djcommie

I have a Sedan/Wagon windshield that I totally forgot I had, and I have a fancy crate to safely ship it!

If you can find a hub for second gen cars, the splines are the same. I used a 1983 steering wheel in my 78 GL wagon.

I think that is the hole for the clutch fork on RHD cars. On a side note, I am sure that A/C stuff was brand new (though really greasy/dusty), but you could replace the compressor/condenser with more modern hardware and have good A/C. Have you sold the car? Have a link to the ad if you haven't?

I have collected at least 2 complete distributor+ignitor combos for the electronic ignition EA71s. I have both the Hitachi (external) and NipponDenso (internal) setups if you're interested. I sold my wagon, so I don't need them.

If the radiator is the same as a 78 wagon's, I have a freshly painted and tested one you can have for $25. It is only missing the fan switch, the one it had was busted. I have a fan shroud, but not a motor for it. You could probably fit a better than stock motor/fan in it.

I have a 78 4WD wagon and don't run the mechanical fan. I made sure my cooling system is in good shape, and use a radiator overflow bottle instead of the atmospheric dump tube. I live where its hot and do a 3mile 7% grade climb at 60mph daily and the car barely warms up.

If that is an EA71, its a Denso points style with single advance. I see PACE SETTER Part # C605Z may fit, it has holes and specifically mentions the Denso distributor. All the Hitachi units are clip on, and I even think the electronic ignition Denso units are clip on as well.

Email sent.

I finally got it through smog and the DMV, and put 1400 miles on it in 3 weeks on my 45 mile commute.

I thought they had gear drive cams, using a gear on the crankshaft and the one gear on the camshaft itself.

I'm not running the chrome strip on the winshield or rear glass and haven't had any issues.

I'll do a Google Sketchup drawing sometime with them, the interesting thing is that the outrigger (moustache bar) bushings are the same as the front hanger mount bushings. In addition to that part about the stopper bushings being the same as later cars, in addition to the fact that I could actually get the Gen 1 bushings might mean we don't have to make them except for performance versions of high durometer urethane.

I always wondered how you get all the vacuum advance/retard functions working properly with the Weber, and I guess the answer is you don't and just run on centrifugal advance.

I'll take the trailer hitch!

What would this all cost shipped to 93453: brown seat cover intermittent wiper box heater core (have whole box assembly?) key/lock set for wagon I could also use: heater levers/cables/controls (I only really need the mode setting plastic levers on top of the heater core that the cables attach) 2 door handle trim pieces interior panel on the wagon rear hatch (black)

I think the later EA81 cars are pretty similar with a worm drive mechanical parking brake. They are really an ancient technology 60s-70s caliper with those and retaining shims/clips. I don't think there's much to be gained with bolt-in newer calipers other than vented discs, which would be a good upgrade for cars with more power or more tire. I do some 'spirited' driving in the local mountains and haven't really overheated my calipers much, and they are original to the car.

Since I felt like doing mine, I ordered every bushing for my 78's rear eng and will be taking dimensions and such for them. I did find out that the 'stopper' end bushing for them is the same as the later cars, part number: 622010001. I'll get number and try to cross reference an existing part.

Throw in that Subaru badge and I'll trade straight up. You want the pair of heads?

I have 6 good EA71 heads if you want one/more. Note that the carbs are for the late EA71 cars, since they have vacuum secondaries. I'm interested in the Subaru logo ignition module, I think its for the Hitachi ignition. Also this bracket, which is for the air cleaner on the EA71 cars.

I'm in, both for purchases as well as the engineering side if we have to make/modify some. I'll get some dimensions and check the Whiteline Australia catalog for something that may work. If we only find 1 single good OEM one, we may be able to find something currently in production that may only require some cutting/trimming to fit.

M3 as I remember, about 10mm long. I can look at my spare and tell you for sure.

I'm going to go a different direction and say there's likely a reason for the engine running hot, the effect is ineffective engine cooling, not the cause. I'd check your plugs to make sure you aren't running lean. A post MAF air leak lets in unmetered air, you may have a bad oxygen sensor or a leak in the exhuast before the sensor, or maybe even pinging/knock from that possible lean mixture, which makes the engine temperature skyrocket and the cooling system wasn't designed to absorb and radiate that head. Also, check your ignition timing, I had a Daihatsu that ran fine but really hot on the freeway and had the timing 8 degrees retarded from stock, putting it back where it belonged fixed the overheating issues completely with no other repairs. You may have an issue with something else that isn't necessarily related to the thermostat or radiator like a clogged bypass, heater core, or kinked/collapsed hose. My experience with warm running engine while cruising is a mixture or ignition timing issue. Way retarded timing does that exact thing.

Buy my Gen 1: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/151799-never-got-around-to-posting-it1978-subaru-gl-wagon-4wd/ I drive it 48 miles each way to work, and is probably only second in operating condition to spicypeanut's Brat, which has a nice paint job.

I don't have any parking brake cable, unfortunately. Gopherbroke has the large multi-threaded parts haul on the Genn 1 Marketplace/FS forum. I have the factory front bull bar and its quite a bit different from that on.

You probably can just turn the adjuster to suck the shoes in from the drum, otherwise you'll have to remove the axle stub nut and pull the drum off. You probably had a wheel cylinder seize, once they travel pas where they normally do (expecially if its no travel due to age), they tend to tear the seal or jam the pistons on the rust. Expect to need new wheel cylinders.