machthree2

Frankly, In my opinion i like the push button single range 5 speeds the best if you aren't going to off road. The option to use front wheel drive for economy,and on the fly 4wd for snow is awesome. Lets face it, Subarus especially the 2gen cars are made for snow, and re-sell value for applications like that are better if it is set up for snow. Anyone can buy a 90 legacy with all wheel drive for couple hundred bucks.. if you can get a turbo 4wd 5 speed they have posi traction i believe. Just saying.

Project 1: How much for the 5 speed D/R and Diff? Only if you take it out of the donor (bring it down) and spend the afternoon helping me displace the mess in my son's 91. I'll do the Prep and have an engine hoist ready. Do you think that this will absolutely fix the gear ratio issue? It's worth some $$ to you if that fixes the 91. After the ratio fix, I can lift the Loyale.. I can sell my D/R 5 speed or we can dissect it to see if it is a mismatch with 3.9 or later use in the Brat/Frankenmotor. Project 2: Want to keep the Brat a little sane for now. I've determined that I have to go 3" or up to put bigger tires on the Brat. Patrick says he can make a 3 inch lift for me.

What would you say haha... Are we talking the red wagon with the 4" lift.. I seriously want a good 3" lift. 2 is a little short, 4 seems too much. Here is a pic of a 3 inch lifted with my 15's on it. This is exactly the jump ... Here is a local guy that has an 86 brat where I want it ... So now for the list of mods as of today Ej frankenmotor 5 speed D/R 4" lift on the cross members and 3" on suspension 15" 505 Pug Alloys 82 Brat instrument cluster EA81 non-turbo power steering rack http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143334-86-lifted-brat/

love this post as i'm thinking 2 inch lift VS 4. May i ask the rim size and tire diameter in the lifted photos? Are 27 inch wheels going to have rubbing issues?

hey Wyorado, Let me know if you need help with the tranny. If you tear down one of your gl's save me the cross member and the power assisted rack and pinon. The brat will need it when i lift it and put the ej22 in it. There is a cyclops available if you need one. Still need the door if you get out that way. Was in Golden today..

Beautiful ... road worthy and tight as well. Do i see EJ in the future?

thanks for all the cool updates...

Very Nice photography and the subject matter is awesome. Rough job you got there bud. The one with the tractor gets my vote as most of these Brats have lived the farm life at one time or the other. What doesn't kill you makes you stronger! For some reason people just knew that we would want these babies at some point, like a funky time capsule... Hope ours never go the farm again...

Please join me in welcoming this museum piece to my workshop. - 1986 Brat found 10 mls from home (92,000 Original) - 3rd owner - 10 years in field - Heads rebuilt at 60K - Last 7 years a daily driver (20 mls round trip) - Only mod is Cyclops and grill (fixed today properly) - Original everything including speakers and AM/FM - Light rust (Door and back rocker - Plans for 15" wheels (steelies/24.5) and later offroad tires & 2 inch lift - FUTURE: Paint/EJ22T Enjoy this little stock-r with me, http--,,--//

I'm interested in a set if you are still producing..

Hi there I have a 86 brat gl Will they fit? Looking at 2 inch? Caster camber ok Tx Dave

don't know about the adapter plate ... i think it is an SJR .. this is tractorpole's old loyale. i had to get a halfshaft and i got an impreza 1.8 fwd and didn't count splines. i'll go and count the old one. he had a build sheet , may help. i'll check the tranny next .. got a new project this weekend. A stock 86 brat gl with 92 k. the d/r is amazing.

OK - Did the test. The driveshaft did 7.8 turns or stopped at 7 3/4 (270) - Back to square one. 3.9 front Impreza FWD front halfshafts on Legacy Knuckles/hubs - rear is XT6 hubs and (disks I think) Was there a JDM D/R from Japan that has different ratios. This car had a 3AT in it previous to the 5 speed D/R. Still Lost.

Interesting subject as I haven't dealt with this since carb days. Mostly injected these days, and the 88 Loyale I had was injected. I am in Colorado and have been for 40 years. Air density is reduced 2.5 % per 1000 ft as a general rule. We used to always advance our cars by turning the distributor or measuring timing to the point of just back of knock. Meaning, Adjust and giver her load like slow in 2nd and back off until knock went away. This was around 5 - 10 degrees advanced. Always use the same fuel rating when doing this. I'm at 5600 ft and when I would go into the mountains skiing, I would just put in high test which has a faster and more efficient burn, thus cheating timing. Hope that helps..

All Four tires are Exact. Good call. I don't typically drive in 4wd on dry. I have had Loyale's with push button and also an 88 turbo with a switch, and had no problem driving them on dirt or snow / wet conditions. You can definitely feel a driveline strain on this thing? Since I don't have experience with the Dual Ranges, I recently took a Brat for a test drive. Put the thing "temporarily" in 4 high and it was smooth as silk on dry at 5 to 10 mph. Just a quick test to see if it worked. Could definitely tell that it worked. If I put this well built Loyale into 4wd on dry, it won't even move. I will test the driveshaft to wheel rotation (multiple turns) to see if I can tell. Thanks for the post..

