nipper

Turn up the radio? its going to be a vacume leak of some kind. At 15mph ist not fats enough to be a wind noise. Are you sure its a whistle and not more metalic? is it speed dependent or rpm dependent? what happens if you pop the car in neutral at speed, does it change at all? WHere is your antenna located? any aftermarket lights or body dodads on the car? nipper

One of the fastest ways to kill an automatic tranny is to have a very light foot. Old ladies are good for killing automatics. A light foot makes the clutches slip far longer then they should normally, they overheat, and thats it. I really doubt that a tranny flush would do any good at this point. ONce you completly loose a gear, its game over. Why not get a rebuild or a used tranny. nipper

What do you mean by shift lock button. i am assuming you dont mean the button that allows you to shift between positions on the PRND321. I think you may have a bad brake light switch or relay. The shift lock is made up of the brake light switch, a relay, a switch in the release button, and a solenoid. The brake lights not working when the solenoid is supposed to be working is very telling. nipper

Well autozone does it for free. Any shop that touches the car will be charging a 1 hour minimum fee unless posted otherwise. nipper

i'm sticking with an ignition problem if you want to bet nipper

except for the minor detail that they stop at 1998 nipper

Subarus are giant legos, they dont change much Here is how it works in a 97/98. You should have 2 screws in the arm rest and one at the door release. Remove the trim panel behind the outside mirror inside the door, it pops off. Start at the bottom of the door with a long screwdriver. there is usually one button style clip in the corner, and work your way around. Pop one at a time. Everything is plastic so they are fairly robust. Lift the panel off the door. Disconnect all harnesses at this point. Installation is the reverse. Hope that helps. nipper

On the older forums, this is called the tick of death (don't know why). When was the last time this thing had an oil change. Also it may be worth while to throw an oilpressure gauge on the car and see what your readings are. after you check your oil journals. If you have a long dowel or scredriver, you can use it as a stethascope and get a better idea where the noise is coming from and what it sounds like. nipper

im going to guess ignition cables. This is A typical of tired wires. Car sits overnight, humidity collects on the wire. Go to start the car in the morning, its hard to start. After the electricity has leaked out of the wires, it evaporates the moisture, then the car starts. My 2 cents nipper

For the dash light, check the rear brake sockets. Also have somone look at your front parking lights, they may be coming on too. I dont remember if the imprezza has a seperate turn signal light or not. Check the rear bulbs, and sockets. You are getting a backfeed through the brake somehow circuit somehow.. Remove the bulbs and see if it goes away Then replace one bulb and see what happens. The radio, check the pins and see if its a short in the radio or the harness. There is a constant power feed to the radio so you have a memory. There could be a crossed wire there. nipper

if your pedal isnt pulsing, and steering wheel isnt oscilating when breaking, your rotors are fine. nipper

Harmonics can be a b***h to figure out. When was the last time the car had a clutch done. This can be anything from a heat sheild to the beginings of a pilot bearing. Pop the hood and make sure everything is tight. Get under the car and shake all the heat sheilds. Does the sound increase with speed. Since it seems to go away when you take your foot off the gad pedal, its related to load. Can you be driving on surface streets for an hour and not have it happen, then get on the highway and it does ? Since i cant hear the car overnet are you sure its not pinging. Next time it happens check to see if you can feel it in any of the pedals, the floor of the car or the steering wheel. I think it may just be a heat sheild rattling when things are right or some leaves or dirt in the heater box. nipper

Its a bulb from radioshack, the same bulb that goes into the climate control. The radioshack bulb also lasts longer and is cheaper. nipper

