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Everything posted by nipper
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I have a pic and i have no idea how to post it. Can i email it to somone and have them post it (yes im a clutz at this stuff). I have not seen this car in person but the pic looks like a block of some kind with the hyd clutch lines passing through it. It is mounted on the side of the tranny. It has a bleed valve. I want to say hill holder but i dont see any brake lines in the pic. Also i dont know what a hyd clutch hillholder looks like. nipper
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Firts off flushing brake fluid wil not cause a low pedal, but worn shoes and pads may. Contaminated fluid or air in the system is the issue. Air can cause a low or spongy pedal all the time, contamination will cause brake fade. The "slave" cylinders are called wheel cylinders. Why do you want to replace everything? It can be easier to get rebuilds instead of rebuilding them yourself, when time is taken into considertaion. 80 k is awfully early to have any major brake issues, but it happens. nipper
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Guess its time for an update. Still rcovering from the back surgery. i put in the accesory power outlet and it took me two days (should have been an hour tops). Physical Therapy 3x's a week. My PT said to write off this year as far as activity, since so many of my muscles are atrophied and need to be re taught. There is a paralized muscle in my left leg. We dont know if its going to come back, but i wish it would unlock. Its the muscle you need to bend your leg put your shoes on. It is also used for side to side stability. i can stand about an hour, walk for about 2 blocks i can walk a flight of stairs, which everyone seems to be shocked atGoing to be a long boring summer. Annivesary of the accidnet is july 1st. i'm going to have to pay somone to do my timing belt and the associated goodies this year. nipper
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One of the good or annoying things about oil, is that it doesnt take much to make a lot of blue smoke. The only time you really fail an emisson test for burning oil is if you are making an obscene amount of smoke. Usually that much oil will foul the cat. A cat can withstand a quart per 600 miles (the old standard thats used as excessive oil burning). If your not seeing it on your dipstick, i still wouldnt sweat it that much. My car burns oil only in the winter and the first start of the day (and yes it bothers me). When i did have an oil burner i used the STP, but thats just personal preference. Compression test will be interesting to see the difference between wet and dry numbers. nipper
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So anyone want a project car? im not posting this in the ebay section as i dont think anyone here is going to by it, but sure looks interesting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Impreza-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-Twin-Turbo-SVX-3-3L-Drag-Car-Race_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ31868QQitemZ4646372559QQrdZ1 only 25,000.00 US nipper
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a car needs electricity to run. As it runs out of power, its going buck and miss and kick and god knows what else (especially if its a manual). a short can backfeed through the electricl system in the weirdest ways and make your dashbaord light up like a christmas tree, and the only light that wont be on is the alt light. You have a serious short some place, inspect all the cables and harnesses. Have the alt and battery checked. nipper
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im going to say dont worry about it. It sounds like valve guides or stem seals, and since it happend under an extreme condition. im going to guess its the stem seals. i really think you have nothing to worry about, as the stem seals do go eventually even in the best of homes. When you fixed the headgasket did you do any valve work? nipper
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at 100,000 miles cars do get minor issues, its thier right and nothing lats for ever. Parts do wear out. Subarus tend to like one heavy maintanece every 100,000 miles and are happy little campers till the next one (normally). HG issues can be had with any used car. The tensioner issue has been coming up more and more, but so far its all been under warrenty, though i would hate to see someone get hat repair bill, as there are over 100 bolts involved in that repair (and i thought i was anal). The variable timing has been around a long time from an engineering point of veiw but fairly new to sooby, and i dont know how they are making it work. Given the choice, i prefer the late 90's outbacks. i like the lines better, i know tyhose engines run for ever (even if it does blow a headgasket) and i dont need the high insurance bill AND car payments. Though i still like the lines of the imprezza. nipper
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pita brakes
nipper replied to seanski06's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html try there for rotors and pads. I am getting more and more disillusioned with the big chain sotres. Also try a mom and pop store and see what they get for them. The cheapo rotors may not like hard braking. Also when you buy pads always go up one step if they give you multiple choices (if not OE) nipper -
pita brakes
nipper replied to seanski06's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
torque the wheels to the spec. also tighten them in star pattern. Hard braking can warp rotors, but you would have to be real hard on the brakes Did you use OE, brand name or aftermarket rotors. What pads did you use? nipper -
pita brakes
nipper replied to seanski06's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Did you check the sliders on the calipers to make sure they move freely? that would cause the problem to come back. nipper -
sigh only 15% of the 2.5L are affected. older ones do it internally, newer ones do it externally (which is prefered if you had to pick one) any aluminum engine is more likely to blow a HG the older it gets any engine with over 100k on it can blow a hg at any time. Good news is once it is fixed on a sooby it is fixed. nipper
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the LSD on a subaru is not worth the money. Its not mechanical its viscous. There is a delay before it kicks in and by then your buried in sand. Its ok for snow and rain. Also its just on the rear wheels so you can still get stuck. ever try to hold a manual at 3mph? its hard and not good at all for the clutch. An automatic not only can do that, but will also multiply the torque at that low a speed. the 5 speed you need to slip the clutch to engage it. The only way to get any rpm less then idle is to slip it, and by force of habit your going to apply more gas then you need to engage it. Automatic you can vary wheel speed real easily with your right foot. Simulating lsd is an old trick thats been around since before LSD was invented. Dune buggies did by having individual hand brakes. The new computer systems were with any 6 cylinder model, and i thnk now is available across the board. nipper
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i think you made your injectors very very angry. fuel injectors on their face value are not that complicated, but once you realize the internal tolerances, it doesnt take much to screw them up. COld starts are fine because a little extra fuel isnt a bad thing when cold, but is when hot. Since i cant see the car, get a scanner and see whats happening. i think you may have to get new injectors. You have only partially cleaned the injectors with the carb cleaner, then the ultrasound made it worse. Ultrasound can also do damage if you dont know what your doing. Ultrasound + aluminum or electrical parts is very bad. http://www.pprep.com/fuel_injector_work.htm The only true way now to test is flow test, dont even think of doing that yourself. Fire and explosion a bad bad thing, along with gasoline peircing your skin. nipper