golucky66

^+1 Agreed. Slipping clutch.

They'll typically start clicking when going straight for a little while... Once that happens. The end is near. And the last thing you want is for an axle to blow apart...

You can buy the hub and bearing assembly on that car for a little more then just the bearing. Don't waste your time and money with the machine shop. Buy a hub and bearing and you can get it back together in an hour At least for me, time is more valuable then the money.

The situation you're in is tough. Realistically, all of the price and work you described seemed fair with the exception of the smoke testing. It seems a bit high on price. 150$ would probably seem more normal. But that's my opinion based on where I live. EVAP can be tricky to diag and unfortunately sometimes its a step by step process. If the canister was truly leaking. And say setting a large leak code. None of the other tests for evap will run. Such as small leak. Before you panic. Bring it back and see what they say the code is. And bring it back here first. Don't pay them to re-diag anothe evap code right away. We might be able to help.

So just want to throw this out there. I'm not sure about the EJ22 (only worked on that engine once) But on the EJ251/253 where the coolant for the heater core flows from the crossover pipe, through the heater core, then to the nipple on the water pump. In this case, a restricted heater core can cause an over heating condition. (had it happen to two different EJ253's) When coolant goes through the heater core, that hot coolant from it then goes to the water pump. And because where the nipple is on the water pump, it's directly behind the thermostat. If not enough hot coolant is able to make it through the heater core. It won't keep the thermostat warm and keep it open. Once the thermostat closes...well over heating happens. On the two car that i had this issue with. Low RPMS, temperature would spike. Give it gas (above 2.5k) temp goes back down. All while stationary, cruising. Literally didn't matter. Easiest was to rule it out, is as other said and you planned to do. By pass it. But i wanted to share my experience that yes, a restricted heater core can cause an over heating issue.

The front diff dip stick is on the passenger side. Way down there on the transmission. The drivers side is the atf.

Both cruise and VDC are on because of the check engine light. Is it related to the battery, after a week? Probably not. You should get the codes read, then post them here so we can better help you.

They don't go for more then about 5k unless is near perfect condition. Even then 8k on a good day to the right buyer. Maybe.

I hope that price tag isn't serious.

So after an in-depth discussion in another thread a few weeks back about 0w20 weight oil in the new FB engines. I did some more research about the 0w16 weight oil I brought up in that discussion. The 0w16 weight oil is here in the USDM for select few 18' MY Toyota's (It was used as early as 14' in JDM on select Honda's) The OE manufacturer for this factory filled oil is Eneos and from my research one (if not the only) company currently making 0w16 (at least here in the US) This new weight oil is supposed to provided up to 2% better fuel economy (over 0w20) My reason for posting this isn't to discuss if it's good or bad for engine. I'm just a automotive technician, not an engineer or engine builder. So my experience is from following what the manufactures state. Toyota's are using this new oil, and Honda's already were in JDM. Not that I believe Subaru's are any time soon, with their recent change to 0w20 and added issues with oil consumption. I just wanted to bring it to everyone's attention that there is indeed 0w16 oil here and from my managers last checking (earlier this week) you can not get it through NAPA, WorldPac etc. (We haven't checked Advanced Auto and the other as we don't deal with them) We had to request it through our oil distributor, who then did some digging to find who he can get it from. Here's a link to the Eneos 0w16 oil. You can read all of it's "benefits" and also, the test data such as Flash Point and different viscosity at given temperature. http://www.eneos.us/products/eneos-fully-synthetic-motor-oil/eneos-0w-16/

Anytime AVLS malfunctions, it throws a code very shortly after.

Personally I'd say your results are normal. The Tribeca has more modules then any other Subaru of the same MY. And more things to power up because it's the "premium" car.

