brus brother

how should i bend my bumper? ... sounds like you already did that!

OK let's bump this post back up to the head of the line because the question remains, why does the brake light stay on for 2-3 minutes after you start the car. Sounds like something is amiss in Missoula. Any comments from the cheap seats??

The full line is indicated on the container. It's just a little below where the threads end. Take off the cover and hold a light (NOT a flame from a match etc) behind the container and you should be able to see it. Just fill 'er up to the line and away you go. Of course you should check to ensure that you aren't leaking brake fluid (yikes) and that the reduced level results from standard wear on the brake pads that draw more fluid into the lines for normal operations.

Just did it this past weekend. The face of the piston has two slots facing each other. You can use needle nose pliers positioned in these slots and just turn it clockwise while pushing in so as to get the piston in. Be careful to ensure that the boot is out of the way when you check to see if you have got enough clearance with the new pads, I banged the boot between the pads and the piston and gave it a small tear... doh. I just posted over the last week so if you use the search function, you'll revisit my mishaps. The following sites are great for techniques. http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797.HTML http://www.geocities.com/matsut_rpi00/brake_fix.html http://www.endwrench.com/pages/archive.html

So, if I tried to change the pads without disconnecting the brake cable (even though the parking brake was not engaged) would that have any net effect on turning the piston in to make room for the new pads? Would the parking brake lever keep pushing the piston out as I was trying to turn it in? Have you changed pads without disconnecting the parking brake cable?

Where is the "thread" on the piston for front brake calipers. Since you have to turn them in to make room for new pads, there must be a thread somewhere but (?)probably not on the side of the piston? Is there a screw mechanism that engages the parking brake or what? I can't visualize it and can't locate a website that gives a clear picture of the caliper broken down.

... windshield washer hose?? I'll bet the residual brake fluid makes a helluva cleaner on the car after it's reconnected . As always the advice is much appreciated and you should all feel safer driving out there knowing I have brakes again!

Is there a preferred sequence for bleeding brakes on a 90 Loyale? Do you stomp the pedal hard for each wheel till it hits the floor?

Changing front brake pads 90 Loyale, I turned forever and the piston didn't ever seem to allow enough room for the new pads (the old ones on one side were completely worn while there was half the meat left on the other side)and then I realized that the piston was no longer threaded in place but was wobbling around?? So I pressed in while turning and it got back on the threads and I was able to get the piston in. In the process, I pinched and tore the rubber boot around the caliper piston. Is this just a dust boot? I noticed a small leakof fluid through the tear when the piston was wobbling around and hope that some fluid was getting past the seal at that point and once the piston was repositioned, that would be the end of the leak. Is it necessary to replace the boot? The other consideration is that this was the same side with excessive wear on the pads and should I assume that the piston was hanging up (due to leaking seal?) and therefore should consider replacing the caliper?

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797.HTML Here's a technique site you may find useful in repairs of ALL categories. I am no pro but from my reading on the old gen of subaru website it appears that water and oil pump(reseal at least and check bolts for tightness), cam seals and o-rings, front engine seals are usually attacked at the same time as the timing belts. If you use the search function on this website, there are certainly many posts on just this question.

I would check my neighbor to see if he was siphoning gas while I slept! I get a respectable 20mpg out of my 90Loyale AT.

hey slideways, my 90 loyale was leaking from the rubber grommets around the bolts that hold the valve cover gasket. Slid down and stinkeroo on the exhaust. A local shop had replaced the valve cover gasket and grommets but whatever non SOA part they used, all of the grommets leaked. Months later when I realized where the leak was coming from, the shop actually tried to charge me to replace their defective work (defective part). Sorry for venting. Anyway, I didn't see what car you were driving so just a guess.

I just had a leak on my 90 Loyale at the small ravioli shaped "noise damper" just beyond the fuel pump. Yes it was corroded from salt conditions here in the NE. Mine was a pretty steady drip and smelled like hell. I simply removed it and clamped on a straight section of rubber tubing. Runs fine, no smell and not appreciably "noisier". The replacement part would have been around $50 and the ole gal certainly has enough other age related rattles and other noise not to notice anyway.

