileage put on the car go by time, since the oil did see 300 miles on it, i would change it. Besides there is nothing worng with 30.00 worth of insurance vs a engine wiped out. nipper

Your the second with that light issue. Remove the bulbs one at a time in the brake lights til the problem goes away, then inspect that socket or replace it. Also make sure thy are working and the fliamint isnt shorting out the lights. its quite possible that it is the master cylinder then. You may want to replavce the flex brake lines. People seem to over look those. I would replace those first (since they are old enough to warrent it anyway). nipper

now if your car was closer to 200,000 miles i would recomend inspecting the oilpump and possibly changing it. At your low mileage, just replace the seals. nipper

Mud Mud looks good on a sooby and will cover things like that nipper

i agree, no need to replace the oilpump, just reseal it. On the older 1.8 You would replace them at the 3rd timing belt just because they were cheap. Replace the tensioner The seperator plate (i think) is that mystery plate in the bell housing. Some of them are plastic and leak like seives after a while. I still dont know thier purpose in life. nipper

Your right, but i think that we are all forgetting WHY not so much the how. SUbaru AWD is unique in the fact that the clutch pack is always engaged (unless the fuse is installed). It splits power from 10/90 to 50/50. The clutch pack is designed to accept some slippage, max being 20% speed differnetial between the front and rear axles for realtivley short periods of time. Most the time its no more the n a few percent (roads arent straight). a differntial takes the speed of the driveshaft and splits it mechancially by 2. We will assume a simple ratio. Straight both wheels are turning 1:1. Make a turn it may be 1.5 on the left, .5 on the right. The speed of the driveshaft has not changed. . Now have mismatched tires on one axle, you are stressing the differntial (especially on a manual). The front and rear axles do not turn at the same speed. This is because the front wheels turn, where as the rear wheels do not. The front axle actually turns a bit faster speed. (im assuming a normally RWD car only because ive gone to far to rewrite this). By compensating for circumfrence with tire inflation, you are adding saftey issues. An overinflated/underinflated tire can hydroplane easier. It can cause odd braking and emergency handling. the difference in inflation is magnified by load.You are adding more drag on the differnentials. Human nayure being human nature, somone is going to forget one tire is supposed to be 5psi less then the other tire to balance the rotational speed. A shop may check your tires while the car is in for service and you nor know it. There are too many things that can go wrong and the price can be too high. The tire chalk mark is an acceptable method of checking circumfrence. ALso once its measured make a hard turn and see how the tires end up in all differnt positions. :cool: i hope i explained things well, as i do this better in person then on line. SInce your tires are of differnt sizes, the chalk marks should get out of synch, which is very bad for the clutch pack. nipper

Jamie Thomas Internet Parts Manager www.SubaruGenuineParts.com toll free: 800.962.0822 ************** www.subiegal.com

would have been a cool 2 door extended cab type pickup (so you can properly adjust the seats. Then i would have bought one myself. nipper

in all honesty i'm not sure, it can go either way. My logic is that the cat can handle a wide varity of a/f irregularities and compensate for them without going out of acceptable limits. i should have re worded one of my replies. i think the second is only measuring the cat output, not comparing itself to the first one (i goofed). ild still say replace both, since he isnt geting an o2 sensor failure light, but has all the symptons, but he is getting a failed cat output code. If i could see the scanner reading the sensor outputs in real time, i would say for sure either way, but i cant. nipper

If you are tight for cash, replace front one (the more exp) and cross your fingers, but you have two seperate problems. the running issues (the front o2 sensor) and the cat effeciency code (the rear o2 sensor). It ran fine after you reset the computer cause it took a few days for things to happen again. i bet your sensors arent failed yet, but they are slow/lazy or on the edge. nipper

But we like the banana :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

STOP! (hehe thats right you cant) There is the master cylinder and the power brake booster. both give the same symptons. You also have brake lines that do age internally and you cant really tell. Test the PB. with the car off press the brake pedal untill all boost is exhausted (5-10 times). Put your foot on the brake pedal, then start the car, the pedal should move towards the floor. If it doesnt you have a bad booster. Did you re use the brake fluid from bleeding. you can not do that as the fluid is airated. What do you mean by "their is not as much pedal " exactly. There are claipers on the front, and calipers or wheel cylinders on the rear. How did you bleed the brakes. nipper

they are right where you left them *slowly backs away with shiney key like objects* nipper

Thats a very good sign. that means that nothing is frozen together and elecrically everything works. Change the fluid, drive the car in a full lock circle and that should ungum everything. Still a 5% chance of it not fixing it, but it sounds good nipper

did you take a straight edge to all the mounting srufaces, both lengthwise and cross wise to make sure its flat and parallel. Hate to have you spend big bucks on a new pan (if its even available, wasnt on the parts site). nipper

ebay nipper

The recirculate door motor is bad. It is a motor with a gear and it cant tell that it has reached its full travel. Since it cant find itself, it keeps overrunning the cam. Its either that or the door is broken, but i do belevie you need a new recirculate motor. nipper

except you dont just get "fuel" from the injectors. you also get fuel from the evap system. When you first start the car, the stored fumes are released into the manifold. Maybe this is where the problem is. Your not running the car long enopugh to burn all the fumes or the evap valve is getting lazy. BUt it sure does sound like flooding. NExt time let the car run a little longer and see if the same thing happens. nipper

way cool. i guess im used to the older style, nipper

You hit the nail on the head. The second o2 sensor is checking the effeciency of the cat, by comapring to the first one. The first one talks to the ECU. o2 sensors have a life of about 100k miles. Besides even if it is the cats, i still would recomend replaceing the o2 sensors aand the cat at the same time (unless you know they have been replaced once already). So replace the o2 senors. i think the second one can be generic, the first must be OE. Most the time this will fix it, and its much cheaper to replace o2 sensors and have it fix it, then replace the cats and have the problem still be there. nipper

i vote for an o2 sensor. First off we need to know what codes are apparent. Not all codes will turn on the cel if they are of a short duration. They may stay in memory. I dont beleive it is a cat, as they tend to last a very long time. There is a test for the cat. Bang it with your hand. If it rattles its bad (the breakdown of the internal materials will rattle around). Cats are the least likely choice. When the car is cold it is in an open loop. This means it is running off preprogramed paramiters. Once the car warms up it goes into closed loop, this is where its reading alll the sensors. One of the sensors that are locked out of open loop is the o2 sensor. K & N filter not a great thing to do. research air filters here, you will see they allow more flow by letting more dirt to go by. Right now i would drive the car untill the cel goes back on, then pull the codes. If the mechanics never scaned for codes shame on them. If you bought it to them after you cleared the codes they are forgiven. Also a scanner will read things in real time. you can see exaclty what the o2 sensor, tps and several other sensors are doing in real time. The TPA will have the same sympton at the same point in the throttle, as it is a very simple rheostat. The o2 sensor tells the car how to adjust the A/F mixture for optimal performance and emissons. Since it is on its way out, it is acting weird. This throws off the AF ratio so you get hesitation, surging and everything else you complained about. nipper

There are little plastic tabs that hold the female balde terminals in. If they broke those tabs, you will never get them to stay in. Best bet is to get a new pigtail and wire it in. ALso some terminsal snap in from the front of the connector (makes perfect sense on the assembly line). These are never meant to be serviceable. nipper

Actually that does not suck. It may ba a shock at first, but once you do this you should be good to go till 200,000 miles. Also buy the parts yourself, I bet you can bring down the cost. nipper

If its a hollow knock it can be the center bearing or drive shaft universals. If it is the dealer is going to come back with a shocking number. Let us know what the dealer finds then we can advise from there. nipper