nipper

you can here them click (subaru injectors are loud). You can also use a test lamp on the connector and it shold flash. We need to merge the two "my car wont run after a timing belt" threads into one, im getting dizzy nipper

i miss the old ways of testing it. have your best freind hold the ignition wire and plug, if he did it wrong you would hear OW OW OW OW OW then you knew you had spark, god metal body parts were fun nipper PS Subaru is not known for making oddball engines in a production run, sounds like the timing is not right.

WOE! make sure the manual doesnt have the same issue, otherwise your doing a hell of a lot of work for nothing. i would just go out and by a used auto tranny, but you still should flush the tranny as the odds are good to excellant that a 99.00 flush will solve everything. nipper

ok i dont like you anymore. what is a coil only spark tool? i just do it the old fashined way and use a spark plug. you need a strong blue spark. Take a test light to a FI and see if it flashes time to double check the timing marks nipper

Can’t test TPS. I tried but I got some strange clicking sound coming from the bottom of the motor so I stopped right there. Can’t find the right equipment to test it. Seems like my alligator clips are no good for this task. huh? the throttle position sensor is just a variable rheostate and can be easily tested with an ohm meter. What strange clicking sound out of the bottom of the motor are you talking about? (a clue ?) i cant make heads nor tails out of the ignitor info, as i would go straight by the book (and have for oh lets say my 20 years of FI expierience) and it is usally very good at diagnosing the problem. Its not that complicated a system. The temp sensor just has a clip on the connector, sometimes its a beast but it will come off. i'm still going with the ignitor but like i said, at this point i need the car in front of me to determin whats going on. nipper

If they are small bulbs like the rest of the subaru line (im not sure in all honesty) try radioshack for replacements. Subaru tends to ask insane prices for the tiny bulbs, even if you can get them. nipper

eeek if you agreed we must be wrong, horribly terribly wrong:banana: nipper

Are we talking the channel kind of rack or the hydraulic lift type rack? i'm curious nipper

Luckytexan it was running right after the change, then slowly got worse. This is really hard to do over the net when you need to do a checklist to see what is and isnt going on. nipper

sure drag me back in kicking and screaming, i thought you were my freind . i've been avoiding this of late since it seems to be all over the place. I may repeat myself and others, but after 5 pages i need a recap. The crank and cam sensor have been checked with an analog a/c meter to check for a heartbeat when the engine is cranked through one complete cycle. there should be 6 heartbeats for the crank and 7 for the cam shaft. The coil packs have been checked for resistance and opens (exact specs are in the haynes manual). The ignitor output has been checked with an led testlight. Is there power to the fuel injectors? Are the fuel injectors opening and closing (bad ecu) Are there any dirty connectors or wires is the TPS within spec Is the ecu engine temp sensor operating. Is the intake clear? beyond that i cant help without looking at the car. nipper

Your clutch is on its way out. you learn very quickly on ebay you get what you pay for. Personally i would call https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html ask for jamie (she is on this board) and see what the kit goes for. It really depends upon how long you want to keep the car. Yes a clutch as intimidating as it may sound can be done by somone who is mechanically inclined. Just label everything as you dissconnnect it, and if you have a digital camera picures can help alot. Get yourself a haynes manual if you can. Aside from all the emissions garbage these are essentially simple cars. Also replace the clutch cable at the same time you replace the clutch, and think about replacing the rear main seal as long as you are there. nipper

timing can be really tricky on the multi cam engines, it will bite you every time. nipper

Its done all the time, but there is a 14.95 kit to do it if i understand you correctly. i think the bulbs are tiny and soldered in. i dont recall anyone ever doing this, but it goes under the heading "you cant make it worse" Nothing short of pushing the car off a cliff is going to give you any better acceleration. Its not so much the engines fault, as it is the transmissions gearing. For specs on the car go to www.car101.com nipper

Kind of hard to say from your description, but i think maybe its your clutch slipping. From a dead stop try to get the car to move from 3rd or 4th gear. The car should buck kick and stall. If it doesnt the clutch is starting to slip. nipper

Hrmmm thats an idea . Does seem like its either that or im defending head gaskets. nipper

Automatics have wet clutches. If the fluid is to slick, it can cause the clutches to slip longer then they would normally and cause excess ware. Synthetic trannny fluid is fine for newer cras, or cars made for it. If you didnt notice a differnce in your shifting, fine. There are a number of people who noticed more shlipping in the tranny and switched back to regular fluid. Its not an automatic recomendation for syn fluid, but the hybrid seems to escape this problem compltly. It really varies from car to car. I just dont like to recomend that change on a cr that has spebt most its life with std fluid, without letting somoone realize there may be a negaitve affect on the transmission. Soobie trannies are fairly robust with the std fluid, so personally i dont see a need or the expense of the synthetics, unless you live in the mountains or tow a trailer. Tranny failures seem to be few and far between (not including torque bind). nipper

yes things will break, the most at risk thing is the exhaust system, then there is the senders in the fuel tank and any dirt in the tank. The battery does not like being slammed .... i can go on but you get the idea nipper

there are relays that operate the abs, sounds like one may have gotten stuck. The relays are located (i think) on the abs housing under a cover. Somone will chime in if im wrong. nipper

OK this is easy. First make sure all your tires match and are inflated the same. Second flush the transmission. that cures it 90% of the time. Since the fuse still works your clutch is more likely gummed up then anything else. nipper

The rear shocks are completly blown. i dont think the air system can compensate for that then. nipper

some digital see it some dont. Anyway either way it means that is ok. nipper

you need an analog meter and spin the crank and get a pulse. Unless you have an oscilliscope that is the way you test them, it is accepted on that bassis as it has an ac output. You cant use an digital meter as the sampling rate is too high and the output is to low the meter will never see it. nipper

Steel rule is good enough for a flatness check, as he isnt going to be taking dimensions off it. Now if he was going to do dimensions thats an entirely differnt ball game. nipper

Thats all you really nees, is a steel ruler or a machinest ruller. As long as they are solid steel they will have a perfect straight edge on them. You check the heads in the x, y, and diagnol directions. nipper

agree, and rotate the tires and see if it moves, do it one at a time so you can peg it down. nipper