keith3267

You would have to find an OBDII scanner that has the software to read manufacturer specific OBDI codes. OBDI did not have generic codes, they were different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Haynes produced a manual for OBDI codes that covered how to retrieve them, no reader required, and what the different codes meant. You would be money ahead to get this book instead. Edit: looks like that book is no longer in print and I don't see any used ones for sale. Try the reference section of your local library to see if they have a copy.

If you do not hear any clicking sound when making a sharp turn and accelerating, the CV joints are good. It usually only takes a week or so from the time the boot tears until the CV joint starts making a clicking sound. Once it starts making the clicking sound, it is too late to save. In a parking lot, stop, turn the wheel all the way to one stop, or just short of full stop, then accelerate. Repeat in the other direction.

Try this, go out to the car at night, open hood, start engine and then observe the area around the coil pack. A common problem with coils is not that the coil itself goes bad but that the housing cracks and the spark jumps through the housing to the nearest ground. It can usually be seen at night.

Look for damage to the primary wires to the coil before you replace it, but in all likelihood, it will be the coil itself. Look at the coil at night in the dark. Often the problem with a coil is that the housing cracks and the coil arcs to the nearest ground. It is a lot more visible at night.

Tire rack lists this tire as the factory tire. Under the pictures are the results for their surveys. At the bottom of the survey results, there is a link to all the all season tires for this vehicle so you can compare, you may actually have a different brand tire because I think all the vehicles at the dealer where I bought by Legacy had Bridgestone tires on them. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+G91F&partnum=26HR7GEOHT&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Subaru&autoYear=2014&autoModel=Forester&autoModClar=2.5i&tab=Survey You can also look at all the sizes available and compare to other tires. Some all season tires are a lot better in winter than others. If you have that one shown as OEM, that was one of the worst in snow and ice.

If you fingernail catches on it, it could still be due to residue and not a scratch. If your nail catches on it as you approach it, its residue, if your nail doesn't catch until it is in the middle of the scratch, then it is a scratch.

My recommendations are similar to the above but I would use a polishing compound instead of claybar. Do not use a rubbing compound, only a polishing compound. Then coat with your favorite wax product. If you don't have a favorite, I highly recommend the new cross link polymer wax by Meguires called Ultimate Wax. You need to use the polishing compound first, or claybar if you prefer. The crosslink polymer waxes are very tough and scratch resistant. Between waxings, wash with Mothers Wash and Wax, it has the most wax in its formula so you may not need to wax more than once a year or even longer.

In older designs, coolant flowed through the heater core if the heater control valve was open, it bypassed the thermostat. There are several designs in use today including some that use two thermostats and the heater core is used to help keep the engine temperature more even. These do not have a heater control valve and the coolant always flows through the heater core. Blend doors under the dash in the hvac ducts control the heat and cold. I'm am kinda suspecting that the blend doors may be getting frozen and I'm not sure there is much you can do about that. If by very cold, you mean -30F or lower, you may need to add a little pure antifreeze to your system. Have you tested it yet for concentration?

You get more corrosion protection at 2:1, but that only counts if you forget to change it at 5 years, which I have on occasion.

I've never had a flow problem at 2:1. The 2:1 ratio is used in Alaska all the time at temps below -50F and they don't have any flow problems. Until you reach the freeze point for the mix, the viscosity of antifreeze is not significantly different than for water.

They will fit the tires, but they may not fit the car. The label does not list the hub ring diameter which is critical, but since it has ten holes for the lug studs, it probably has a large hub ring diameter. You will need to get hub ring adapters or these wheels will always vibrate and run rough. It is also possible that they don't have the correct offset. If the offset is wrong, it will shorten the life of your wheel bearing and can have interference problems. This would be most likely if the rims were made for an RWD vehicle. Edit: if these are Subaru factory rims, then there should not be any problems with the hub ring or offset, but the 100/115 leads me to think they are aftermarket.

The only problems that I am aware of (all years) is drivers who can't handle the power to weight ratio but think they can, and drivers who use that power in inappropriate situations. People have to know their limitations.

