BirdMobile

Any word on how this is working out for you?

Yeah... Would be more believable if they scripted his horse breaking down, so he had to take a GL to catch the flight.

Please keep us updated. I'm probably doing mine with Permashield this weekend, if the weather stays good.

I'm attempting the same thing - Weber plate sealing without a paper gasket - just sealant. My first attempt was with Permatex #2 type nonhardening gas resistant sealant. Too watery - the vacuum pulled it into the intake and I had major vacuum leaks within a week. Second attempt was Permatex #2 on the inside edges, and Anaerobic sealant on the outside (to keep the vacuum from pulling in air that would cause the #2 to "seep" toward the intake. This worked fine for about 6 weeks, then the same problem developed. I'm thinking the constant heating/cooling cycles with expansion/contraction causes the Anaerobic to eventually crack. My next attempt will be with Permatex Permashield (gas resistant polyester based RTV) that I just picked up yesterday. This stuff should (theoretically) be perfect - not as liquidy as the #2, and stays pliable (to handle the expansion/contraction). I'll keep you updated.

Center drill first (google it), then use a SCREW MACHINE LENGTH drill bit. Do it on the largest/tightest drill press you have access to, or preferably a vertical mill. Many problems like you describe are due to long drill bits on sloppy machines.

The documentation on these sucks. I would personally first verify voltage at the connector, then disassemble that section and look for dirt or other contaminates. Barring that, warrantee it.

85-86 Red Digi-dash 87-88 Green Digi-dash From my research, they are apparently not interchangeable, wired differently apparently. I'm going to be working on mine (1986) in a few weeks, I'll post anything I learn about it. P.S. Gary - did you get my email re: EJ22 ECU? . .

I've searched and searched for a paper filter for my Weber. I've finally given up - I'm going to modify my old Subaru air filter box to attach to the top of the Weber, and buy the standard Subaru oval paper filter.

Check your fuel filters.

Everything I've read seems to indicate that it's better to hold on to your OEM axles and remanufacture them. The aftermarkets don't seem to hold up. There's a thread "CV Longevity" on this forum that details it all.

"The one to blame!" I hate AWD. And automatics. . .

Yep. These cars were from an era when quality and reliability actually meant something. Modern cars are about bling - "features", computers, DVD players in the back seat, "OnStar", and airbags and antilock brakes to save us from ourselves and our crappy driving. Car companies design everything on the edge now, squeaking every penny out of the mechanism until all that is left is just BARELY adequate to outlive the warranty. We are expected, as consumers, to buy a new car every 3-5 years, and in the meantime take our rides to the stealership for overpriced service if anything goes wrong. Engines are so complex now that you need thousands of dollars worth of specialy tools to even begin considering working on it yourself, for anything more than a simple oil change or tire swap. The last modern car I looked under the hood of was so full of computerized boxes and sensors, it's a miracle anyone has the patience to unplug all that crap from the 3,000 sensors before attempting to pull the engine. To hell with all that - give me an old, reliable, easy to fix mid-'80s boxy station wagon any day! Sometimes "progress" isn't.

Auto companies want you to buy a new car every 3 years now, and give their dealership (stealership) mechanics a ton of money until then. Old reliable designs like the Subaru EA series that you can work on yourself don't fit in well with that agenda.. .

Checked for what? Ownership? Crash history? Stolen? Key cutting patterns?

Google translator; Impact socket number 26 and 28 to remove the the bocamasas and shootings of front and rear traction, insert 1/2 jointed, slide lever, long short extension, given 19 spark plug, needlenose Expander to remove wheel locks brakes etc. And basic oil.

22mm Wrench added to list. 14mm Hex Key added to list.

I've always used an SAE 7/8" socket for the crank pulley... I'll pick up a 22mm to do it right from here on out. Already have a 36mm impact socket for the wheel hub nuts... forgot about that one. One of the first tools I bought for working on these cars. 8mm Hex Key socket added to my list. What size Hex Key do I need for the engine short block plugs? Also... no Torx on these cars, correct? . . .

Greets! Filling out my specialty sockets (impact, universal, ratcheting wrenches, etc.) and I need to know if I'm missing any commonly used sizes for mid-1980's Subaru station wagons. I've found, from my recent rebuilds, that most bolt heads on the cars are: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm Along with a few 13mm in places like the battery terminals. Am I missing any? I don't want to buy a bunch of expensive specialty sockets I'll never use, but I want to cover all the bases for these cars and get a few nice tools that I'll use for future work on them. Oh... info on hex key sizes and any specialty fasteners would be helpful too. Thanks!

Cable ties? You're a braver man than me! I'd use light gauge welded link chain and bolts, personally.

I'm guessing fusible link, or ignition module. Yes, a failed IM will keep the fuel pump from getting power... the fuel pump control module looks for ignition pulses before it will allow voltage output to the fuel pump.

There's one fuel filter under the hood, and one under the car attached to the fuel pump.

My EA82 was gutless to the max. While rebuilding it, I discovered that the passengers side timing belt was off by one (1) tooth. Check for this - makes a HUGE difference. Other suggestions - new distributor rotor, cap, wires, spark plugs. New fuel filters (there are 2). New air filter. Check ignition timing. Kill your EGR. If you want a real HP increase, and it's a carburated engine, replace the carb with a Weber. Best thing I ever did for my wagon!

So... For later OBD2 (1995+) ECU, is there a aay to "trick out" the ECU using jumpers, or feeding it a voltage or pulse train or something to make it ignore EGR? I will NOT be installing an EGR engine into any car of mine... Side question, where do I need to go to find the wiring differences between the 1995 and the later years ECU wiring? My OBD2 ECU came from a 1995 engine, unfortunately.

No love for the ECU?

Niiice... Never would have thought of that! I love this forum.