brus brother

In addition to Shawn's warning, be certain that you only use genuine Subaru tweezers and bandana when working on the CD player.

http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_cdfaq4.html#CDFAQ_009 I searched the site a little more. Looks like eithjer a stretched band in the transport or chipped or dirty gears. Let me know what it looks like once you've performed exploratory suirgery.

00 Legacy GT. 60K miles. Transmission replaced under warranty at 30K as it lagged going from reverse to drive. As far as the HG no problems yet... as the fellow who fell from a skyscraper yelled at each floor going by... so far so good. I did get the stop leak added last time at the dealer to get the extended 8 yr/100K warranty on the external HG leak.

Ditto on getting them to replace your gaskets again/ resurface heads and THEN put the oatmeal in for good measure! Show no mercy, they admit they have a problem now. Did you have to pay the first time around as I think they are reimbursing those who paid themselves before they admitted the problem. Good luck.

http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_cdfaq.html Work your way through this site. I don't know if your's is belt driven or gear driven. The rubber bands stretch and lose function and earlier cassettes and cds were notorious for just such problems. Hope this helps. PS this showed up as a simple Google "CD Repair" search.

Hey Miles Are ball joints a DIY job or are there special tools required? Does the alignment need to be redone after changing? Thanks

When rotating my bald tires last week I noticed that the right front tire has a little play in it if you grab the wheel and try rocking it by hand. I've always considered the steering mechanism (front end) to be in the realm of hobbits and uber gods. What should I be looking for? (A newer car with less than 150,000 miles?) The CV joint was replaced about 7,000 miles ago. Any suggestions or insults?

My local dealer has a 5x7 card on the counter with a checklist for 30, 60, 90, 120 etc. miles and what is recommended for service. Included in the list are such essentials as check hoses (hose client) check belts (use same belt on client) and most importantly, check size of customers check book.

OK I wish I could blame some inferior mechanic but 'twas me who didn't tighten the lug nuts after recently taking the safety precaution of rotating my bald tires to the rear. So the death trap no longer roams the road just DAD (dumb as dirt). Thanks Noah for reminding me that common things occur most commonly.

OK My 90 Loyale AT just started making this flop flop flop sound from the left front wheel. Sounds like I have a flat but tire pressure is good. I feel it a little in the steering. Doesn't change when I step on the brake or when I engage the 4WD. Any thoughts or prayers appreciated. Be forewarned, I am on the road with this death trap so stay back a few feet if you see me.

Commuter is probably on the right track. Reread his posts and tighten the nut down! If as you said, you were able to loosen the nut by hand, it was too losse and allowing the arm to slip. The system is designed to prevent a stuck wiper from burning out the wiper motor. I had the same situation this past winter after pushing heavy snow. Tigthened the nut (as per Commuter's suggestion) and I've been happy since.

Addition to valve cover gaskets were the rubber boots (washers) around the bolts that hold the valve covers on. The first aftermarket set leaked so go SOA. They do come in the kit so you'll be getting them if you do the cover gaskets (individually, they cost as much as the whole kit, go figure). Anyway, as previous writer said, you are leaking a LOT of oil for it to be valve cover gaskets.

Demonic possession.

GT Radial is the name of the manufacturer. Apparently widely distributed in Aus and NZ, it has found its way to CT good ole USA. I don't know if their extremely competitive rates reflect a desire to gain a foothold in the market or just peddling snake oil. I did use Tire Rack in the past for the Continental ContiTouringContact and was somewhat satisfied but in spite of keeping inflation at the Sub spec of 32lbs, the outer AND inner tread wore at 20,000 miles as if I had been running it underinflated!? So I figure why spend the extra for Continental which come to about $105 installed as compared to the GT Radials at $74 installed. Returning tires for credit to TireRack is a exercise in futility. Any comments from the cheap seats?

Anybody have experience with GT Radial manufactured tires? Good Bad or Ugly? Looking at 205/55/16 for my 2000 Legacy. 4 tires installed for $308US.

Same symptoms. My 2000 Legacy GT auto transmission was replaced under warranty at about 37,000 mi and the ease with which the tech diagnosed the problem with a nod to the service manager gave me the impression that this was a well known problem. You might approach SOA dierctly or ask the dealer to do it for you to see if they'll cut you some slack or share the expense.

Hey Truk I just went through the exact same thing with RR on my 2000 GT Legacy. It was the wear indicator which happened to score the rotor as well as "indicate" wear. Seems like they could come up with a more subtle way of letting you know the pads need replacement other than scoring the rotor! BTW, they said the front rotors needed to be resurfaced after 10,000 miles even though the pads were fine. Is this normal or is it related to an issue I read hear about undersized rotors on this model. Apologies for hijacking your post. I paid the dealer $240 total for rear brakes/resurface rotor but independent quoted nearly the same price. I'll be checking back for DIY tips for the next go around.

On my 90 Loyale there were these rubber boots or gaskets that fit around the bolts holding the valve cover in place. Leaked like hell and dripped and found their way back to the lowest point (gravity is so predictable). First aftermarket set leaked and so I switched to SOA and voila the leak was gone. If'n you got that type of bolt through design, check for leaks around the bolts.

2000 Legacy GT 60,000 mi. scraping sound from right rear tire area when moving. Front brakes done at 37,000 nothing on rear yet. Any idea of the usual suspects??

Around here, we have auto paint supply shops that can scan the color of the car now and mix up the paint in large spray cans. The scanner will "see" the actual color of your car as it exists today considering it likely that the original color has oxidized over time.

We've been having a cold spell here in the northeast. On the real cold mornings the brakes are real stiff until warmed up. It caught me off guard the first time and I had to basically stand on the brakes to stop the car. All is well after a few stomps and after the car has warmed up. Is this common for you guys in the forever cold region or is this just a case of moisture in some old brake fluid giving me a hard time?

Nice artwork melding the concepts. Unfortunately, for my taste the front of the car makes it look like an anteater. If you took the two hood lines and moved them further laterally towards the fenders, you'd get less "hips" and more "shoulder" to the look, somewhat like the Volvo hood lines. This might require that you take that Alfa grillwork and stretch it laterally as well (not a bad thing though). The back seems to trail off without impact. How about a little more "haunch". The VW Toureg seems a fair balance so if SOA could take a cue and give it the SOA style stamp, I'd buy. Micheangelo stated that simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

OK I thought they called it a solenoid but that modulator is the item I was referring to. The dealer part was about $38US. Piece of cake to install. The muffler bearings are on back order......

With about 35K miles on the odometer, the auto tranny on my 00 Legacy GT was slow to shift from reverse into forward. SOA installed a reman. transmission. Fortunately, satisfactory service after unsatisfactory FACTORY. Mechanic immediately knew what he was dealing with as a known problem so be on the lookout if you are still under warranty.

19"... she's a keeper! Best wishes.