Wen i put my pioneer deck into my 97obw i used the crutchfeild adapter. That only left the power antenna to figure out. When i was using the sooby wireing digram from the haynes manual, for some reason it did not reflect reality. Worse case scenario is to temprarily run wires from the head unit to the door speakers to see if the speakers even work. If they do then its either a wiring issue, or the wires themselves. With the door panels off you can take a meter to the wires end to end to see if a wire is open. Thats what i had to do. nipper

its a Ej25 i beleive. In a 2006? i doubt it as they have not been around long enough to find out. i know the 6cyl looks like it is developing a tensioner issue, but havent heard anything about the 06 fours. nipper

er um. Unless your walking to where the car is, give it a jumpstart. Unless you put stable or something in the gas there is no guarentee the car will start or not either way. ALso its dangerous to pushstart a car that has sat parked for 7 months (even if you could), as you dont know what has dried out, what has russted, what still works and what doesn't. nipper

er um. Unless your walking to where the car is, give it a jumpstart. Unless you put stable or something in the gas there is no guarentee the car will start or not either way. ALso its dangerous to pushstart a car that has sat parked for 7 months (even if you could), as you dont know what has dried out, what has russted, what still works and what doesn't. nipper

Because the car can backfire and blow out the cat. ALso you can dump alot of unburned fuel into the cat and literally burn it up ALso you cant push start trannies since they dont have rear pumps anymore. Powerglides had rear pumps. Rear pumps disapeared around 1970's as extra unneeded weight. What you will do if you try is overheat the tranny. nipper

I would not suggest doing this drive, but...... OK so your going to have to limp home. Highway or backroads wont make that much of a differnce. What you DO need to do is change your oil. Since you over heated the engine once, the oil has been stressed already. If the oil gets overheated too many times, it will break down and you can loose the bottom end of the engine. WIll the drive be hilly or level. Have a fully charged cell phone, and a gallon or two of 50/50 antifreeze in the car. With any luck you have an intermittent problem so you can limp home, its possible that you wont even make it more then 5 miles before you boil over again. I've done a long drive with a sick car, and it is not a pleasant expierience. Last time i droive with a bad HG i loosend the radiator cap one notch. This allowed for the gasses to escape without pushing out the radiator fluid (but that was a ford escort). Take a local test drive and see what happens. good luck nipper

i agree with above. you have a air bubble in the system. Usually with a bad HG you have poor or no heat, and the temp gauge would climb higher then your seeing. nipper

Bleeding lifters/pumpin up lifters. The lifters are hydraulic, they get filled with engine oil when running.. Normaly one way of avoiding doing this is when you remove the lifters you submerge them in oil, to keep air from getting in. Hydraulic lifters are like little cylinders that have to be filled. i assumed that since you had everything apart and bagged, it was too late to do that. Its not that hard to do. Follow the procedure in the haynes manual (you DO have one dont you). The other option (which i dont like all that much) is to just put them in thier bores. Remove all the plug wires and crank the engine untill the oil starts circulating, and the valve train quiets down. Now there is no such thing as too much lubricant when you put the engine back together. Make sure the heads are completly clean. Use camshaft lubricant when reinstalling the cams. nipper

Buy a rebuilt caliper. Its not that much, labor saving, and if you got the caliper so hot that it was smoking, i would worry about the caliper itself being messed up. nipper

Ok with a timing belt you do watermpump, cam and main seals, tensioner. Do NOT have the clutch packs done. Since you had no complaint, there is no need to get them done. Also its going to cost you 750 today, or next week, it doesnt matter. First flush the tranny and ill bet whatever they perceive as an issue will go away. I am always suspicous of a dealership or shop that finds things that i was not complaing about. Torque bind is very obvious, i dont like the fact they recomended that. Ask yourself, do you leak oil? If you dont, dont do the plate unless you have an oil leak issue. The fact they "cant predict the future", then they are bulls*****g you . RUN from that dealership do not walk. They are trying to intimidate you. You can do all the front work yourself. The clutch pack i think is BS. Like i said flush the trannny, in an automatic 90% of the time that will clear up any issues, and your tranny will operate like a rebuild. RTV is a silicone sealant. nipper

My only complaint is my wipers icing up in the winter. Otherwise they like huskys, they are happiest playing in the snow. nipper

no need for a compression test at that point. If you can budget the valve job go ahead and do it, especially since you dont know what history of the car. On the torque its 70-90 inch lbs. In inch lbs it sounds like a huge spread in the book, but its actually 5.8ft/lb to 7.5 ft lbs. At this torque foot/lb torque wrenches are very inacurate, so inch lbs are used. I am very comfotable with what the book says. nipper