nipper

CV joints are in the two front half shafts. There are four in total that make the front driveline (2 cv per). There are four universal joints in the driveshaft that goes from the transmission to the rear differential. At the rear there are two more half shafts with 4 universal joints. These are basically trouble free.

If it wasnt one of those it would not have a drive shaft carrier bearing or universals.. No you can't Does it thunk when you move in one direction then go into the other direction ?

Is this an automatic?

Crank and cam position sensors only throw codes for faults while the car is running. Stalling do to a sensor failure wont throw a code as the car needs to be running. If the sensor misbehaves then it will throw one. These things are tough. Lest start with basics. Clean the battery terminals, make sure they are tight, and give the car a tuneup. That would goive us a good baseline to start.

Never keep heat shrink tubing in a car parked in the sun in summer either. Make sure you grab the temp sensor too as that can be hidden in the cowl, fender, bumper or grill.

U joints and carier bearing for us mortals involves replacing it with a used unit form a scrap yard. Doing it at such a low speed is telling you that it is about to fall apart so do not drive the car untill it is checked out.

oOuld be a bad gauge or cluster or voltage issue. Keep this set up for a month and lets see what happens.

Then lets back up to what the initial error was, what did you do or try to do? to the dash

They operate in series, a very primative variable resistor. I will tyr to find the specs but usually they just get a layer of sulphur on them and they loose accuratcy (such as it is to begin with).

SUbaru gauges are refernces and not bible, however they read empty early so they wont strand you, and for the most part the low fuel light means low fuel. They use two senders oner right (with the fuel pump) and one left. Usually putting in a can of texron is the first attempt to a repair. Second is to take the senders out and clean them with a #2 pencil eraser gently.

Maybe your too new to be allowed to do it. nipper.dawg@gmail.com

SKip Rockauto as they may not know about it (but may be able to sned you a matching one) I would call MOOG and ask

Freom what I can see, they look differnet, but the critical areas and function are the same. I bet one is either a in house production run vs a vendor supplied part OR a production change to save costs. Or a mistake. I would call them.

prvt me your addy, it will be between 5-10.00 (I'm guessing closer to 5.00. I have no issues with shipping first and you paying later.

IM still goping for a trifecta flex plate rod knock and something to be named later. As I always say, if your going to blow something up go big, and this sounds like it has gone big. It is not truly big through untill the connecting rod tears a little hole in the hood insulation

hrmmm. I slept on this over night and I think there may be a simplier more elegant solution. A throttle kicker solenoid. An IACV can be blocked off on performance applications with no issues. A throttle kicker does the same thing as an IACV for your purposes but without plumbing. It just kicks the throttle open a hair to compensate for load. Many feedback carbs had this. My Justy has one.

SIlly question, was this a custom intake manifold so it just wasnt used ?

The picture of the cracked flexplate was on a running car, so they can run and start.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133453&highlight=Flex+Plate With a pic!

Since this is not a ton of money here, may be only one way to find out

Some background on what you want to do http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/IAC.htm not sure if that will help.

How did he blow it?

IM going with a flex plate, but like i said the rod bearing noise is an easy test to do. Also there is the usual disclaimer, that noises are hard to diagnose over the net, so GD may be correct. I may be correct, or we may both be correct.

Back in the day when a manual got better mileage then an auto