nipper

It doesnt surprise me, as volvo seemed to get on the awd crossover bandwagon a bit late and is playing catch-up. Maybe they dont climb muddy hills in sweeden? Does anyone know what system is used in the ford escape hybrid (mazda+toyota+ford). nipper

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58288&highlight=tailgate is that is? nipper

Warped rotor or rotors. The Tires probably hid the warped rotors, like the others said. Axle boots can leak, rip, tear, throw, fling grease, just pick your terminology:grin: nipper

If you want synthetic go ahead, but if your tranny acts weird you need to change back. On the other hand there are lots of trannies here running on dino and packing on the miles. The key thing to getting long life out of these (or almost any tranny except the svx) is regular fluid changes. SVX problem was the clutch material on the lock up torque converter would flake off and clog the cooler lines. Next thing you know is you have a cooked tranny from over heating. Nothing, synthetic or otherwise can stop that from happening. Its really up to you (but i like dino). nipper

i thought we compromised on the hybrid oil, or did i miss that memeo? nipper

Maybe find one that has been t boned or rear ended, that way you sort of know the car wasnt junked for a mechanical or electrical issue nipper

which does lead to the question, have you replaced all the radiator hoses heater hoses and fan belts. Also have you changed the coolant regularly. Your nest issue to watch out for is a clogged radiator. That will show up as the temp gauge climbing 3/4 up with the ac on, ac dropping out, and temp going down. Also the radiator fins seem to fall apart after a while, and will give the same symptons. nipper

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53724&highlight=spark http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51888&highlight=spark there are others, but they all say what we said here, so no need to repeat, and o none of them (20 pages worth) seem to have a magic bullit. i will assume though that since they stoped they got thier cars started. Almost all coil or ignition problems are the pre 1990 subarus, and after that are cracked coils or what we said already. Only about 3 no spark posts. nipper

heheh stop stepping on my tail then nipper

nah it wasnt you, it was xrturbo who jumped down my throat. i just dont have patience for people who dont have patience with others. nipper

odds are its not a fuse, but you can check. DO you have the light when you push the cruise button? hehe i see my typos arent all the bad, an 09 ? nipper

at least you didnt say "it reminds me of when i had to stick my arm ...... hehehe nipper moo

You can run it in FWD untill the duty c solenoid failes. i ran miue three months before i changed the fluid in the trannny (and the problem went away). You can drive it untill the solenoid fails (can be years). The filter is just a screen and useless to change. i'm bowing out of this thread since you are going to do what your going to do without a proper sequence. Fluid would solve the problem, but since i got chewed out once, im gracefully bowing out before i say something not so nice. Have fun and good luck. nipper

HIgh Tension leads = High Tension Wires = SPark Plug Wires nipper

http://mredge.com/images/outback/Subaru_Legacy_G3_Audio_Install.pdf nipper

if it has been well maintained, regular fluid changes, and in todays modern world, my guess would be when someone hits it. After that my second best guess would be a blown head gasket or a tranny failure. The opposed piston engine desighn, almost all the forces cancel eachother out (like the old VW).In theory there is no upper limit on the engine wear. nipper

IACV = idle air control valave. (cougar beat me to it) a bad ecm engine temp sesnor will keep the car from starting a bad crank and cam sensor will keep the car from starting. if the cam sensor and crank sensors are grossly out of synch the car wont start (jumped timing) the NSS or inhibitor switch only affects the starter. Hard start when cold is indicitve normally of moisture getting into the ignition system. The voltage arcing out of the electrical system evaporates the moisture and the car starts. nipper

http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=472 the burns nipper

http://www.fabriclink.com/carpet/Rubbercement.html give that a shot nipper

ok now im confused, and im bowing out after this cause nothing is making sense at all. im used to bench testing TPS units and we look for resistance (ohms law) and no dead spots. Also i dont know if the ignitor gets a 12 volt signal, pulse or lower voltage. Never assume that everything under the hood is 12 volts, nor that it is dc. You can blow up compnents that way. Some are current controled, some work off reverse polarity, others may work off of low voltage. Some are not designed for anything longer then a millisecond pulse. Ignition coils need a pulse and duration to build up the proper magnetic feild and release it. http://www.sentex.net/~mwandel/cannon/sparky.html Coil designs may change, points may no longer exist, but they still operate the same way. Some times it is wise to surrender and call the tow truck. i think you may be in over your head, and we cant help you cause the sea is too rough. good luck nipper

yes everything. Why you wont try a fluid change is beyond me. I dont think its that easy to convert the car to a manual, it takes alot of work. i know people do it with svx's and it is not easy. i really dont understand why your hell bent on tearing the car apart when a fluid change will probabaly solve the problem. Lucas isnt the solution, changing the fluid is.There is more to the awd unit besides the clutches, which in all honesty are probably fine. if they were fused the fuse bypas would not work. i am the resident expert on torque bind, and an automotive engineering tech, so im not talking out my butt here. if you are all hell bent on taking the car apart so be it, but what your doing is basically rebuilding an engine due to a light tick from the engine oil never being changed. This is not that nad an issue on an automatic, but hey what do i know. have fun and im bowing out of this thread. nipper

Thats what i used to get paid for, try the obvious and look for the subtle causes. i just figured we exhausted everything it was time to back to the last major repair, which was not that long ago. That just made sense to me. Now about that beer:banana: nipper

thats on the checklist that needs to be looked at. im begining to think the timing belt jumped one tooth, then two teeth. that goes along with the hard start then the no start. i want a beer (or another dillaudid) nipper

im at that point too. Is it possible, at all possible that the timing belt jumped? What condition was the tensioner in when you chnaged everything nipper

not to ask a silly question, but what piston do you think is number #1 piston nipper