machthree2

Got the flywheel back and hopefully test this weekend. Goodguys is in town Put the correct spline disc in as well. Will update. Installed 78 Hitachi with mech primary secondary and rebuild. Jetted for mille hi if anyone is intrested. Will test with Ea 81 and ea 82 PP . Will test for complete dissengage on driveshaft end and throw-out.

OK here is some history and thanks to all comments. Ended up testing with gear motor and 5 speed on bench. The problem is the ea 82 flyweel is set back a bit. Also found that there are differences in Pressure plates. My buddy and I didn't like the look and slop of small bolts(ea81) in ea82 flywheel and grinding the block to fit. Sure the starter fits well. After the throw problems, we played with 9 different fly-plate combos. Turns out that the bigger teeth pressure plates (ea82 and or by manufacture have different finger actuation and throw?) We ended up going back to the ea81 flywheel (for bolt size) and found a big finger pressure plate with long actuation. I think it is a Loyale? The throw is good and throw out bearing is off the fingers, without modifying the clutch pedal. The problem is the starter now needs shims which seems dumb. I took the ea81 flywheel to shop today to shave 140 thousands off engine side. This should do the trick, and proper bolts will be used. By the way, this is the 8 inch smaller setup. Will probably work with 9 inch as well. Not sure why the difference in diameter clutches? Net Net: (8 inch dia / ea81 Fly, ea81 disc, ea82 pressure plate, ea82 throw out and fork, stock cable, stock pedals with stop removed) Will finish post in a week when final assembly is done.

Any suggestions on the Positive Camber (tops wider then bottom) Stock Suspension / knuckles / etc. Thinking of Loyale tranverse links (control arms)?

I think i can do the whole 82 pedal box ... will give it a shot later this week. I'll keep the post going.

Thanks... I may have put the ea82 clutch disk (or legacy) in. I made a 20 mm sleeve to extend the EA81 clutch cable and left the EA81 pedals. That may explain the throw issue. I don't think I put the wrong pressure plate on as I did use an EA 82 flywheel. I'll swap out the pedals and cable with the ea82 on Wed.

86 Brat with ea 81 Used an ea 82 flywheel ea 81 disc 82 pressure plate. When adjusting the clutch cable to fork, the fork touches the fingers but needs 20+ turns to get a clutch disengagement. I'm afraid I'll toast the throwout bearing. Used the stock Brat cable and pedals. Any ideas ?? Tx

86 Brat with ea 81 Used an ea 82 flywheel ea 81 disc 82 pressure plate. When adjusting the clutch cable to fork, the fork touches the fingers but needs 20+ turns to get a clutch disengagement. I'm afraid I'll toast the throwout bearing. Used the stock Brat cable and pedals. Any ideas ?? Tx

86 Brat with ea 81 Used an ea 82 flywheel ea 81 disc 82 pressure plate. When adjusting the clutch cable to fork, the fork touches the fingers but needs 20+ turns to get a clutch disengagement. I'm afraid I'll toast the throwout bearing. Used the stock Brat cable and pedals. Any ideas ?? Tx

absolute score!!! Nicest one I've seen in some time.

ea81 frame is about 2 inches shorter in width than ea82. The recommended impreza fwd axles fit well on ea82, with ej hubs. On my Brat I stayed with ea knuckles and will be searching for stiffer springs and gas shocks. Did the rear disk and new master. I'm sure someone has done this on this forum. Good luck.

I have heard that a 2" lift does not require an extended knuckle. The previous post on extending 1 inch with an ea82 is pretty close I got around 2-3 inches by using a 96 Outback knuckle on my 3 inch lift.Must be an Outback not legacy. Good luck.

Ended up using legacy front and loyale back just under 55 inches ujoint to ujoint. mounted center bearing and fit is really nice. Also put a 3 inch spacer block in for rear linkage mount to the tunnel bolt under boot. This set up the linkage to normal.

Working on Driveshaft this week. Need a 54.125 - 55 inch shaft (ujoint front to ujoint rear) Center to Center. Funny thing is that we are installing the Loyale rear and Legacy AT (95,96,97) front with center bearing. It looks like it is going to work. The previous Brat 5 speed had a stock Loyale driveshaft in it (without lift) much cheaper and easier to replace than a lengthened Brat Shaft.

i'm close to marrying a legacy automatic front to standard back.

