golucky66

Is the fluid level low? You could try bleeding any air that might be in the line. But if you have a leak, it'll need to be replaced. As for what needs to be removed, I'm not exactly sure. Depend some design and shape of the air ducting.

It's likely going to be a bad clutch master cylinder or slave (I typically just replace both together) The issue of having the push the clutch pedal down further and further, could be a cracked clutch fork. But likely the master.

It's either a 14 or a 17. Probably more likely a 14. But it seemed Subaru alternated between the two for a while around 2010+

You do not NEED to go back to the dealer for anything except free warranty work. The issue is, as mikec03 said. Quick lube places as well as chain shops can very easily mess up services. The best thing you can do is find a GOOD independent Subaru shop and go there for everything. And in my opinion and experience, if you don't replace that crush gasket every service, they will leak. But I don't go crazy tight. Just as tight as needed.

It's possible its a leak. But around the turbo is oil and coolant. Oil is obviously yellowish (when brand new) and the coolant is blue. I cant say if what I'm talking about doesn't "mix" with water. But I do know that last time I saw it, it was really deceiving.

95% sure it from water getting behind heatshields that are slightly rusty and the rust is discoloring the water. I've seen it before on random parts of exhaust where it look spike the exhaust is leaking gear oil (in color)

Just so you know. Get in contact with a Subaru ambassador and they can give you a certificate for 500$ off the price of a new car.

You're right. My apologies. Didn't realize the NA's didn't get the updated throttle bodies.

The Baja's all have electrical throttle body's. So if the throttle body was sticking it would have no effect on the pedal. As for the pedal. Get down there and spray some lube in there. It's possible it's sticking from age. Then after you spray it down, work the pedal back and forth with the car off so you can move it the full travel.

I agree with the above posters. Need to check the HG for coolant leaks. Though uncommon on the turbo cars, it is possible. There is also two coolant lines going to and from the turbo that can leak. And if you did your pressure check with the coolant hot/warm/anything above ambient temperature. When you put 20 psi in the system and let it sit. As the coolant cools off. It will naturally drop in psi as the coolant is expanded (when warm) and as it cools it "shrinks".

Turbo or NA?

While I agree. Look at all the domestic pick up trucks with 4x4. Most if not all of them now a days have "auto" so you as a driver don't even have to switch it to 4x4.it will do it for you. Subaru just did Awd as a default because no body is going to end up changing that switch except for the.1%

I have an 09 forester that I decided last storm to see how much it could take. I ended up stopping on about a 30-35 degree incline with 9-10 inch of snow (the bumper was plowing snow a little) and I turned off traction control and just gave it gas. I was spinning but I made it up the incline. I was quite in pressed. Though I did have brand new snow tires (non studded) I've driven my 85 brat is some deep snow and that handles great as well. Personally, I find the most important thing with tracking and traction in snow is tires, and a proper alignment.

When driving down the road, with enough airflow through the radiator. Yes. It will be lower. But when stopped, or in traffic etc. And minimal to no airflow through the radiator. The upper limit of "204" is the controlled by the fans.

One other things I forgot. Same as with my svx. I insured my 85 brat with them as well. I wanted 5k and they said they wouldn't go higher then 3 as the paint was in tough shape. So I painted it (rattle cans) and resubmitted for 5k and they approved it.

I know it'd a tad newer. But when I have my 94 svx, I had it insured through Hagerty for 7k. Ended up totalling it and they sent me a check for 7k.

In my personal experience. On an 09 outback and an 09 forester. Right after I did a HG job. The fans don't come on until 212/214 degrees. Then they're on high until the temp reaches 204 or so. I can't explain the issue with them not coming on until 217. But thats my personal experience.

Understood. I'd personally love the steering response leds. And the push button start is cool.

What goodies doesn't the premium come with? Its either sunroof OR eyesight right?

Welcome! I personally love the 2018 Crosstrek's. Wish I could afford one

Just as a comparison. The newer Subaru's all come from factory with a 390 CCA battery. Which turns the car over fine in the winter. I'm talking 2.0 and 2.5 NA's.

Woah. I thought they discontinued the 6 cylinders for the 2018 MY

On these newer cars, the fuel filter is in the tank. Part of the pump. No idea why Subaru would recommend replacing the "filter" as all it is is a mesh screen (fabric kinda) to prevent the pump from sucking up chunks.

Rear O2 only has slight correction on fuel trims. +/- like 3% total trims. So the downstream O2 alone can not cause fuel trims to be altered that much (28.1 LT) that high of a number points to what GD is talking about. Air is getting into the engine that isn't accounted for. Either from a bad MAF sensor not reading the proper volume of air Bad/ biasist upstream O2 (Air fuel ratio sensor on your car) Or from an air leak from somewhere after the MAF. In theory injectors not spraying enough can cause fuel trims to go up. But typically the injectors don't get clogged up in this fashion. If you're concerned about fuel injectors, it would be wise to check fuel pressure. As low fuel pressure would cause the ECM to command more fuel. But, again. It's likely one of the few GD posted.

I'm not sure what you mean by bucking and shifting at 30-40 mph. Having no gears the cvt should never buck nor "shift" I've driven multiple 2011 outbacks/legacy and never had those issues. As for your question. There is a Gen 1 and Gen 2 of the cvt. And the new cars definitely have the Gen 2. As for how it's improved over Gen 1.im not really sure.