brus brother

Check out Discount Parts aka Libery suabru in NJ 1-888-782-9493 and tell them what you want and they will give you an estimate and part #. Dan Perkins Subaru in CT. ask for John 800-6545354 and tell him what you are looking for and after he gives you the regular price tell him you've been shopping on line with 1stSubaruparts.com etc. You may have to pay shipping but usually not tax so sometimes it's a wash.

Liberty Subaru's (Discount Parts) prices are comparable to 1stSubaruparts.com and locally Dan Perkins subaru in Milford, CT will match the prices. I think Moosens has beat them into submission. They basically will give the same price they sell to shops if you tell them about the prices you've got on line. Perhaps you should mention this to your local dealers and put them on the spot. They'd probably still like to make a few bucks instead of an enemy. They know we know!!!

Boy it hurts to be accused of infanticide! Actually the car kissed a highway divider in a snowstorm (2WD) and the car WAS still running a year later when I donated it to one of those "Donate your car so we can find a home for a blind cat" charities. It was long before I discovered the grease wheeling, mud schlogging, head banging world of the USMB site. Moosens lives close by and already has dibs when the time comes to take my 90 Loyale into the "afterlife". I have begun to lock the car knowing that he covets certain items! You always hope that the organ donor card thing has a clause that says "AFTER my death, then and only then, take what you want"!! So now the real question. Riddle me this Batman... So why did SOA change from a non-maintenance item (timing gear) that would seemingly last forever and never enter the realm of the dreaded interference engine mishaps with broken/jumped timing belts destroying engines etc. in favor of the belted system?

I had an 84 GL and was told it didn't have a belt. Junked the car at 145K miles without ever changing much besides the oil... and that infrequently.

http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtCamBeltReplaceW01.pdf The above site is for the 2.2 SOC. I'm not sure what you have but they reference another article about the 2.5. Hope this helps your search pilgrim.

My 2000Legacy GT didn't have front license installed initially but Connecticut laws changed and I had to update my older series of plates that I had transferred from an older car (Subaru of course). Anyway, there were small indentations in the bumper, barely noticeable, and I used the self-tapping(?) screws the delaer supplied when I bought the car and installed the plate and there she sits. I must say it looked better without the plate...

God must love Skeet!

How far are you beyond the 60K mile drivetrain warranty?

Forgot to mention it is automatic transmission.

Anyone know if the 90 Loyale tranny filter is a remove and clean or replace filter. Is there a preferred technique for eliminating all the old fluid befroe refilling? Is any gasket sealer required on the pan?

I noticed the same thing on my 2000GT legacy at about 36K miles. The service rep. drove the car around the block, came back and nodded to the service manager. They ordered a rebuilt tranny and gave me a loaner on the day they did the install... no charge. The familiarity with which the dealer's representatives approached this problem certainly leads me to believe that this is a known problem if not publicly acknowledged. Anyway... the car has run fine since the rebuild was installed. G'Luck

Actually, a local mechanic inspected them when doing a cv joint for me and then questioned himself why they made that sound when test driving. The rotor didn't appear damaged and as I said, the noise goes away once the brakes "warm up". Still open to ideas.

90 Loyale. I know I read about this recently on this or the New Gen site but I can't remember the answer anyway so here goes. When I apply the brakes when they are cold, the front brakes make a grinding/crunching noise (like when you have no cartilage left in your knee) but this goes away after a few minutes (the knee doesn't get better though). The brakes are worn but have some meat on them. Any ideas other than replace the worn pads with Subaru pads and cross my fingers??

Seems like my tranny fluid and front diff fluids are mixing it up. Does anyone know on a 90 Loyale AT whether the tranny can be removed to repair the seal or do you have to come in the front way?

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797CH04_36.HTML This is for Vacuum lines. http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797.HTML This is the Home Page for this very valuable site.

Moosens checked out my 90 Loyale and with his encouragement planned to do the front engine leaks. On closer inspection, it appears that there are leaks in the area of the front diff.. The only problem I see is that the oil drips onto the exhaust and smells a lot. Adding fluids occasionally isn't that much of a bother. So perhaps the real solution is to create a system of gutters and downspouts that catch and redirect the oil drippings away from the hot exhaust. With some ingenuity, the oil could be collected and redirected into the fill tube.

Is there any problem mixing the orange antifreeze with the old green type or should I drain the old and start fresh? Is there a preferred of these two types for the Subaru 90 Loyale?

The following site will give you the sequence for removing as well as the sequence for installing and torques for various heads. I will also post the main page url for this site as it is most informative. Head info: http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797CH03_16.HTML Main page: http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797.HTML Let me know if you can't get to these sites and I will long hand the information to you. G'Luck

... hit it with something hard... oh yeah, you already did that. Glad to hear you passed the crash test.

My 90 Loyale sprang a fuel leak. The "fuel damper" rusted out. It is located right beyond the fuel pump. No dealers stocked it around here and none could say that it regulated anything other than noise. I disconnected the bugger from the fuel pump and substituted a 3/8 fuel line hose with clamps. I'm no longer leaking but does anyone know if there is any purpose that this $45 item served. The car seems to run well so far but remember the story of the fellow who fell from a skyscraper... at every floor they heard him yell out... so far so good!

OK, before I undertake the variety of oil leak fixes suggested on this site, I'd like to start out with as clear a picture of where the leaks are actually coming from and then start the project with as clean a work area as possible. What's the easiest way, other than have someone else do it, to clean and any precautions? I have a gravel driveway, close to my well and adjacent to a wetland so I'd prefer not eventually drinking the runoff. Are there any "safe" substances and techniques?

Got so excited I forgot to post the site so here it is... http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtCamBeltReplaceW01.pdf

With the help from the compatriots at the New Gen website I was led to the following website. Unfortunately, as detailed as it is with photos and all, it is for the 2.2 and seemingly elsewhere for the 2.5. It's a very thorough how to and worth the view if you have the time.

Thanks LB from the land below you. That is the site I was thinking about but it appears my 90 Loyale has a 1.8l engine. I will search the endwrench site for anything specific to my engine. Occasionally, local dealers run a $275 US timing belt special and I am tempted although the incidental cam/oil seals etc. could make the price worth the greasy nails. I will try and not test your memory past the 48 hr. warranty. Yep, this site is a wealth of helpful enthusiasts. Many thanks again.

Does anyone recall the excellent website with actual photos posted by one of the visitors to the New Gen or Older Sub website?? I'm chocking on oil burning oil smells and may have to dive in!