brus brother

A gold mine!!! I arrived at the cave of the Moose with barely a steering wheel in hand and by the time I left, Meester Moose had nearly outfitted me with a new car! As Saddam said recently, "many tanks".

Check your email. I'll be available in the early afternoon but remember I have a weak back and mind.

Before I came upon the mud sloggin' head bangers on this site and potential for a Subaru afterlife, I gave up an 84 GL specifically because it only had lap belts in the rear seat and I had a young child graduating from a car seat. Safety tests have shown that lap belts alone cause serious abdominal injuries in children potentially severing the spinal column upon impact. While it is true that most of my generation survived a childhood devoid of seatbelts, some didn't! So, for off roading without safety concerns for kids in the back seat, have fun in the primitive cars but when it comes to being back on the straight and narrow, best to go for the most safety you can afford. If anything happened as a result of jerry riggin' a child safety seat etc., the result could last a lifetime... NO KIDDING!

I too eliminated that pesky fuel damper on my 90 Loyale just last month due to rust and leakage. The car runs fine and obviously will get better gas mileage having lightened the car by about 2 ounces of metal:D

...just a flesh wound...

Please check Vin# JF2AN52B2LF415339 My email: SUB2000@Juno.com Thanks for your time.

HeHeHe... Lap dancing with a Moose. Great imagery, LorryB. Yep, the notion of a high school car is certainly one to consider during those "learning" years of turning any rectangular car into an oval (deer or no deer). Glad to hear the lad passed the crash test.

how should i bend my bumper? ... sounds like you already did that!

OK let's bump this post back up to the head of the line because the question remains, why does the brake light stay on for 2-3 minutes after you start the car. Sounds like something is amiss in Missoula. Any comments from the cheap seats??

The full line is indicated on the container. It's just a little below where the threads end. Take off the cover and hold a light (NOT a flame from a match etc) behind the container and you should be able to see it. Just fill 'er up to the line and away you go. Of course you should check to ensure that you aren't leaking brake fluid (yikes) and that the reduced level results from standard wear on the brake pads that draw more fluid into the lines for normal operations.

Just did it this past weekend. The face of the piston has two slots facing each other. You can use needle nose pliers positioned in these slots and just turn it clockwise while pushing in so as to get the piston in. Be careful to ensure that the boot is out of the way when you check to see if you have got enough clearance with the new pads, I banged the boot between the pads and the piston and gave it a small tear... doh. I just posted over the last week so if you use the search function, you'll revisit my mishaps. The following sites are great for techniques. http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797.HTML http://www.geocities.com/matsut_rpi00/brake_fix.html http://www.endwrench.com/pages/archive.html

So, if I tried to change the pads without disconnecting the brake cable (even though the parking brake was not engaged) would that have any net effect on turning the piston in to make room for the new pads? Would the parking brake lever keep pushing the piston out as I was trying to turn it in? Have you changed pads without disconnecting the parking brake cable?

Where is the "thread" on the piston for front brake calipers. Since you have to turn them in to make room for new pads, there must be a thread somewhere but (?)probably not on the side of the piston? Is there a screw mechanism that engages the parking brake or what? I can't visualize it and can't locate a website that gives a clear picture of the caliper broken down.

... windshield washer hose?? I'll bet the residual brake fluid makes a helluva cleaner on the car after it's reconnected . As always the advice is much appreciated and you should all feel safer driving out there knowing I have brakes again!

Is there a preferred sequence for bleeding brakes on a 90 Loyale? Do you stomp the pedal hard for each wheel till it hits the floor?

Changing front brake pads 90 Loyale, I turned forever and the piston didn't ever seem to allow enough room for the new pads (the old ones on one side were completely worn while there was half the meat left on the other side)and then I realized that the piston was no longer threaded in place but was wobbling around?? So I pressed in while turning and it got back on the threads and I was able to get the piston in. In the process, I pinched and tore the rubber boot around the caliper piston. Is this just a dust boot? I noticed a small leakof fluid through the tear when the piston was wobbling around and hope that some fluid was getting past the seal at that point and once the piston was repositioned, that would be the end of the leak. Is it necessary to replace the boot? The other consideration is that this was the same side with excessive wear on the pads and should I assume that the piston was hanging up (due to leaking seal?) and therefore should consider replacing the caliper?

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797.HTML Here's a technique site you may find useful in repairs of ALL categories. I am no pro but from my reading on the old gen of subaru website it appears that water and oil pump(reseal at least and check bolts for tightness), cam seals and o-rings, front engine seals are usually attacked at the same time as the timing belts. If you use the search function on this website, there are certainly many posts on just this question.

I would check my neighbor to see if he was siphoning gas while I slept! I get a respectable 20mpg out of my 90Loyale AT.

hey slideways, my 90 loyale was leaking from the rubber grommets around the bolts that hold the valve cover gasket. Slid down and stinkeroo on the exhaust. A local shop had replaced the valve cover gasket and grommets but whatever non SOA part they used, all of the grommets leaked. Months later when I realized where the leak was coming from, the shop actually tried to charge me to replace their defective work (defective part). Sorry for venting. Anyway, I didn't see what car you were driving so just a guess.

I just had a leak on my 90 Loyale at the small ravioli shaped "noise damper" just beyond the fuel pump. Yes it was corroded from salt conditions here in the NE. Mine was a pretty steady drip and smelled like hell. I simply removed it and clamped on a straight section of rubber tubing. Runs fine, no smell and not appreciably "noisier". The replacement part would have been around $50 and the ole gal certainly has enough other age related rattles and other noise not to notice anyway.

Is it possible to overtighten the bolts? I don't have a torque wrench (though Christmas is coming) and I doubt there is enough clearance for a few of the bolts. So, is it possible by overtightening to distort the washer??

My 90 Loyale is leaking oil around the bolts holding the valve cover. Is there any sealant required around the rubber grommets/washers of the bolts that hold the valve cover on or do you just tighten them up? They seem to be tight enough. Too tight?The gasket was replaced by a local shop recently and I can't say whether they changed the washers as well but even the local auto suppliers sell a gasket kit with the washers like SOA. I bought the SOA kit over the weekend to redo the job myself (don't you just hate that) and I wanted to make sure that I do it right this time.

That vacuum line Miles mentioned has a connection at one point. That's where mine came undone. Reconnect and you should be toasty.

Dan Perkins website for discount parts is Subarupartsforyou.com. Ask for John. They MATCH the other web prices/shop prices.

Hey Trooper, You used the 2 quarts as a rinse while the plug was out, right?, but how much did you need to add to refill the tranny. Owners manual says 2 quarts to refill. Doesn't seem like you get too much of the total 6 quarts system capacity out of the drain pan technique.