nipper

that was my second thought, but its defanitly a timing and closed loop/open loop issue. It doesnt really follow the pattern of a bad temp sensor, as they just kill the car. nipper

hrmmmmm next time it does this do you have a freind/wife/faimily member handy? We need to determine if its spark or fuel. Hot weather hard starting is usually a fuel issue. Hot engine starting is usually a electrical issue (vapor lock long gone these days but it happens). If you can pull a spark plug wirs and see if there is a spark (i think its a fuel issue). I'm guessing your loosing fuel pressure. Next time it happens, put the car in the on position, count to ten then start it. This will give the fuel system time to pressureize. i bet you have a sticking fuel pressure regulator. The regulator is allowing the fuel system to drain when its hot. reason why when its hot? could be worn rubber parts inside. Best way to tell is to have the shop hook up a fuel pressure gauge so you can see it and send you home with it. But i think thats the cause. nipper

heheh i invision a better faster shifter making things worse on the 2-3 shift, you can always skip 3rd. nipper

not just yet. We are now in the "you cant make it worse" territory. Remove the fan belts. Remove the crank pully and lets see how much damage there is. I had the same thing and lucked out, maybe you have too. nipper

It sounds like you may have a few problems. First one is the knock sensor. That is a pretty clear cut nothing else can cause it fault code. A bad knock sensor can reek havoc with your ignition timing and cause everything you said. the reason why it happens hot is simple. When cold the car is running in an open loop, meaning it is running off of pre determined values for fuel timing etc. The knock ensor, o2 sensor and a few others are ignored at this time. When warm the car goes into closed loop. It is now reading the sensors, and the bad knock sensor is making the car run like crap. Lets clear that up first. Next go to the nhtsa site and check for recalls. If they have not been done on the car, he has to do them no matter how old the car is. Smoke. This car has really low miles on it, which is not always the best thing. Rubber seals dry out, cars are made to be driven, especially sooobies. I would bet if you look under the car you will see oil on the engine (dont blame your mechanic, it may have happened recently with you driving the car) It is possible the previous owner never drove the car longer then 20 minutes at one time. Fix the knock sensor, clear the codes, then come back. Look at the fane belts, what condition are they in (im asking for a reason). nipper

its a big fix. Usually if you catch it while its still wobbling you can save things, but when you get to this pooint i dont think so. Are you mechanical at all? nipper

its the ignitor or the temp sensor. you have the manual, look up the trouble shooting for the fuel system. nipper

i agree with carl you need a starter. Before you do that though, check your battery cables. take off thecables and clean them at both ends first. Battery cables do get old too. But this is typically a bad starter. Heat and electricity are not freinds. Starter gets hot from the engine, too much internal reisitance, no start. Starter cools down, car starts. nipper

read it from my side you see it differntly, and im not going to argue anyway:headbang: . The solenoid is working, the clutch pack is tired. They do on occasion go the old fashioned way (wear out). nipper

no fair, your making me nuts. Now you left out one answer, does the cycling car ( i asked for an a, b, and now c, your not making things easy) spin the front wheels in the parking lot. When was the last time it had a fluid change. Check the fluid condition. The clutch pack may be tired. The duty c solenoid when dead or fully off will give you AWD or torque bind. IF the solenoid is stuck, it will dump all the pressure. Now that we know who is on first..... The solenoid is working, trhats whay it is cycling. Now the bad news, the clutch pack is slipping far more then it should. think of it like an automatic transmission that is slipping. It will barely catch and make the car go before it works no more. Thats where you are... make it two beers :drunk: nipper

no wonder im confused there are THREE of them, nopw you owe me a beer here i thought i was going nuts. New rule, no more three stooges type questions nipper

ok this is not fair, and im not a mind reader. your first post talked of one car, then you spoke of another both the same year, without stating that. Now put in ONE post what each car is doing, the milage, what work has been done, and which one does what. Call one car A and the other car B. You cant keep bouncing around between threads and expect me to follow it. This will make life easier nipper

