nipper

Pull down that manual from that page, it is the FSM. Look it up there. I could tell you but where is the fun in that

http://downloads.bustedfingermotorsports.com/ Pull your FSM there. Well yes it is a Neutral Saftey switch, Subaru calls it an inhibitor switch. It tells the puter where the shifter is (besides the middle of the car)

that it?

I'm beging to think your NSS harness is not happy. I was suspecting that with the low starter signal, but now even more so

http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/OBD-II_Scan_Codes.pdf every code known to man

If everything was changed I will rule that out. Usually when you get a bunch of codes you look for the common denominator. Get me the codes and I will see if I can hunt it down to the plug or plugs that may be the issue. If this happened without the blower motor repair I would take a different tact, but now I am going with this line of thought.

http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/OBD-II_Scan_Codes.pdf Thats from NASIOC "With help from Jon (in CT), I've put together a PDF file of all SAE OBD-II codes AND those that are OEM/Subaru-specific codes. It's about 90 pages long, and the PDF file has bookmarks to ease navigation. It'll come in handy for those with an OBD-II scan tool."

PO137 - O2 circuit low PO1518 - starter switch low PO 851 - May not even exist PO1152 - Not a subaru code PO1153 - Not a subaru code Those other codes dont seem to exist, they arent listed in my FSM, or on any internet source. Get those codes read. But right now with the two codes that are there (which I only have faith in the starter one) is telling me it is still a harness issue as the harnesses for the car go through the passenger side wall.

The car is not going to run that badly after disconnecting the battery, this has nothing to do with ECU TCU memory, otherwise we would all have cars that run like junk after installing a battery or clearing codes. You only need to disconnect the battery for a minute or two. The TCU memory for driving pattern clears after each drive cycle and learns in about a mile or so. This would not cause stalling, driveability issues or goofy shifting. It is possible that maybe the ECU or TCU have gotten damaged, but I am not too confident in that yet. One moment it worked, he changed the blower motor, then it stopped working (running well). This leads to the theory of going back to everything you touched, check the pins, make sure they all are fixed inside the plugs, and good solid plug connections. Since shift points are detremined by a few factors, including the engine vacume, so I want some input on that as well.

Worts I have done is pull off the rear bumper skin. My car is my daily driver so I tend to be a bit more restrained when wheeling. We need to get NJsubaru in on this as he is good for .. Wait no pics from him as it is usually a transmission, engine or drowned computer.

Next is to see what codes are popping up. Lets back uo a bit and assume it is coincidence. How old is the timing belt.

Check all the bulbs

Did you ever go back and check the harness you toyed with

Temp sensor tells the puter how cold the car is, and the puter decides the fuel mixture on that. Since Your IAC is really gunky, lets fix one part at a time

Remove the bulbs and check them to see if there are any shorted filaments.. Lets start there

*making mental notes on who not to go wheeling with*

How about a loose or broken clamp Are the axles original ?

Im going with temp related. What is happening is either the Idle Air Control Valve is stickung open, or the engine temp sensor is dying. No start - not rich enough mix Start fine - well, everything normal Start with a miss - mixture is too rich. Since it is variable I would start with the IAC as that makes the most sense, like sometimes it sticks open, sometimes closed, sometimes fine. Engin temp sensor is fairly consistant once it gets a dead spot.

How about the CV joint? Easiest way to tell is clean the arear then take the car for a moderatly long drive and check it. Check the tranny lube level too.

still spray them it will happen again

Ice build up on the wheels can and will do this. Spray them with Pam that will keep it from happening. A 97 it could be other things to, but lets go with this s-n-o-w thing. Whatever snow is.

"So, I pulled the entire ac blower assembly, not just the motor. (removed the glove box, pulled the whole unit) When I removed it, the car was functioning fine, no error codes. I ran the car without the unit in place for a while, no error codes and no pro lems...other than I had no heater. When I reinstalled with a new motor I disconnected the connectors below the a-pillar because the wiring harness was in the way, I needed a little more give." That is the problem. Remove battery cable. Unplug that cable then plug it back in, connetc battery, see what happns. The issue is right there since it worked before you touched it then didnt after you did.

Just watching

What brand clutch did you use. Did you replace the throw out bearing clips? What condition is the hyd fluid in How many miles

Small claims court will be the only way to get your money back most likely.