Is it possible to overtighten the bolts? I don't have a torque wrench (though Christmas is coming) and I doubt there is enough clearance for a few of the bolts. So, is it possible by overtightening to distort the washer??

My 90 Loyale is leaking oil around the bolts holding the valve cover. Is there any sealant required around the rubber grommets/washers of the bolts that hold the valve cover on or do you just tighten them up? They seem to be tight enough. Too tight?The gasket was replaced by a local shop recently and I can't say whether they changed the washers as well but even the local auto suppliers sell a gasket kit with the washers like SOA. I bought the SOA kit over the weekend to redo the job myself (don't you just hate that) and I wanted to make sure that I do it right this time.

That vacuum line Miles mentioned has a connection at one point. That's where mine came undone. Reconnect and you should be toasty.

Dan Perkins website for discount parts is Subarupartsforyou.com. Ask for John. They MATCH the other web prices/shop prices.

Hey Trooper, You used the 2 quarts as a rinse while the plug was out, right?, but how much did you need to add to refill the tranny. Owners manual says 2 quarts to refill. Doesn't seem like you get too much of the total 6 quarts system capacity out of the drain pan technique.

It appears that the oil dripping onto my exhaust is coming from the valve cover bolt boots. I had a local replace the valve cover gaskets since he described the leak from that area but I only learned later that the rubber gaskets/boots that the bolts go through need to be changed as well (Subaru sells them in a kit but I'm sure he didn't use SOA).. If I feel around the bolts, there is always oil seeping through. Just a thought but perhaps yours is a similar situation. It sits up high and doesn't even need to be blown back on the exhaust... just drips on down and stinks.

Had similar problem on my 90 Loyale. Soaked the floor. There are two little drain holes, one on passenger and one on driver side. They can get plugged with leaves and crud. I think I used a coat hanger (it might have been a thinner wire) and bored them clean. They are inside the engine compartment, right on top in the corners just next to the hood hinges. Simple fix. Then I had to "Fabreze" the hell out of the mats to get rid of the wet diaper smell.

The tranny fluid looks burnt. The manual implies that draining will only require replacing about 2 quarts but the capacity of the system is 6 quarts. Is there a technique to evacuate all the fluid for replacing with new fluid? Any recommended brand of Dexron II or is oil just oil?

Check out Discount Parts aka Libery suabru in NJ 1-888-782-9493 and tell them what you want and they will give you an estimate and part #. Dan Perkins Subaru in CT. ask for John 800-6545354 and tell him what you are looking for and after he gives you the regular price tell him you've been shopping on line with 1stSubaruparts.com etc. You may have to pay shipping but usually not tax so sometimes it's a wash.

Liberty Subaru's (Discount Parts) prices are comparable to 1stSubaruparts.com and locally Dan Perkins subaru in Milford, CT will match the prices. I think Moosens has beat them into submission. They basically will give the same price they sell to shops if you tell them about the prices you've got on line. Perhaps you should mention this to your local dealers and put them on the spot. They'd probably still like to make a few bucks instead of an enemy. They know we know!!!

Boy it hurts to be accused of infanticide! Actually the car kissed a highway divider in a snowstorm (2WD) and the car WAS still running a year later when I donated it to one of those "Donate your car so we can find a home for a blind cat" charities. It was long before I discovered the grease wheeling, mud schlogging, head banging world of the USMB site. Moosens lives close by and already has dibs when the time comes to take my 90 Loyale into the "afterlife". I have begun to lock the car knowing that he covets certain items! You always hope that the organ donor card thing has a clause that says "AFTER my death, then and only then, take what you want"!! So now the real question. Riddle me this Batman... So why did SOA change from a non-maintenance item (timing gear) that would seemingly last forever and never enter the realm of the dreaded interference engine mishaps with broken/jumped timing belts destroying engines etc. in favor of the belted system?

I had an 84 GL and was told it didn't have a belt. Junked the car at 145K miles without ever changing much besides the oil... and that infrequently.