golucky66

It's probably the clockspring. That's the most common to get messed up when pulling a dash. Does the horn work? Read the codes (I'm not sure how on a 95) Check all the connectors that they're good.

2.5 SOHC is going to be NA. 2.5 DOHC is going to be turbo. For a 2007 MY

I've never heard if a tbelt kit coming with drive belts. At my shop, we use only Bando and or Mitsubishi belts. Not to say others don't work. Just what we've had luck with.

Aisin comes with 100% Japanese parts at least on all ones I've ordered for n EJ253

Vdc would likely come on as traction control comes on whenever the mil is set.

See. The funny thing for me is that in most of my experience with removing brake hoses and or replacing the caliper is that 95% of the time the new copper washers leak, no matter how tight i make it. I've reused the old ones dozens of times after failed attempts with new washers. That's just my experience. I know you're supposed to replace them. But reusing the old ones are better then them leaking.

So if i could bring up a question here. A lot of other Japanese car manufacturer use 5w20 in most of their cars for a long time. And now most of them switched to 0w20 for obvious reason. But if they have successfully used 5w20 on their engine and most of them make it 200k+. Are we talking there's an issue with subarus design that doesn't allow them to use thinner oils without compromising longevity. Because the only real difference from 5w20 and 0w20 (assuming brand and quality of oil is the same) is the cold viscosity... And while i realize cold starting and running until the engine reaches operating temperature is tough on the lubrication system etc. Does the issue truly lie with the oil. Or subarus design not truly factoring in the 0w20 & longevity.

We'll see if it's true or not. But I've heard from my oil distributor that select Honda and Toyota engines are going to come factory filled with 0w16 for this model year. Not all of their engines. But like one or two. Either way. If you filled a 0w16 engine with 0w20 is it actually going to matter?

My moms 2017 crosstrek is going in soon to have the radio replaced due to similar issues, and loss of functionality. So i wouldn't be too surprised if it was the head unit again... There's a lot of technology in those radios and if anything hangs it can cause the whole unit to crash until a reboot.

In terms of when the car is under warranty 3/36, i wouldn't run anything but 0w20 because if something happend to the engine, they'd try to blame it on the wrong oil viscounty and your probably be out a couple grand. After that. Use whatever the heck you want. And if the tolerances are truly the same, like the manual says. Then i feel its 95% to do with fuel economy. Either way. High quality oil has more impact on your engine the the weight.

Snap on makes a very similar ratchet same angled bend etc. Not sure if the handle would swap, but i know snap on makes a very similar one if you went to buy a new one.

GD, slightly off topic question. On the EJ series engines. As they develop oil consumption with age. In theory would you notice a difference in fuel economy? Or does it not make a difference because it's the oil drain back holes in the piston that create the issue.

FB is the engine code for the newer engines. Previously it was EJ. Foresters got the FB engine in 11' in the US Outback in 12 And not sure about when the imprezas got them as they have a smaller engine. Early gen FB engines had high oil consumption issues. Unless addressed by the dealer under warranty.

No problem.

At my shop we use the 7712 equivalent on EJ turbo engine. the 7055 goes on all EJ non turbos. Never had an issue Got one on my 09 Forester right now.

Had this happen when i bought my 04 Baja. Some shop replaced the rear struts and reused the original hats (250k miles on them) When i drove it 3 hours home, all i heard was a clunking etc. Did the rear struts and noticed the hat was basically in two pieces when i removed it.

Imo. If you ever get a knock sensor code. Inspect the harness. And then replace the sensor and harness if the harness is damaged. Honestly. They go bad after a while. 95% if people have sucess with cheap 10$ ones. But you NEED that code to go away. That will cause the ecm to add more fuel and retard timing.

It should be between the cold low and cold max when the engine is cold (so over night) or between the hot min and max after you've driven it.

While i agree the pump isn't isn't the primary issue. It could be weak causing the delayed start to be worse then it would be. You can have pressure without the adequate volume. So sure it gets to spec, but it might be working harder then it should because it's having a hard timing filling the lines with fuel. But if while it's running you're not experiencing running concerns above 4k rpms the volume is likely fine. Almost certainly ruling out tight pump itself. At this point. It seems like there's a leak somewhere. Injector, check valve, or external leak. Just got to find it

It's in the nature of the cvt to get to high rpms rapidly and then stay at a high rev without "upshifting" because there's no gears. So it will rapidly climb to 5-6k rpms if you're heavy on the gas. And as you let your foot off the gas, the rams will slowly drop until you're easy on the gas and at cruising speed. Can the boxer engine handle this? Absolutely. Don't worry about the rpms being high when you need power.

If it's a squeal. It's probably the belt that's slipping when the wheel is turned to full lock from the pumps bypass valve and high load.

Based off of all that info, my guess would be a combination of a weak fuel pump and or the check valve is leaking a little. But it seems a fuel pump is weak.

So typically if it leaks down it isn't always an issue. It could leak down to 0 psi but provided there's still fuel in the entire system (rail included) the pressure should skip up immediately when key is turned on. What i would do is leave the pressure gauge hooked up over night. See what it drops down to. Then in the morning turn the key on and see what the gauge does. If it very slowly or not at all (right away) climbs in pressure, you might have an issue with the pump itself ir the check valve. But if you turn the key on, pressure immediately spikes to 45 psi, and it still has a long crank. You can probably rule out fuel as an issue.

It leaks down by 10 psi or leaks down TO 10 psi? If it leaks down to 10 psi you have a leaking injector most likely (or a slowly leaking regulator) and the low fuel pressure is the reason for the extended crank. If it leaks down by 10 psi i wouldn't worry about it

Spec for fuel pressure using a 2006 Outback 3.0L as a reference car is: 48-53 without pressure regulator vacuum hose. 40-45 with it connected. Fuel pump shut off discharge pressure is 80-125 psi.