Thanks Numbchux I was thinking that the OD on the outer CV 27 spline might be bigger so bigger diameter? But I guess that wouldn't make any difference on hub rotation relating to transmission rotation. I'll check the shaft to wheel rotation when the car is here later tonight. Thanks for the advice.

Thanks Woods - It has FWD .. I'll try the drive shaft measurement when the car is here next.. TX

Please any advice. Picked up a great little 91 Loyale which had an EJ conversion, 5 lug and a swap of the original 3AT to a 5 speed D/R. There is a definite ratio issue when in 4 WD. Can't even drive the car on dry pavement, and on Dirt it is almost impossible. On Snow you can definitely tell that the front and the back are going a slightly different speeds and it make the front wheels lose traction and steering. Making this car pretty useless in snow? It has impreza FWD CV's with Legacy Knuckles on Front, and stock CV's and XT6 rear hubs. The splines counts are strange on front to back. 23 - 27 front and the rear are 23 - 23 to the stub and then using the XT6 hubs. This car shows a 3.9 rear diff ? Can't hardly get the car out of 4WD without backing and jamming lever? Need advice if have any. I'm wondering if the original AT tranny was a 25 spline and the rear 3.9 diff is different. Or having the spline differences are causing the off ratio? Help thanks

Found multiple nice Brats ... basically sitting on the thrown I browse the Net ... Will fly to buy for the right unit. I like your idea of keeping it stock and weber. No since messing around if the engine runs well. I still will probably do an 81 - 87 and do another 2.2 ... Absolutely won't 5 lug it , but may lift 2-3 inch and do the 15 wheels like yours. Will need help. Will know in a couple weeks if I'm staying in the mansion for a few more years... If so, will make a goal to get the $2500 to go get a rust free unit. Probably will be starting in a few months at latest, and we need to get 4 wheeling with these babies. I want to use the dual range as intended without the ration problems I have with the 5 lug XT6 convert :/ talk soon ..

Looking great my Northern Friend! Really piecing that thing together. I'm envious.. I'm an empty nester now. Son took the Loyale so now have no sweetie to work on Looks like I have some catching up to do. I'm sub-less for the first time in 10 years.. How hard to do the EJ as far as stuffing the motor mounts. I'm starting to like the rounded headlight Gen 1's but I'm afraid of the EJ conversion. What's next on the Brat? Let me know when you get ready to EJ her. I would love to help. Stay Bratty DM

Hey There... Mr Scooner and I had this problem. I had a fuel pressure issue which ended up being the regulator. The red VS the grey injectors have different O rings on the bottom so probably best to keep the original ones due to rail differences. I would get a rail with the regulator on it and replace the whole rail to troubleshoot. I was having major idle issues especially when cold and eventually had big smoke blue white troubleshooting. Mr Scooner let me swap in a new ECU and that fixed the smoke and most of the running issues. The blue smoke happened after I messed up the ECU pulling plugs and and injectors to troubleshoot. After the blue smoke, and back to the original problem ("rich when cold and hard to start when hot") I did replace the fuel regulator and injectors for "Rich" flooding. This ended up being the two temperature sensors feeding the ECU, and a half working fuel regulator. BY the way, I didn't have the temp gauge working or hooked up>>>> So the net of it: Bad regulator and leaky injector where causing fuel dumping in but primarily I had a temperature reading problem, and no idea of engine temp. I would say you have a some fuel issues due to regulator (don't buy cheap ones from ebay) and or temp/ecu issue. Usually there will a difference when cold and warmed up in the way she runs. I now have a EJ OBD2 swap and have all the codes after that session HAHA.

OK update..... went back and primary reason for flooding was bad fuel regulator and leaky injector. i originally bought one (regulator) off Ebay and it must have been bad. used stuff can suck. fuel injectors are strange too. they need good seals and one can trouble shoot like any other cylinder issue. pull the connector and see if idle or running changes (it should if good). if no change then obviously that injector is not sealed or bad... the weird part is if you rev or run at higher than idle it seams OK good luck

so i am little confused. the donor car was a 90 legacy with a newer motor? it had the red top injectors in it so it may be newer. the injectors i put in have a conical tip where the ones removed where shorter and more open. when starting cold the rpm's are down at 400 and hard keep running. Once warm, at 900 it runs fine. I'm going try going back to the original type injectors as a test.

replaced 2 nd rail with 2 98 injectors and no change to system. just wanted consistency.the injectors went in tight (good) and i think the O rings will work. . One last problem is that it seams to run cold when started, and i need to check the "cranking voltage from starter again" Otherwise, off to the races.

Went to salvage and got both rails and guy said these should fit. injectors that is Jethro. Well the O rings on bottom are slightly tighter on ID and not as fat as the 90 injector. The rails are mounted different too, so had to switch 98 injector to original rail. seems ok but idle is a little rough. the newer injectors have a cone on bottom and look a little improved. will put the others in this week and report back. i put the 90 lower O rings on this second set because of Rail fit. hope they work. otherwise, the car is running beautiful, and really has awesome power and as fun to drive as my old MG's