nipper

your looking for an a/c blip on an analog multimeter. Not everything is tested by resistance. you can crank the engine by hand to test it to. The "manual" should tell you how. nipper

have you tried to pull any codes? you can also go to a junkyard and pull a coil pack and an ignitor. You can also have somone crank the engine while a analog meter is hooked up to the crank sensor,. SInce you have spark out of the first pack and not the second, maybe it is a coil pack. The ignitor i think would be intermittent or dead. If you can do the crank angle and cam anglke check and get a heart beat, i would look at the coil and the ignitor. Pick them both up at the junkyard (or a couple of each). nipper

at least i didnt say they needed to be connected nipper

There is that entire "void warrenty" thing if he changes the cluster head ( not easy to find a brand new 06 in a junkyard). Remember this is a brand new car. i think there is probably some trick to do it on the digital readout. The spedo you will be stuck with. nipper

well you have a few possabilites. The tensioner went bad and the timing belt came off or jumped, or the cam angle/crank angle sensor is bad. The dealer gave you bad information. Of course they are going to say that becuase if it goes bad a week later, they get to charge you the labor all over again to get to the part. Why did you use a dealer and not a local garage? nipper

cam angle position sensor is where i would start. Very few things will keep the car from starting The cam angle, crank angle and engine temp. Since your spark is odd i would look at the cam angle sensor and the ignitor. Did you do anything else like replace the tensioner? nipper

ok then we can pretty much write off the milega on the car as being accurate. i dont expect a waterpump to go bad till over 100,000 miles. Then you have a bad waterpump, and if the car had some major work done, then i would suspect a cloged radiator too. If somone here has a carfax account it would be interesting to run the vin # and see what history comes up. i bet it wont be pretty. nipper

is the car still under warrenty? Has the car had any major work done to it? The symptons dont make sense to me, but im leaning more and more to a clogged raditor. Thw difference in the hose temp tells me there is no flow. ON the other hand the forced running of the cooling fans cools the car down. The more i think about it the more i think your radiator is cologed, but the questions is why? Do you have a stick? What does the coolant look like? What color is your engine oil? nipper

i dont like that fact that they are bare wires and really dont look like factory wires. Can you see where they backtrack to? nipper

now now now if that comadore he's using been good enough for him all these years ..... Seriously what OS and Internet surf program you using nipper

what year and whats the mileage on the car. i know you daid 45k but cant tell if that is how long you have owned it or thats total mileage on the car. If its 45K total on the car its WAY too early for either problem. If the waterpump drive belt was loose the timing belt would junp. Timing belt drives the water pumo. What eyar make engine tranny and mileage is on the car please

well 30 g for fully loaded legacy, then 10 g for the conversion, 40 is about right. nipper

comeplelty disassemble the heads yourself. that will save labor charges. Also another thing the machine shop does is knurl the guides so there is no oil consumption. nipper

sounds like your cooling fans arent coming on. The radiator flows from the bottom to the top, so i would double check the thermostate agauin, it may be in backwards. Another possability is a clogged radiator, but that is usually a hot bottom hose and cool top hose. nipper

well the reason it gooped up the weep hone is that how it works. It sees the weep hole as a leak (technically it is) and plugs it up. The stuff only solidifies when it hits air. it wont clog the cooling system, nipper

isnt the spedometer analog? is there anything in the owners manual about it? You may want to email subaru of america. They are quite good at answering technical questions nipper

Valve job is no that hard, but the ppoint of the valve job is refinishing the seats. Valve grinding compound is not what that is used for. It is actually for lapping the valves, This is done with a suction cup tool to ensure a perfect metal to metal seal, its the final step, not the first step. Taking the head apart is simple. But if your not going to bother with a true valve job (and three angle isnt that hard to do with the right tools) then you may be doing alot of work for nothing. nipper

in all honesty i dont know. https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html look there and see what part number comes up. nipper

maybe you dont have thumbs? nipper

GIMMIE! nipper

Remove one spark plug wire at a time and see if the noise changes pitch. Is it from the front center or rear of the engine. Does it do it when the engine is cold? nipper PS i love svx, looking for one for myself. There is an svx board, but they are sort of useless as far as anything thats not the tranny or the differentials.

you can crush the gasket from over tightening and from not tightening in a star pattern. That goes with any cork gasket. SInce im not being answered on the flatness or method of tightening of the pan im bowing out of this one. nipper

Just search piston slap and have a cup of coffe, extensive reading, second only to torque bind and climate control lights. Oddly the problem seems to have gone away in 2003? nipper

no i havent as i cant find it here. Tis was a for sh**s and grins kind of thing. nipper

most popular reason is a dirty or malfunctioning wheel speed sensor nipper