nipper

ill know next week for sure as ill have about 100 miles on the car by then. But im surprised the hiccup went away. nipper

It specifically said it cleaned and protects fuel gauge sendors. My next step was to buy new senders. Driving around town i dont mind not knowing whats in the tank, as the light works. On the highway i want to know nipper

Ever since i had my 98 obw in 100 miles my gas gauge would be on empty. I tried all the tricks to clean it nothing worked. I also had this odd hiccup while stopped at a traffic light (automatic). Well i dumped in a bottle of Techron Concetrate plus. Filled up the car and it sat with a full tank over night. 38 miles later the gauge is a hair below full. The hiccup is gone. The idle (which was smooth) got even smoother. Now this may not work with everyone, but its the best 8.00 i ever spent. nipper

ive always filled up the cooling system with the car running and thermostat open(thats how dad taught me), In all my soobies ive never had a air pocket. Another popular method is to drive the car on ramps and fill it. i think your owners manual will point out the bleed points, if not somone wil chime in. i think there is a bleed valve on the top of the radiator, not sure. nipper

Seat heater switch not realted, its just a burned out bulb. Go to radioshack and replace the bulb. There is a fuse to the rear outlet, also there is realy. Somone will chime in on this. nipper

Yoe changed the thermostate? go back and get an OE thermosta if you didnt install one. Next get the airpocket out of the engine, thats the cause of your trouble. Why did you change the T-state in the first place. What year is this car. Another possability is a cloged radiator or low on coolant. Good news is that since you have hot heat its not a Head Gasket. Are your cooling fans operating nipper

Take a volt meter to the connection first and see if you have 12 volts. If you do then its the physical connection, if you dont you have to trace it back to the relays and further. nipper

One of the reasons why cars dont swim very well, Drowning is very ugly. nipper

run do not walk to a subaru dealer. Get the additive put in. I dont know where the cutoff is but the additive gives you the 100,000 mile warrenty on leaking head gaskets. Basically it is stop leak, but get it from subaru and let them record it. nipper

That is too lowi would figure your cut is around 400.00 since it should be about 2 hrs more then a head gasket change. Make sure everything is in writing, and that there is a subaru warrenty on the work. nipper

Pull the codes to help us out a bit. Unles there is the odd vacume hose not connected. nipper

hrmmm there is the ever famous hose under the airbox that always seems to be the root of mysterious problems like this. Look closely around the airbox and see if you missed a hose. Knock semsor can make driveability issues. if it is realy the knock sensor its not that expensive (buy it yourself from https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html ) then have the mechanic install it if you cant yourself. It can affect the way the car runs (in a big way) and i would replace it. nipper

No we are not talking about turning, we were talking about tire sizes and rotaional speed. i was trying to explain how tires roatate at different speeds and the system will allow ofor SOME SHORT DURATION speed differnces of up to 20% (do the math thats not alot of differnce). That is why the system can only tolerate a 1/4 inch variation in circumfrecne of tires. In a traight line exceed that you will fry your clutch pack or your center differential, its that simple. Also playing with tire inflation to match circumfrance can be dangerous. Another possability is (this is on paper only i am not condoning this at all) is to have two new tires on the same side of the car. Assuming the older tires are the same wear, this would cause the front and rear drivshafts (yes there is a driaveshaft in the front, technically its the transmission output shaft but for sake of argument its a driveshaft). Now if you have a visous lsd you may burn out the lsd. A mechanical LSD should be able to tolerate this small diffenence in wheel speed. Best thing to do is either by 4 new tires, or have the replacemnt tire shaved. you can get four used tires and measure the circumfrance off the car and match them up also. nipper

Rear LSD only affects the two wheels on that axle, and it doesnt affect the equation at all. Now if the rear axle was locked, then it would have a huge affect. A limited slip (mechanical or viscous) still allows for the wheels to turn on corners. nipper

i did that purpously. See we need more information, same as you would want from me. How many miles are on the car. What kind of tranny. There are a few 100 reasons the CEL can come on (some without any symptons). Without knowing the code(s), or any of the symptons (if any) we really cant help you. nipper

Yes. nipper

sounds like the rheostate in the knob has seen better days. Not sure since i havent seen one of these. nipper

It could be electricla in nature also. Get yourself a haynes manual, as the a/c system is slightly more complicated then one woutld think (nothing you can't tackle). nipper

you didnt purge the lines of air? You should of also held the can upside down to help get all the liquid/gas out at the end. How is it blowing now? nipper

not a problem im begining to think thats a commone (but rare) failure mode. And since its a postal vehical, the mastercylinder may be worn out. Your MC sees almost 10x's more stops then a normal master cylinder. nipper

thats only if you go straight forever. Once you turn the front wheels you have four tires running at four differnt speeds, feeding two driveshafts. But hey, its not my 1000.00 dollar repair if you decide to do this to the car , and not my car you going to bang up so have fun If your talking about this for s**t and giggles thats fine, but for driving in the real world, i strongly advise against it. nipper

This is for a raio controlled car but its the best explination i can find http://www.rctek.com/general/differentials_basics.html Your simple logic is right, but you forget the front wheels turn. therefore the front axle covers ground at a differnt speed then the rear axle. try this too http://auto.howstuffworks.com/four-wheel-drive.htm http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18 AHA http://www.trucktrend.com/features/tech/163_0206_four_wheel_drive/ Why Differentials? If we didn't have to turn and weren't concerned with noise and tire wear, trucks wouldn't need differentials. But every time a truck changes direction, the front wheels scribe a larger arc than the rear's, and the outside tires do the same relative to the inside tires. This can be accomplished without differentials, but makes steering difficult and locks everything together. A differential allows wheels to operate with some independence, so that the inside tire doesn't travel the same distance as the outside tire or the rear tires the same as the front. In turn, the tire doesn't bark while it turns in place and the truck doesn't feel like it's trying to jack itself up (often referred to as "binding" or "driveline windup"). and better http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/def_turnfull.html (explains differnt wheel rpms) i should have looked for these first this way i wouldnt have to explain it

Ford was going to do this on thier f250's but they droped it because it was expensive, noisey and heavy. Hydraulic pumps are not quiet. http://www.designnews.com/article/CA220671.html nipper

Squirt oil in the cylinders. Dissconnect the ignition wires, crank the engine Then start it up. Wou may have rust in the sylinders, as they are steel sleeves. WOuld prefer you to try to turn it by hand first with the plugs out to make sure the rings arent stuck. nipper

It should dry itself out with time. Did you use a hose or high pressure? nipper