Cleaning the block's head bolt holes is by far the most important step in my experience. I typically spray out each hole with brake clean well, then blow it with compressed air - time each hole (just to safe) and never had one creak on me using 5w30 conventional oil

1) Clean the bolt threads and bolt holes in the cylinder block. CAUTION: To avoid erroneous tightening of the bolts, clean out the bolt holes sufficiently by blowing with compressed air to eliminate engine coolant ect. 2) Apply a thin coat of engine oil to washer and bolt thread. 3) Tighten all bolts to 40 Nm (4.1 kgf-m, 29.5 ft-lb) in alphabetical order. 4) Tighten all bolts to 95 Nm (9.7 kgf-m, 70.1 ft-lb) in alphabetical order. CAUTION: If Bolt makes stick-slip sound during tightening, repeat the procedure from step (1). In this case the head gasket can be reused. 5) Loosen all the bolts by 180°in the reverse order of installing, and loosen them further by 180°. 6) Tighten all bolts to 10 Nm (1.0 kgf-m, 7.4 ft-lb) in alphabetical order. 7) Tighten all bolts to 30 Nm (3.1 kgf-m, 22.1 ft-lb) in alphabetical order. 8) Tighten all bolts to 60 Nm (6.1 kgf-m, 44.3 ft-lb) in alphabetical order. 9) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90°in alphabetical order. 10) Tighten all bolts by 40 to 45°in alphabetical order. CAUTION: The tightening angle of the bolt should not exceed 45°. 11) Further tighten the bolts (a) and ( by 40 - 45°. CAUTION: Make sure the total "re-tightening angle" of the step (10) and (11) does not exceed 90°. Right out of the service procedure on AllData. Which I've used at least a dozen times.

40 amps at idle sounds really high. That would be with like headlights on (full) and other accessories like blower medium to high, radio etc... I could be wrong, I don't really ever have to deal with "normal" idle ampere draw. Just trying to remember from some odd ball training classes i've gone to and some cars I've experimented on.

With drls and your radar detectors and gps, 10ish amps is probably normally. Maybe up to 15.

Typically on most cars, with a good battery, and the system functioning properly. Without headlights (or drls) or any accessories, after about 3-5 minutes,the alternators output shouldn't be much more then 5 amps or so if i remember correctly. There's really no electrical load to keep the engine going. Power up modules, fire injectors and spark plugs, fuel pump at 33% or less duty cycle.

Normal depends in environment. If it's winter time where you live. It's normal to have blower maxed, wipers on (maybe) heated seats, mirrors, wipers, rear defrost, radio. All drawing 75+ amps. Which is completely fine. Because the systems designed to handle that load. Just not for extended periods of time at idle. They expect that load to be that high for maybe 10 minutes. All of which typically yous be driving the car. Not idling it. If you test your alternator at idle and can get ~75 amps out of it. Honestly,it's probably working fine. And just to be sure have someone load hold the rpm up, and see if you can get it to go higher. (in a shop environment, we can artificially add a load to the system and see what the alternator an peak at) subarus i believe have a 110 amp alternator. H6's might have slightly higher but still.

While i do believe there might be an issue with a failing or weak alternator. But i literally just installed an alternator on a 2006 Acura 6 cyl. (i know not the same brand) but max output of the NEW alternator was 75 amps at idle. That's actually a heck of a lot of amp for idle (~750 rpms) Vehicle truly aren't designed to have every accessory running for a long period of time at idle. They'd have to put 200 amp alternators on 4 cylinder engines just for it to output 100-125 amps at idle. And that's a HUGE load on the engine.

Only thing i can think of. On the rear calipers. See if the parking brake is built in to the caliper, or it still has the traditional drum in hat style. If it's for the brake in the caliper, you need to turn the piston while pushing it back.

And if you do use a can of r134a. For the Love of god, find a can that DOESNT have sealer in it. It can mess up 5,000$ a/c machines and cause the shop to need to have to call someone out to service it. And your car isn't fixed. The right way to deal with sealer in the system is to by special filters for the ac machine and filter all of the sealer out before proceeding.

A/C is one of those systems that its hard to diagnose and work on without the proper equipment. And 95% of DIY's aren't going to have it. You might get it to work, you might not. I'd recommend getting it to a A/C certified shop. But that's just me.

Is there a estimated date for the next one? Me and my girlfriend were thinking about going, and didn't realize this one was this close/this weekend.

Most likely an alignment issue. Could be weak struts causing the tore to bounce going down the road. But likely an alignment.

That sounds pretty bad. But we have no information on your driving habit, location, etc. Most of these FB25 that come into my shop, the fuel economy is around 27-31 mpg. And the FB20 those customers are getting 29-36 mpg. But then again. It varies heavily on driving habit. My 09 forester (with the old EJ engine) i can get 27-28 mpg out of it if i drive like a grandma. But if i drive it the way id naturally want to, i average 23-24 mpg.