When ever I change the coolant in any of my vehicles, I always use a 2:1 mix antifreeze:distilled water and have never had a problem with overheating, even when pulling the grade out of Death Valley into California when it was 126°F at the ranger station in Furnace Creek and running the AC. I agree with over 70% being bad, I would not do that, but even the undiluted antifreeze has about 4% water in it, going up to 70% as measured by mixing the antifreeze and water myself ( and not by lab analysis) would be OK. If I was mixing in a lab where the concentration could be definitively determined by analysis, I would not exceed 67%.

Cheap trick for the coil pack, if it is the issue. Pack some dielectric grease around the coil tower where the spark plug wire goes. Coat the outside of the plug wire, boot and right down the tower to the edge of the coil itself. A lotof time, there is a hairline crack in the tower and the grease will contain the spark. You can buy a little pack of this grease, enough for one coil, for about a buck at most parts stores.

Those silly panels are there to keep water off the accessory drive belt and out of various electrical connections. I don't know why you were charged $800 to replace one of those panels, when I get one torn off, I head to the hardware store and get some body washers (big washer, small hole) and remount the original panel. Works every time.

Imdew had the best answer. You may need to have a mix a little richer than the typical 50/50, maybe go 60/40 or richer. I think one possibility is that the coolant in the heater hoses froze. I think it would have worked eventually whether you shut down or not. But there is one other possibility that has not been brought up yet and that is the blend door got stuck. This fits your scenario a little better as when you restarted the engine, the blend door cycled and worked the second time. There might have been a little moisture or condensation that froze around the blend door the first time it was supposed to cycle.

I've heard this term called dog-walking or crabbing or just wandering. When caused by bad roads, I have heard the term bump-steer. Must be a regional term. On independent rear ends of front wheel drive vehicles, the wheels are usually toed in slightly. If not, they will toe out under load and that makes them a bit twitchy. I'm not sure of the specs of RWD or AWD with independent rears but I will have to agree that this is an alignment issue. The car should have a one year warrantee on the alignment so I would start at the dealer. If the dealer blows you off, then find a shop that will give a free alignment check. Don't let them align it but just get the free readout and then take it to the dealer, or call the CSR number in the owners manual and report the dealer.

Looks like a major lawsuit in the making here. There are so many ways to fool the system. Looks like Subaru is hiring graduates from the Rube Goldberg school of engineering. The weight sensors worked just fine, but since wet clothes, cushions and laptops can confuse the system, the airbag may either deploy when it shouldn't or not deploy when it should. The electric parking brake is going to bite them in the backside eventually too. I hate it when poor engineering gets past management and into products. The dealer says they can't override the system and the reason is not physical but legal. If they override the system, and the owner (or subsequent owner) puts a child in the front seat, the airbag could deploy on a minor accident and injure or kill the child. They will not take on this liability. Your options might be to see if the seat can be retrofitted with the older pressure sensor, or if a seat from an older Subaru can be substituted. Maybe a seat from a 2014 Legacy. Next would be a custom upholstery shop that could re-pad your seat to your specifications and move the sensor to a location where it still works.

What is "ghostwalking"? I have been working on cars for 50 years and have never heard that term.

You must be very young heartless. Replacing wheel bearings in pairs is old school and is still recommended by most mechanics today. I replace axles in pairs as well because all my axles have failed within a few weeks of each other. Both were bad anyway.

Are these wheel bearings serviceable, that is can they be repacked from time to time. Every non serviceable wheel bearing I have seen so far used ball bearings instead of tapered rollers. This would be the first for me.

It is correct. It is insignificant compared tot he momentum of a 2800 lb vehicle, but when the vehicle is lifted off the ground, that momentum is not a factor. The drag of a new bearing is very significant.

Not based on weight? How does it tell the difference between a child and an adult? The whole reason for the sensors was to not deploy the air bag if a child was in the seat.

You just replaced the drivers side wheel bearing so it is going to have more drag than the passenger side. If you backed off the pads the way you described, then the brakes are OK. Wheel bearings are usually replaced in pairs unless there is an overriding reason, like a new but defective bearing, i.e new car with bad bearing.

Look at your brake pads, is the outer pad wearing out faster than the inner one? If you see a big difference in the remaining pad, then you need to clean and grease the guide pins on the caliper. When they don't float easily, they hold the outer pad against the rotor.