golucky66

I'm pretty sure it gets changed with a button on the instrument cluster (at least all of the other cars do that) including my moms 17' crosstrek with eyesight. If I'm not understand your post fully, sorry. But I'm pretty sure the button on the cluster cycles through it's different display options.

Don't bother with a hybrid. Very short lived. Not many sold. So parts and repair in a few years is going to cost more. The 2018 crosstrek is supposed to be awesome. More room on the interior, better safety, suspension is supposed to allow a better ride. Reviews said that on the crosstreks, especially the 2018's have plenty of room for even larger people. But always test drive them all before buying.

So I'm assuming your Baja is naturally aspirated?

Yes a thread insert is going to be a much better option. And they're just as reliable (provided it gets done properly etc) But you can't just you a regular helicoil. They make special helicoils for sparkplugs. They get stacked in place to prevent them from coming out.

Extremely high rpm of 1.7-2.1k? I mean i understand what you're saying. But unless the cars sat for a long while, or you're using very poor quality oil, every component is going to have oil residue on it. Enough where its not going to cause damage until the oil flows. Cars have had a high cold idle for decades. Engineers wouldn't design the engine to blow up in 50k miles due to cold start, high idle, lack of oil. Tbh, i don't even know if the factory tune or scan tool can actually change cold start idle rpm.... Custom ecm for sure.

Oh man. I wish my shop was that nice.

Provided he has, or has access to a tester. Yeah that would be a lot quicker as the next step. Completely forgot about compression testing in this scenario. Love being able to turn around, open my toolbox, and have everything i need right there.

Fuel injector. Stupid auto correct. Yeah. I mean if you seriously think you noticed a difference after putting cleaner in... I don't know. Worth a shot.

Try swapping inspector.

My dads 06 Baja intermittently for about 3k miles would overheat when coming to a stop after driving for a while. It'd blow coolant all over the ground (because the temp went up too much) never got it red hot. But it turned out to be a HG. Hopefully yours is a fluke or something simple. But. Typically not

Not sure if it's required Tbh, if it isn't frozen in there, taking it out is just a better, safer option. If you leave it in, you risk damaging it. Even if it doesn't require removal. But a wheel bearing going bad on a 3 year old car? Already?

I probably could've explained that better. But this is why I'm a technician not a service writer. Lol.

Fluids expand and contract when exposed to heat or cold, it's just science there. So at 70 degrees F, the cooling system has 0psi (not including normal atmospheric pressure) And as the coolant heats up, it also expands. The system is (in theory) completely sealed. So as the coolant heats up, it expands, which generates pressure because there no extra room for this expanded coolant. It expands up to operating temperature 185-195 degrees F. And once its at that operating temperature, it doesn't expand anymore because it's not getting any hotter. Just hovering at operating temperature. The radiator caps open up at 16psi(?) and keeps the cooling system at a constant 16 psi. So say the cooling system gets to 16 psi under normal situations at 130 degrees F. Mow by removing the radiator cap, and completely dealing the system. You have another 50-60 degrees of coolant expansion until it stabilizes. Same volume (calling system size) higher temperature. Pressure HAS to go up.

One of the reasons that's not a valid test is because as the engine warms up, the coolant is going to as well. Thus expanding until the cooling system reaches engine temperature. So if you say put your tester on there cold,then let the engine warm up with it on there. The pressure is natually going to increase because the coolant expands. The difference, is when it should normally purge out extra pressure to the overflow, it can. Thus just increasing in pressure until something blows, or the coolant reaches operating temperature.

The Mistsuboshi and Asain kits are the only ones that I've found that come with quality parts anymore I and my shop avoid gates t belt kits like they're the plague. Not always ntn and nsk parts.

Just an fyi. You can literally buy an Asian T-belt kit off Amazon (at least on new EJ25) for low to mid 200's. Comes with again pump, NTN NSK parts and a mitsubishi belt. Imo, quickest and easiest way. You could probably source all the parts individually for cheaper. But at least for me, i don't have all that time to save ~20-40$.

