brus brother

Was the same condition present before you changed the struts??

If you still want to use the tape deck, open it up and check inasmuch as most of them have a single rubber band belt that make them run. It will be broken and dried out. Check around for a replacement, replace and voila, outdated technology brought back to life... long live the 8 track!

OK, back to my first suggestion. Can you separate the power from the CD and the radio? It seems that would eliminate a variable. I don't have this type setup (underseat) but apparently under normal conditions, you turn on the radio and it also powers up the cd player. I don't know where the power goes first though. Unlikely they both died at the same time. It appears that the radio/cd is losing power completely when you turn the car off, akin to disconnecting the battery. Has anything been done recently to the electrical system of the car? Just musing but perhaps a transistor head on the board can say if there is a component of the audio system that retains a small current to maintain the presets and the instant on function of the radio/cd.

Is there a way of separating power from the cd and the radio? Can you power the radio independent of the cd unit?

From 10-27-05 news report. "Later Thursday, Israel fired missiles at the Jebaliya refugee camp near Gaza City as people were returning home from evening prayers. Witnesses said the target was a white Subaru car."

Well, even if this isn't a DIY project, Cougar has saved the mechanic a lot of work with his write-up. How do you test these relays and combination switch?

What? You haven't yet accidentally hit the parking light switch on top of the steering column and wondered why your lights stay on and kill your battery? Welcome aboard.

Happened to be at a Subie dealership the other day and chatted a fellow who was getting a loaner as his 05 OB had blown a PS pump. Sh** happens to at least one other and only time will tell how many others. P.S. my wife drives a 05 OB as well and I beginning to feel left out!

As per 1 Lucky Texan, "But even so amid the tornadoed Atlantic of my being, do I myself still forever centrally disport in mute calm; and while ponderous planets of unwaning woe revolve round me, deep down and deep inland there I still bathe me in eternal mildness of joy." Apparently consternation turns to lucidation!

I would have to agree that it is time for a meeting with the regional representative. These guys are ususally some savvy mechanics and not just assemblers (notice the first three letters of the previous word). I doubt that the techs don't believe you... hence the first few attempts at repair. Likely that they aren't capable of figuring it out and hence are now blowing you off. Did you get a statement from the indy shop? Threaten Lemon Law if necessary. I forget the requirements but repeated visits for unsolved issues are covered if within a certain period of time. I know you want to keep the car but they don't and they certainly don't want your car back. Even if they cave and finally fix the car, ask for something in addition... be firm... perhaps some tree shaped air fresheners??

Well, I'm not as inclined to just say yes to their "kind" offers. I have a 2000 Legacy GT with 75,000 miles without any slap. If you absolutely love the car and feel the deal was a good price then I would negotiate with the new and improved pistons x 4. This will give you the peace of mind that the future will not bite you on the other cheek. They know the car was prepared for you so as to not slap when you tested it and likely hoped you were deaf or dumb or both. They don't want the car back so, ask for a wee bit more good will at this point. What can they say... no? Not likely, call their bluff. PS Short block is about $2000 US plus install

I just went through this on my 2000 Legacy GT wagon. I too thought it was the seatbelt buckle but the noise was present even when the belt was buckled in. I could at times bang on the door panel with the door open and get a similar sound. Finally, after no less than three attempts at finding the noise by the dealer, the tech took the door panel off and tapping on the interior skin isolated the noise to the window motor rattling against the interior "skin" of the door. He placed a bit of foam behind the motor as a trial fix and noise is no more! I'll ask him to use something with a little adhesive to insure that the fix is permanent. Good luck.

My 2000 legacy gt does it... same as above, ignition on (engine running or not) press on the gas pedal sounds like small electric motor buzzing... release gas pedal sounds like nothing. Always assumed fuel pump but I'm open to suggestions. Checked for horse fly... none found.

Fuel pump.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm This is one of the more definitive sites on all the Subaru years and models remotes and procedures. Hope it helps.

2000 Legacy GT Auto (no pet barrier) The numbers I get fairly consistently are in the 22 mpg range. The ECU has had numerous battery disconnects to reset and never changed anything other than my radio preset stations. BTW, the computer was flashed for the latest update and no change in mpg either. Hope you enjoy your new car and if 8K is what you thought was a good deal then it was a good deal for you!

"Sounds corny"? Sounds fishy! Now if we only had some clams we'd have a real beach party. QUOTE=nassor]I am wondering if anybody has tried the e-ram product on a 2.5i engine. It alledgedly will increase HP by %10-%15 by using a high current electric fan that kicks in during WOT and pressurizes the intake a little. Sounds corny, I know, but it just might work. The poor-man's supercharger I Guess. http://www.electricsupercharger.com/I've considered it for my '98 LOB (if I ever get it fixed) -Nassor

The body styles change every 5 or so years. The 05 was the beginning of the new cycle and would then hold that newer car look for more years than the previous generation styling. I love the styling of our 05 OB Ltd. Compare the rear tail lights on this newer incarnation as two distinct lamps as compared to the band of red reflector that went across the entire back. The 05 is higher and has more "hip and shoulder" to the look. I feel the 05s are styled like a better scaled Lexus (which I find too large and clunky). You'll be getting a longer warranty with the new car if this matters to you. The older car is back for sale either because it had issues, an accident or was driven as a leaser by someone who may not be as concerned as you about care and longevity. I stayed away from the 05 turbos because of the required premium gas and I don't care for the hood scoop which though at leaast functional on these models gives the car a more "boy racer" look. Of course... IMHO.

Until I read the report of no less than 20 circus clowns (in full costume) climbing out of an Outback (with or without headgasket problems), I will consider these other attempts as mere underachievement.

Have to agree with Seahag. It's damn ner impossible to snake a siphon hose past all the bends and air traps. But if your intention is to create a project or you intend to use the door as some form of offensive weapon then you are on the right track.

Your bolts may not be rusted sollid but I remember doing these up at Moosen's with Connie on her Loyale over on the Old Gen site. Ended up unable to remove the bolts so zip zip zip with a sawzall and replace the bolts with a new set she had on hand. She was prepared and it payed off, extra few bucks for insurance on a Sunday afternoon, driveway repair.

Agreed. You were apparently made whole but others less tenacious may not be as lucky especially if their problem starts at lets say 36,001 miles on at about 3 years and one day.

Great thread! I breathed a sigh of relief when I got to the successful solution.You think Emily has any job openings for Todd at CCR in the "Phew" Department?

Sounds like throw out bearing. When in 4th or 5th gear and you floor it, does the clutch slip at all? That was how mine behaved before the clutch finally gave up the ghost.

Nope. The warranty is with SOA not the individual dealer. Don't waste your time checking anything other than the reality check that you have a warranty. Get what you paid for and if they can't fix it on the spot, get a loaner car and drive it until they remedy the problem or in the worse case scenario, replace the car under the "lemon laws". A friend actually just got his 05 replaced under this law after a month of failed attempts to fix his Subie. There will be certain cars out of a production line that end up being the runt of the litter but there is nom reason that you should be stuck with it. Good luck and report back.