a few hundred if its like the front one. I never had to replace a rear. nipper

My 97 obw and my 98 leagcy would never spin out on dry ground, and was work to get it to spin on wet ground. Being able to spin out on dry ground there may be something else going on, unless your dumping a clutch (i know they are automatics). i'm begining to wonder it the problem is not the pulsing wheel but the one spinning all the time. MY freinds 05 legacy wont spin out on dry ground, and my 88 GL would not spin out on dry ground (and that was a 5speed and d/r). the only time you get 50/50 split without the puter thinking about it is reverse, d2 and full throttle. the rest of the time the puter is adjusting the split to only enough torque to get the car moving. I can spin out my soobies with the FWD fuse in only. nipper

ok now if you said that at the begining sheesh was the surface wet or dry nipper

Could be your idle air control. This controls the engine rpms at idle or when the engine is unloaded. The technical term for it is that the engine rpm is flairing up when you depress the clutch. nipper

ok so i misread, and your not reading mine. re read what i typed as a possible explination. If you want any deeper call subaru since i dont have the algorythems. It is quite possible that : a- both are working fine within specs. One has a newer clutch pack, therefore it is tighter. The way the awd works is the clutches are always engaged. They are designed to slip on turns. the solenoid cycles and by cycling it varies the amount of torque to the rear wheels. b- There could have been a change in the algorythems in that year between the two production dates. c- it is a completly unfair test. I would be MORE worried if it didnt work at all. Feel free to take it to dealer and have them look at it, or drop subaru of america an email and ask them. They are pretty good at answering technical questions. nipper PS what happens in the ones that spins all the time when you put the FWD fuse in ti? Do the rear wheels stop spinning.

Your due for an o2 sensor, dont be surprised if you need the 2nd after you put in the first. https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html Idle Air Control, dont worry about that. Replace the o2 sensor then see if that is still there. reset the codes by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds. OBD I you needed specific readers, OBD II are universal by law. nipper

You are talking two cars that are not only 6 years apart, but two differnt genereations. Emission requirements changed during those years. I can tell you in theory if you can do the same thing by pulsing power vs having it constantly on, you pulse the power. It increases MPG (even parasitic improvements are big when you take into account 300,000 or more vehicals), it will effect emissions, and who knows what other reasons why subaru did it. you have to remeber these are TWO differnt generations of cars. You really cant compare cars like that. now if they were both the identical car and the same thing happened, then i would say you MIGHT have a problem. Also as i said before you are not using the system as designed so even then it may be within design tolerances. Functionally you have no issues, realistically the cars are differnt. Computer algorythems change from year to year, and subaru recalibrated the 4wd between gen1 and gen2. Its working fine. nipper

Also your talking a 90 vs a 96. There can be HUGE differences in the programs between the two cars, you dont know. nipper

If the computer see it has caught up it will disnegage. you have alot more slip in one car then the other, but also your doinf something that is not normal, you have the tires in the air, there is no reisitance against the tires, and the speed that your seeing at the wheel is actually double at the driveshafts when the car is like this. Did you rev the other car with wheels in the air

because yours is newer. Things dont operate the same new as when they are old, but they can wear and still be in tolerance. You can put in a new wiper motor, and have a car with an old wiper motor, it may run slower, but it still is ok. The clutches are designed to slip. The newer ones have less slip then other when freewheeling. ALso when was the last time you changed fluid in the tranny/ nipper

Do you mean the factory service manual? If your not a technician it can swamp you, you may be better off with a lesser manual to translate. i can go either way without seeing the way the car dies, does it cut out oor does it putter out? nipper

thats right Its working fine. The duty c solenoid varies the torque split from 10-50%. It does this by pulsing on and off, with 50/50 being fully off. This is what your seeing. Your not going to get full application 50/50 since that is decided by the driveshaft speed differential between front and rear driveshafts. Also if the speed differnce is too great, the computer (which is not dumb) will dissconnect the AWD to protect itself. nipper

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4039 shold be in the same place, soobys dont change much nipper