The cost of timing belt job adds up real quick when you use high quality parts and have a good and trusted technician working on your Subaru. So think about that. Even you just said about 300$ in parts (before coolant) and a midas is only charging ~800$ for the job? Kinda scary what they're using. Or worse, paying the "technicians" to replace such an important part of your car.

My Subaru customers have no problem paying 1100-1200$ for a t-belt job because they know were going to take care of them. Use the highest quality parts, spend the time and make sure they won't have the issue. And if they do, and something does happen to fail. They know were going to stand behind our work without question. If that belt breaks due to something that we messed up on, on install. Or a part fails, were going to take care of you. In my area, there's literally no good Subaru shops. Even the dealers are absolute garbage and we get at least 1 customer every week or two because they went to the dealer and weren't happy. I completely agree with you though. I just did two timing belt with the same parts for family friends and total (they also payed me) was 500$. Much much cheaper for the same quality job. The biggest thing to always remember. Would you rather pay 20% more and know you have a highly skilled and capable technician, and a shop that's going to warranty the job without giving you the running around if it fails? Or go to a midas for 800$ and have no idea wtf is going on under those covers.

Even off Amazon, the Asian t-belt kit is around 250$ i think we can get it from woldpac for around 300. The serpentine belt on the newer cars (the ones that have 1 belt) is about 38$ for a good brand. Cam and crank seals ~10$ for the 3 we use Pentofrost OEM specific coolant (blue on 09+) which costs us about 28$ a gallon. Plus labor time is about 4.4 hours. And my shops labor rate is just about 110/hour. Now take the parts, mark them up, which is what happens in shops. ~500 in labor ~350-400$ in parts before mark up. Total 850-900 before parts markup, waste coolant disposal cost, shop supplies like brake clean etc. And typically misc hardware, hose clamp, bolt. Etc. I will admit, we do not remove and inspect oil pumps because we have never seen an issue with them either leaking or with the screws on the back. But we work on 08+ typically.

If you have a lift. Always the transmission. Without a lift. Never done it. It's a toss up. If you don't have an engine hoist or a come-along. Idk how you'd get the engine out. But, if that car has the engine motor mounts on the transmission. Yeah. Engine is probably easiest. I know the legacy's FB25 have the motor mounts on the transmission bell housing. Not sure if that's because of the global plateform, or the FB25

In 2009MY Subaru went to a new blue colored coolant, from their previous green color. I'm nit exactly sure what the difference is on a technical standpoint, but that id the year that everything was changed to blue from factory.

Just looked up locate to confirm. It does appear its in the general vicinity of the radio (under it of course) Also,i did a quick search on alldata community, identifix, and iatn for DTC 21 (air bag) and no one has posted anything about this issue. I'd suggest if you can get your hands on a scanner that can communicate with the airbag module, to clear the code. And go from there. If DTC 21 comes right back..yeah, I'd say its the module, as per trouble tree. If it doesn't come back. Good. Intermittent fault.

Manufacture error code 21 related to airbag is for a faulty air bag module. Just looked up test procedure. And it literally says "is DTC 21 set?" Yes? "replace air bag module" Like. What...? What kind of trouble tree is that? Anyways... I don't really know how to help you there. But no a general OBD2 scanner will not be able to read air bag codes. The only way to get air bag codes is to have a scan tool that can emulate the Subaru software and get into the airbag module directly. A generic OBD2 only scan tool can only read OBD codes from the ECM. Now of said scanner has an option to enter vehicle info (i.e. 08 Subaru Tribeca) then your chances are slightly higher. But in my experience, airbag modules are one of the hardest to find an aftermarket scanner that will communicate. I believe the airbag module is under the radio in the center of the dash. Either that or almost right under the shift selector.

^ agreed So much. Do NOT have the timing belt down by a chain shop. Please. Find a good Subaru shop and as tom said. Make sure they use good quality parts. 825$ is not enough to do the job right imo. Depends where you live. But my shop in CT charges 1200 for a COMPLETE timing belt job. Idlers, tensioner, all seals, belt, water pump.

At that point. Itd be easier to swap a manual tranny in to an auto car with the sunroof. Provided you're in a free state.