brus brother

Got so excited I forgot to post the site so here it is... http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtCamBeltReplaceW01.pdf

With the help from the compatriots at the New Gen website I was led to the following website. Unfortunately, as detailed as it is with photos and all, it is for the 2.2 and seemingly elsewhere for the 2.5. It's a very thorough how to and worth the view if you have the time.

Thanks LB from the land below you. That is the site I was thinking about but it appears my 90 Loyale has a 1.8l engine. I will search the endwrench site for anything specific to my engine. Occasionally, local dealers run a $275 US timing belt special and I am tempted although the incidental cam/oil seals etc. could make the price worth the greasy nails. I will try and not test your memory past the 48 hr. warranty. Yep, this site is a wealth of helpful enthusiasts. Many thanks again.

Does anyone recall the excellent website with actual photos posted by one of the visitors to the New Gen or Older Sub website?? I'm chocking on oil burning oil smells and may have to dive in!

Thanks ECB. That site is a dandy yet there was another one with actual photos that another contributor to the New Gen or Older Sub sites had posted. Anyone else have a clue?

Does anyone have experience with any of these additives to stop leaks where it involves the seal between engine and auto trans? I seem to be going through diff oil on a fairly regular basis. The bottom of my car looks and smells like the oil fields of Iraq (not on fire though) and I'm sure I am also seeping from the valve cover bolt seals and probably the oil pump etc.. Is there a predictable additive fix for these varieities of leaks? It's a 90 Loyale AT with east coast rust galore at 144K miles. I hate to throw too much in the way of mechanical fixes at it... how about the new 2004 model hmmmmmm...

Where is that excellent website detailing with pictures the changing of timing belts? The link was posted here before... or was it on the New Generation site?

Not sure where the AC was installed. I guess it might not have been factory but I'm not sure since I got the car from the third owner. So far, the car is running pretty well with three new NKGs and wires. What's so great about running on four cylinders anyway? Thanks for the sympathy.

Can't even seem to get the spark plug socket into the space no less any wobbly or extension

The AC is closer to the battery. What then??

Apparently there are also seals for the bolts that hold the valve cover on and it appears mine are leaking there (noticed after I changed the valve cover gaskets).

I've never changed the spark plugs on this 90 Loyale with AC. Do I need to disassemble the entire front part of the car to access the front plug that appears buried under the AC compressor? Can the compressor be rotated out of the way or what??

I've never changed the spark plugs on Loyale 90 with AC before. It appears that the front plug is buried under the AC compressor. What do I need to move, remove, destroy in order to get at that plug. Does the AC compressor simply rotate up out of the way?

The question remains, is it necessary to use gray Permatex on the plugs as one suggested.

Hey Kevinsubaru, I like the simplicity of your method. Did you use the Permatex sealant on the plugs?

The manual calls for 75/90 gear oil for 90 Loyale. There is only synthetic available at my local stores in that weight. I have some 80/90 gear oil and have contemplated using it. Is there that much difference? I like the through the wheel well, over the shoulder, around the tree approach to the rear diff but I think the $5 pump or even the squeeze bottle the oil comes in with a feeder hose may just do the trick. I will try and post again after I wash the oil out of my eyes.

Properly educated with your helpful tips in hand, I will now go watch TV.

Is there any homespun way of opening the drain and fill plug on rear diff on a 90 Loyale or do I have to get a special tool? It is an internal square on the plug.

My 2000GT automatic is nearly due for the 60K mile service. There is a long list of items on the dealer's generic check list for all Subarus (many items are marked "where applicable"). At $500U.S. it seems a bit steep for things many of which are just indicated as "inspect", "check" etc.. One unknown to me is "add BG MOA and 44K". Anyone have an idea what this means? Is this a simple math problem of "addition" or are there actually products to be inserted somewhere into the car?? What are the prices in your area for these services and am I better off at a good local mechanic?

D.....rats! I just examined the car and see what you mean. I suppose a sawzall might remedy the situation though. Thanks for the insight across continents.

I have a 2000 Legacy GT and would like to know if there is any way to allow the rear windows to be lowered all the way. There seems to be a limit set that prevents the window from being lowered past half way. I make it a habit of not letting suicidal passengers ride in the rear seat and do not fear for potential jumpers. I live in Connecticut but noticed recently in a rental car in sunny Florida that this was not the case on that car.

The guys who did my car used a variety of metal prods and "pushed" or better put "romanced" the dents out. They were either the Dent Doctor or Dent Wizard. The result as I stated briefly in the earlier post was great. He went over the entire car and removed nearly all the mishaps.

It worked great for me with some fairly substantial dents. In my case it was a 2000GT with the newer glossy paints so go for it!!