brus brother

This might not be the right forum for this issue but since the issue of headlight power and glare is on the table I'd thought I'd add the following: after many years of puzzling how to eliminate glare from headlights, I Googled polarized headlights and was surprised to find that in the 1920s Edwin Land (think Polaroid Land camera) had proposed the solution by polarizing headlights and windshields or glasses that would solve the problem. http://www.polarization.com/land/land.html Finally dismissed in the 1940s, 2 lane highways and low/high beams were deemed adequate solutions, and the rest is history. Likely I am not alone when it comes to that uneasy moment of looking to the side of the road to avoid the glare. The expression "it goes without saying" only holds if no one says anything. There oughta be a law... OK, Rant over... ban me to OFF TOPIC.

OK you shamed me into inspecting my grounds. I found the connection to the engine and firewall alright but the split wire off the neg terminal where it grounds to the fender was pretty crusty. Wire brushed and reconnected. Should I coat the exterior of these connections with dielecric grease? I have been having some dimming of lights when braking and will report back if there is any change.

Did you remove/open the air filter box or any other of the related components to access the plugs? You may have just not connected them properly. This happened to me and made the car sound "throatier". Also, if there has been a drastic change in performance after doing the work, you may have disconnected a vacuum line.

Looks like you are still under warranty (04 with 24,000 miles) . I would get thee soon to a dealer and pitch a bit@h.

The lighting for the radio and HVAC went out for about 3 days. The radio and HVAC worked fine, just the lights were out. All other dash lights worked as expected. After a few days, the lights became operative again. I documented this with the dealer but they were unable to reproduce. Anyone else have a similar problem or idea of what posssessed my car?

Use your insurance. Explain what happened.

Standard setup. I don't know if it was HID or not.

First one went last year and was replaced and my second one went out last week. There is a bulletin or recall since the first one so now they replaced both bulbs. Rear driving bulb died last month but I suppose that's just coincidence... for now.

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com Right in your own back yard in Milford CT. Genuine Subaru parts at discount.

The Nipper saga included replacing the engine before making it back across the Donner pass.

If you can do the repair as described above, I would suggest you try it and if it works, either return the item or put it on the shelf until you really need it. The less you take apart, the less parts you can lose, break, reinstall incorrectly... As I recall, the Subie tech explained the repair as pinching the outer and inner aspects of the triangular piece together. Aside from closing the door using the glass (you don't), the distortion can happen when the passenger (plus size) is trying to exit the car in a tight parking spot and pushes against the glass.

...2 engines...

Did you take the module out to clean it, check wiring harness, caress, cajole, plead, wiggle, tap it gently with the heel of your shoe? You can always get a replacement but... is there a board member that could help with checking the harness i.e. jump it and make sure that it's not other than a bad switch module?? Cougar? Chief Tim? Nipper? Car 54 where are you?

Distant memory of my 90 Loyale was that the buttons were vacuum related. On the 90 Loyale I had somehow disconnected a small diameter (same as windshield washer hose size) vacuum hose in the engine compartment on the passenger side just in front of the windshield. I can't remember if this stopped the buttons from working as you described or if the operation of the unit become non-functional until I reconnected the hose.

Get a trailer hitch and tow (flatbed of course) another sube behind you and you'll never want for spare parts;)

So, is the brass cannister thing part of the fuel pump? I thought I read that your problem persisted even with a new pump in place??

That's because you are from Hawaii. The original poster is from New Joisey... bahdahbing!

Other than the check engine light, were there any other sympotms with the TPS?

Ole Nippy boy just reached his 5000th post:clap:. I am trying like hell to catch him by posting such as this and so as to not be banned to the Off Topic page, let me just say... torque bind, head gasket, KN filter and to be politically correct, I am Brus Brother and I approve this message.

Maybe Nipster is just miffed because nobody noticed this was his 5000th post:clap:... no ataboys, no cards, fanfare, squat... after all I've done for you... so... ATABOY, GOOD JOB, BEEN SWELL, COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOU, HERE'S TO 5000 MORE! Now, back to work! PS when I first read TB expert, I thought you were talking about tuberculosis. Thank God torque bind isn't contagious.

Fortunately I've never had the torque bind problem but from following posts, it would seem to make sense to try drain and refill with regular ATF a few times before you bring in the big guns.

Yikes... the grill on that Ford is about as innovative as the robot from The Day The Earth Stood Still released in 1951 (See 1 Lucky Texan's avatar - Post #26 this thread)

AND they both appear to have 4 wheels!

Er... yes she did (same color) and it is in my driveway. I love the styling and balance of the 05+ Outback design. Not much of a racer boy anymore so I didn't go for the hood scooped turbo (premium gas too:-\ with the turbo). It reminds me of the Lexus SUV but pleasantly toned (and priced) down.

I guess it's best to lather up your best Texan drawl for this, then hurry home and brush your teeth after having talked such sh*#.