golucky66

How long did you blip the gas up to 4k rpms? sometimes it can take like 3 or more minutes of doing that to get the air out. But if it is a restricted core, typically you need to replace it. You can try flushing

Yes, air in the cooling system. The heater core is typically the highest point or very closely to it (stupidly enough) on most subarus, and therefore any air in the system collects in the heater core. In my experience, typically a lack of heat only on the passenger size indicates a restricted core, but an air pocket in just the right side of the heater core could have the same symptoms. To see if there's air in the system, warm the car up. Once it's warm, while stopped in park, floor the gas pedal so the RPMs rapidly go up to about 3.5k or so. Then let it come back to an idle. Repeat until heat improves. This will indicate there's air in the system. To tell if it's a restricted core, just hold the RPMs up to like 3.5k steady in park. See if heat returns on the passenger side.

It's only single zone climate correct? Meaning, the driver and passenger cannot have different temperature settings? If so, it can't be a actuator as you have heat on the drivers side, just not on the passenger side. The actuator is working if you have heat on the drivers side. 2 possible issues. There is air in the heater core, or the heater core is restricted.

2012 Outback should have an FB engine, which is a timing chain. If it is a FB engine it does have the oil consumption "issue" that has a extended warranty. IMO. If it does consume oil, just get in the habit of checking it. And I believe on that vehicle it even has a low engine oil light. When it comes on, top off the oil. Very reliable engine besides the consumption.

Where did you hear about the rerun of OEM struts? Any link? Just curious.

I've seen a few Ac compressors around the 2010 age that fail. Either making noise and eventually blow up, or the clutch let's go. I wouldn't be too surprised it it just locked up. Imo, get it fixed by a professional. Doing A.C work the right way isn't for non professionals. Too much or too little oil will cause the new compressor to blow.

I think it's noteworthy that these cars aren't meant to run on E-85.* Just because it can, and might've coincidentally fixed the misfire, doesn't mean you should do that. *on a stock vehicle

On off roaring with any of the new CVTs, the ECM basically cuts power to the wheels for some stupid reason. You can try turning off traction control, but that only helps so much. It's unlikely it's an engine lack of power issue, and more of the computer not letting it be under full load.

I've seen that exact thing on a 15 Outback Limited. I honestly have no idea why it does that or if it's normal or not. All I k ow is that every time that car comes into my shop for an oil change. The screen has that.

Unplug the solenoid and sensor. Remove 4 bolts and it's off. Super simple.

If you're concerned about it, replace the AVLS gasket. Get an OEM one or a metal style aftermarket. 5 bucks or so and it should take you 15 minutes or less. They leak over time.

Wider tires to a point have less traction in snow because there's less weight per square inch on the tire. But just because the rim diameter is bigger doesn't mean the width is. My 18' Limited Crosstrek has 18" rims and the width is nearly exactly the same as the 17"

Did you bypass the heater core yet and drive it?

Bypass the heater core. Restricted heater cores can reduce coolant flow to the back side of the t-stat not allowing it to open.

If you only run the external cooler and not through the radiator it will take the transmission significantly longer to warm up especially on the cold days here in CT. These transmissions don't typically have an issue were they fail due to them being overheated (excluding the SVXs lol) so running an external cooler doesn't really do much but hurt fuel economy due to the increase in warm up time. The transmission fluid going through the radiator actually helps warm up the transmission with the heat transfer from coolant.

highest mileage FB engine i've seen is 140k miles, and haven't seen a bearing failure yet.

Ignition switch...?

You can do the HG in the car without removing the engine. Any shop that specializes in Subaru's that do high quality work will more then likely remove the engine to do it. It doesn't take any longer in the grand scheme of things, and you can to a much much nicer job or prepping the block surface, cleaning out the bolt holes, and over all doing the job. Typically the plate in the bell housing should be resealed because they start to leak around the time of the HG failure. If you want the very basic "just replace the HG" yeah 1.5-1.7 is reasonable. But a complete job resealing the engine, New timing components and belt, water pump should be about 2.5k depending on location.

Manually close the latch on the hatch. Just push it in and it'll click. Car will think it's closed. Then when you want to close it. Hit the switch on the latch, it'll release it (just like opening the hatch in the first place) and you're done.

In my experience on a 2004 and 2006 Baja Turbo (same engine basically) they run around 197 F cruising. And upwards of 212-214 stationary until fans kick on and bring the temperature back. While 100 C might sound scary because water boils at 100 C. Remember it's coolant, so the boiling point is already higher naturally. And the pressure in the system (~ 16 psi) raises the boiling point even more. Now would 230+ F start to worry me, oh heck yeah. But cruising at 95 C (203 F) i wouldn't worry too much personally. As for why the fans come on at 95 C, I'm not to sure. What brand thermostat are you running? It needs to be an OEM or OEM style. Most aftermarkets don't open properly on these cars. And what temperature is it rated to open at?

You should consider and look at the new Ascent. It's got a 5k towing capability and multiple reviews of launching boats on paved and unpaved (dirt/mud) and the ascent handles both terrains fine.

He needs to monitor the A/F ratio sensor and downstream O2. Until he does that you have no idea what's going on inside the combustion chamber when it's acting up. It is rich, lean, or correct?

If the code is P0172 for fuel system too rich, it definitely can cause those issues. Start with checking fuel pressure. If it's too high, fix that. If you want to throw another part at it, it likely needs a A/F ratio sensor (upstream O2) and to reset the fuel trims.

What brand spark plugs, wires, and coil. What brand MAF

Let's start with the basics. Have you tried hitting the up or down arrow buttons on the bottom left hand side of the steering wheel? Those cycle through different menus where the digital speedo is. They're not on the face of the wheel. Theyre recessed a bit.