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mstr_pete

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Everything posted by mstr_pete

  1. mstr_pete
    Hope this works...the upload, I mean. Car starts just fine.
  2. mstr_pete
    Yeah, so I just bypassed the R/B wire from the ignition to the starter. I seem to have bypassed the clutch safety switch, too.
  3. mstr_pete
    I got a break in the weather today, so I'm going for it. Thanks for the "leads"
  4. mstr_pete
    Sounds like a fun afternoon
  5. mstr_pete
    Grrr...very frustrated. The wagon was running just fine. I was headed for the coast to do some camping and beach clean-up. I stopped for a cup of coffee, and *click*- nothing else. Jump-start did nothing. I cajoled a good citizen into helping me push-start it (LOVE me some stick-shift!), and i was on my way. I got back home on less gas than I expected to use, and lo-and-behold the starter has a lifetime warranty. Out with the old one, in with the new one, and...*click*. Sonofa----- Now what? I should have time to go at it again on Saturday, so what's the game plan? Again, it was running fine, and it starts right up if I roll it and pop a gear.
  6. mstr_pete
    It looks like the driver's side CV shaft has broken up at the output shaft. With the front wheels off the ground, engine running, and the transmission in neutral: the output shaft turns, there are grinding sounds, and the wheel doesn't turn. Same scenario, transmission in gear: output shaft turns faster, noises are louder. I expect that the mechanic who installed them will take care of this for me. CV axles ought to last more than 3,000 miles. I have video and photos but I'm not sure how to post them.
  7. mstr_pete
    I'll know more in the morning after I lift the front end.
  8. mstr_pete
    would it go all of a sudden like that though?
  9. mstr_pete
    Hmmm...interesting. I had a shop do the axles, but I will check the free turn.
  10. mstr_pete
    Hi folks, It's been a while since I posted here, 'cause the wagon has been running fine, but a BAD THING happened today. I was toodling home through my neighborhood when, upon starting up from a stop at an intersection, I heard a CLUNK and lost motive power. the engine was running and revving, and the car was...just...rolling. I hit the 4WD button on the shifter (this is a 5-speed) and the rear drive engaged. I got back underway, nice and easy, for the mile or so home. Once home, I took a quick look underneath the front end to confirm that the new CV axles and joints were still in place, which they were. So, I suspect a problem with or in the transaxle. QUESTIONS: Does that sound about right? Am I overlooking anything? What's the diagnostic procedure, or did I just experience it? Is this a repair, or a replacement? How big of a PITA is the job? Considering this car has 245k miles on it and needs new front engine seals at the next timing belt change (i.e. soon), is it worth pursuing? TIA
  11. mstr_pete
    I've done a few over the years but this is the one I remember best: '85 Dodge 250 van, 318 engine, coming back with the family from California, radiator blew out. Long story, replaced it in a hotel parking lot, we're back on the road, but it's still running hot. We're in Blythe, it's a million degrees, I pull off the freeway and pop the hood. The upper hose from the heater control box is HOT HOT HOT and I figure I've got an air pocket. Trouble is, all the vacuum tubes from the heater control box are falling off, who knows where they go, I've got the wife and three toddlers, so I've got to figure this out. Engine off, fan on high defrost, I pull the hose and BAM a shot of hot air blows past my face. Found the air pocket, all right. But I've got to bypass the bad control box. What do I have? A mini-mag lite. I knock the guts out with a screwdriver and it's a perfect fit. Two hose clamps and a gallon of antifreeze later, the van is in permanent defrost mode and we make it to New Mexico. I ran it like that for a year, then sold it to a couple whose van blew up and needed to keep going to (old) Mexico. Good times.
  12. mstr_pete
    I've found that 1800-2200 rpm is the ideal zone for gear changes. Unless I use the clutch, that is ;-) Then I can go a lot higher.
  13. mstr_pete
    I will do that
  14. mstr_pete
    My '92 Loyale 4WD 5-speed has essentially no parking brake function, it is that far out of adjustment. It holds okay on the level, but any incline will defeat it. The trouble I'm having is that the setup on the vehicle looks nothing like the diagram in the Chilton book, so I really don't know where to go with this. I haven't found anything on this topic in this forum either. I know that the parking brake works on the front wheels, but what I see is heavily shielded cable running from somewhere amidships to the back of the caliper, with nary an adjustable point in sight. What am I missing?
  15. mstr_pete
    No suggestions on a Seattle wrench, but I'm glad I finally figured out what LSD is in this context
  16. mstr_pete
    Here's my data from the last fill-up: 11.2 US gal of 87 AKI @$3.85 = $43.12 $43.12 / 278 miles= $0.16/mile (rounded up) You all are on your own for unit conversions But I agree with Silas about "ducats for distance" as a standard.
  17. mstr_pete
    I'll need more time than I had to get into the motor, but I did find the plug terminals were showing some corrosion. I cleaned them up while I pulled the wiper arms off to spray-paint them flat black for smoother operation Things are better, though I didn't time the wipers before-and-after. ETA: Battery and alternator are fine, so I'm thinking motor or switch.
  18. mstr_pete
    Good ideas, thanks. the weirdest part to me is how the interval setting will stall. I'll have to do some poking around.
  19. mstr_pete
    Sorry, 92 Loyale wagon.
  20. mstr_pete
    Is this a normal Subie thing, or should I start looking for problems? The wipers are very slow compared to other cars I've driven, like half the speed I'd expect. Also, the interval setting gets stuck sometimes. I have to pull the stalk towards me to get them going again. Dirty switch? Bad motor? Tired wiper elves?
  21. mstr_pete
    Turbone, I wasn't implying that they did, just being shocked is all.
  22. mstr_pete
    Did I just do that math right? $6.40 for a gallon of fuel? I'm paying $3.79 for 87 octane.
  23. mstr_pete
    I ended up passing on the Outback deck, and went with the Alpine CD unit I already had. Not a bad job, all in all. I did have to transplant the radio antenna from the stock unit to the Alpine; I tapped into the key-on power and ground just behind the factory harness, and used the orange hot lead for clock/memory power; and I used the front speaker wire from the doors to under the dash. I spliced new wire from the deck to the clips. bypassing the common ground. (I also read everything I could find on this board before I started!) It doesn't stick out too much, actually it's right at my fingertips when I'm driving, so that's an improvement And I can see it at night, which is a HUGE upgrade over stock! I'll put up photos as soon as I figure out how...
  24. mstr_pete
    Well, I've already got an Alpine CD deck that I could make work with some modification. Sounds like the Outback deck is the same story.
  25. mstr_pete
    I'm bumping this in appreciation for the chuckles and good advice here. I was wondering, being a Sube noob, whether 3000-plus rpm at 65 mph was normal or not. Turns out I've been underplaying things
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