TKFlight

Did you use a OEM subaru thermostat? The white sludge usually doesn't show up with these years because they are external failures. But yes if they are seeping its time to get them done, they've made Multi-Layer Steel head gaskets for these years so I recommend purchasing those for the replacement. Also always use OEM subaru parts for the cooling system, thermostat, water pump, etc.

Pennsylvania, there's spray paint on stuff that isn't the crossmember and trailing arms. Pretty sure the actual uni-body is rotted out, everything in the rear is rusted you can name anything in the rear and its rusted all up.

Yea I could do that, I'll figure it out when I'm looking for a new car. I hate to see it go because it drives so good.

Talked to a second mechanic that I know and trust, we both went underneath it in the garage up on the lift. Its worse than expected, looks like its more than just the sub frame. Other parts of the suspension are rusting away and the previous owner decided to use spray paint or like a flex seal of some sort to cover them up. Its a long story on the car and how I got it, so I really had no idea this was going on until last week. Just gonna cut my loses and buy something when I get out of basic training and AIT training for the military. He checked it over, said the suspension is still good and firm for me to drive it till December when I ship out. Other than that he said, you are looking at a big bill or one hefty job to do it yourself just for you to keep it for the long run.

Thanks for the great information Bushwick!

When you say pumpkin oil, are you speaking on the differential? Also, the one thing I am stumped on is the two studs that go through the differential housing are those attached to the diff? If so what do you do if you snap those upon removal of the nuts that go over them, due to the rust? Are those something I can snatch up at a junk yard, or do I have a big problem if those snap off?

Yes thats the issue I'm having, rust isn't an issue in the front the rear got destroyed by the Pennsylvania road salt.

Thanks for the tips Bushwick. I'm planning on going to a junk yard and seeing if I can find one that looks good and pull it myself along with someone else. I took it to another mechanic to get a second opinion, but by the looks of it, it doesnt look good. 222k miles it was bound to happen at some point, im just keeping it alive till I get back from basic training then im gonna have some money laying around. If I fix this it might be worth riding the car out till it dies.

Thanks!

My 01 Legacy GT cant get inspected due to the rear sub frame being rusted out, is there any other years or models that will swap in? Or am I just looking at 2001 models? Thanks.

There was just a thread a few weeks ago about this. Some people have issues and some people don't with these newer subaru's, I think its 2010-2013 where people complain about high oil consumption. I believe the dealer has told them it is normal. When it is definitely not normal.

Plugs and wires, used NGK plugs with Subaru or NGK wires? Check the timing belt and see if it skipped a tooth Bad MAP/MAF/02? Getting any codes?

2.2 is a very good motor, non-interference. Whens the last time a tuneup has been done? Might explain why its lugging uphills. Probably time for a new PCV valve if it hasn't been done. Lots of people have good luck with just a drain and fill, flushing is where people get iffy. I've never had to add trans x but it looks like its worked for people. But yes still an ideal solution.

If you torque the head bolts down the same way on the drivers side, why isn't it seeping from the drivers side also? The coolant does expand when the car is at operating temp. Could one area of the passenger side head still have to much warp?

02 sensor could easily be the culprit. Ignition components you mean, plugs/wires? Could just be a misfire. How many times has the car overheated? If you neglected the HG issue for sometime, it is probably swap time like you said. Flushes are usually not recommended, drain and fills are.