golucky66

Yeah, I'd definitely make a post looking for a Subaru mechanic in your area. That would be my best choice, just find a used tranny and have the shop out in the used one instead of messing with the front diff, ESPECIALLY if the shop doing the repair isn't similar with subarus. Unless they're similar with subarus they should not be opening up the front diff. Could you try to explain the noise it is making a little better or differently? Or maybe get a video while it's happening so people on the forums can listen to the sound to better help diagnose your issue?

I'm assuming you're talking about the front diff, as the actual center diff is part of the end of the transmission and that has no dipstick because it gets fluid from the regular transmission fluid. The front diff (for ease of explanation) is part of the transmission and in order to make any repairs to the front diff, the transmission would need to be removed and opened up. Other on this board have more experience with the front diff failing (as its common I guess...?) and could give you more insight as to the noises etc. Either way, Imo, if the transmission needs to be removed due to a bad front diff, just installed a used transmission instead of trying to repair it.

That's awesome! So glad they found it! Even if there are a new few dents, still better then losing it forever!

What year and model?

I had it happen on a Chevy once and just thought it was specific to Chevy or maybe domestic. But then my buddy who has a 03 wrx said he occasionally gets a flashing check engine light, and when I pull the codes, there are none (same drive cycle and with SSM) So I'm not missing any, there aren't any. At least according to the factory scan tool.

I've had a flashing check engine light with no misfire code before. I think it take a little bit to set.

Park/neutral switch could case intermittent issues like that. Assuming its an auto.

I'm pretty sure there's no "holes" because they were welded in. At least that's what the nubs looks like on my 85 Brat

In your experience, when doing that, what do you do when there's only 1 hole for the starter? Just use one bolt to hold it in?

Some engines have 4 bolt holes and some have 8 though I'm pretty sure Still mate up and hold fine. Just an fyi

I like the right stuff only because you can put it on like an oil pan. You can immediately fill it with oil and drive it. No waiting an hour or more to drive the car. (not sure if that's how the Nissan 3 bond works or not)

USDM that is. I think other countries had it earlier?

2011 Foresters got the FB25 2012 for Outbacks.

The trailer harness for the lights. 4 pin connector. You may or may not have the harness already installed that you can just plug into.

The fact that it spikes high for a second or two and then immediately drops to normal doesn't sound like an over heating to me (just my opinion) it sounds more like an electrical issue of some sort.

After you do that, if you still have issues, get your hands on a scanner and check the coolant temperature that the ecm sees. On my 04 Baja, the coolant temp sensor has two different wires, one for the ecm, and one for the gauge. If the gauge goes high and the ecm's temperature remains normal, you have a wiring issue. If they both go high, then the above posters comments are true.

I'd love to see a pickup style come back. But I feel like after the Baja, they might be afraid to bring a pickup into their fleet.

Unless it specifically tells you to, you shouldn't use rtv in conjunction with a gasket. In my experience, all the guys that I've seen do that, that component comes back leaking and I end up having to fix it the right way. If you are worried about the gasket being very thin or low quality, go buy a nice gasket off. Rock auto. I mean hey, at this point it needs to be replaced anyways.

How are the engine/tranny mounts? Year, model, engine, auto/manual trans would help everyone a lot.

Do you have access to a scan tool where you can monitor trans temp while driving and when the light comes on?

So far, it sounds like whoever worked on the car isn't...the best mechanic out there. So just from that I would stay away from it. But could you explain this "pushing" sound better?

So the engine overheated, and then all the work was done? I'm not miss reading this and you're saying, it had all that done and it recently overheated again?

The pressure in that line is whatever fuel pressure is. So 40-80? Nothing really high. Just get it replaced sooner rather then later.

Threads of the hose? If they're just starting to show or are showing but not chewed through, you're probably fine. Obviously change is asap, but it's unlikely to leak fuel right away.

Yeah. A replacement should have the disconnect. What I meant is you can't really just use any piece of hose, because of that quick disconnect.