Not sure your combo, but we manufactured the linkage to the high/low shifter and cut away a good portion of the triangular support and re-welded it. Everything was a bit short on the linkage when we installed it on the lifted Brat. This was not a Jerry's kit. All I'm stating is that the kit fit one way for a non- lifted Brat and fit differently on my lifted brat with 3 inch under carriage blocks. Not sure why. The tranny is 3 inches lower than stock from body tunnel where the upper linkage mounts and is static. Something had to change based on the angle. All I needed was about 3/4 inch extension on the linkage from the tranny mount side (high /low linkage) and the upper shift bracket. This was accomplished with heating and straightening the bar at the tranny side. My upper linkage is threaded and has an adjustable sleeve. Not sure why my drive shaft length is off from non-lifted to lifted ? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8GZbktD-tcdb1FDSWo1c2k2djA/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8GZbktD-tcdOFpYekM5X2dfZmM/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8GZbktD-tcdQTA3MjRjY3Q2aTA/view?usp=sharing

update. installed 5 speed mod on a e81. this was previously on a Brat with a e82 in it and no lift. I lifted mine with a 3 inch lift. we had to heat and bend and take our the bend for the high low linkage to get extra length. the shifter bracket that is cut for the high low was hitting the gear shift rod in 4 low and high. we also heated the gear shift rod and put an S in it for extra clearance. Moral of story, lifting (or dropping the tranny) changes the geometry, so standard 5 speed kit needs adjustment for lifts. here is another tidbit. the original Brat with 5 speed mod was using the e82 two piece drive shaft and bolted right up. now with lift, i'm off 1.75 inches in length. i am looking at a legacy wagon automatic front shaft to get 1.75 more, and marrying to the E82 back. will post pictures i n a week. Anyone done the two piece drive?

ii'm doing a 3 inch and will be done this week wll let you know

not sure if the legacy radiator will fit. i have a later model impreza radiator. i would pull it and see. Either way you cut a small amount of metal on top to slip in. Definitely go with a 2.2 radiator. Also, take all smog stuff and keep intact. Lastly, pull fuse box from engine compartment for Relays such as AC

speedwagon.. go Denver! I guess the 2.5 straight up (dual cam big valve is a good engine.) The 2.2 heads give you better compression but gotta run premium. Also, the 160 hp on the Franken motor will kill a 4 speed or 5 speed loyale tranny. I would dummy it down to 140 hp on the 2.5. i'm interested in your ea81 spfi mod if you get rid of it. I have a modified hitachi but was thinking about the spfi for my gear engine. Does it reduce and power? Does the 2.5 fit the Brat OK? I was thinking of a 2.2 with 2.5 heads? Fort Collins I'm doing a 5 speed in mine in two weeks, with stock ea81 and pwr steering upgrade. Seriously would like to know more about the spfi mod? Good luck May do a legacy 5 speed with a franken motor or 2.2 turbo. Only if I can modify half shafts to keep ea 81 kknuckles and rear hubs

Did you ever resolve the issue? temp sensors ?

put a 2.2 in it. obdII will give ya 135 hp. put stainless header and if you don't have smog, take out the cat.

Anyone interested in a gen 2 charity build. I know of a good wrecked one that could be married to a good front half one and we could basically save one car out of two that will be crushed. We would donate the labor. The only problem is that the main brat has no title so would be a salvage title.. We have motors, and seat, 4 and 5 speeds etc. Just a thought ...

Anyone suggest a good Bubble Alignment tool that clips to Rim. The center hub Magnet type is not versatile enough ... Need to do many alignments..

NOW thats what I'm talking about!!!!!

Depends on the region. Specs off the ebay add were kilo's. Maybe overseas. Here, I put a value on a rust free, dent free, with good interior (183k?) 3500- 4000 if motor is perfect. i'd upgrade to pwr steering, better brake master, rear disks, 5 speed, and 15's . Keep the original paint and decal, and start at 6500 - 7000. Upgraded and rust free adds to rarity. Why not This isn't a 4wheel beater example. Plenty of those around.