sirtokesalot

do i need heads from another 95 2.2? what other year subaru heads can i use on the 1995 legacy l 2.2 engine?

im pretty sure i cannot save the head what exactly happened to cause this thogh. the passenger cam is no longer strait with the head its cocked over at an angle. im guessing it needs new heads would like confirmation. what caused this to happen? this is an ej22 so the valves shouldent have contacted the pistons.

he put an aftermarket cat on it. aftermarket cats suck your lucky it lasted 3 years it needs a replacement.

ive used a wrench to get the o2 sensor out successfully on an 03 outback should work on the 2000 take the o2 sensor out and go for a drive without it installed it will be loud as hell but if it has power without the o2 sensor installed its a plugged exhaust. take the front sensor out.

there is no feel through the wheel just the sound. it seems to be coming from somewhere inside the column and only happens when it is cold outside as im driving and the heat warms up the car the sound stops and wont come back until the inside of the car cools back down.

any ideas? i lubed what i could find inside the column but it still makes this sound.

i think they can be used on either side i think only front or back makes a difference left and right is possible to swap them? someone will chime in with the correct answer on this im sure.

ive nursed a rear cv along for years by repacking it with grease. it was clicking under loads going strait and turning. boot was missing completely i packed grease into it used a contractor garbage bag cut a piece out wrapped it around the cv end zip tied it in place and packed extra grease into it for good measure. that cv shut its self up for the next year and a half until i scrapped the car.

so my car 1998 outback has been making this rubbing sound from the column when its cold. as the inside of the car warms up the sound goes away. what can be causing it? video is of the sound it happens when turning left only and no sound when turning right. video is for sound purposes when it goes blank i had the camera right on the column.

i have a 1998 intake and a 1995 intake what is the difference between the 95 one that's basically just a tube form the filter box to the intake vs the 1998 version with the big bulbous box part before the intake and the random tumor tubes growing off it going to nothing? first picture is the bulbous one on the car the second picture is the tube like one in the back seat of the old car.

id buy a wrecked car with a good engine and swap it. could probly have a whole car with damaged body around 200 to 500. i currently know of a 95 legacy around here they've been asking 300 has a whole lot of rust but probly a good engine. probly wont work of a 2007 thogh. not sure if your going to find one or an 07 that easy.

has nobody done this?

can anyone tell me how ti wire the newer 3 wire alternator into the 98 2 wire setup? the alternator i have has a black/red - black/yellow - and a blue/red wire on its plug and my car currently has the factory 98 2 wire setup.

it can be bought by the quart online around 30 bucks. it does work but after around a year and a half you can see bubbles forming and if u poke at them and pop them there's gas behind them. if my bmw was not so rusty and high miles i might have put a tank in it or repaired the tank properly but the car has an estimated 340,000 miles on it and at this point im just driving it into the ground. the rust has taken over and every summer i keep saying its gonna die this year but it just keeps on going. ive owned it since 121,000 miles and paid 550 for it. only changed the timing belt and water pump.

i have had luck using p.o.r. 15 to fix the gas tank on my 1987 bmw of witch a new tank is in the 600 dollar range and im not dumping that kind of money into this car. ive been patching it for years i have to redo the patch work every about year and a half. i just paint it on many coats of it and it seals up the tank that i can fill it up without leaks. if the hole is big you might want to put some kind of fine mesh there before you start coating it in p.o.r. 15

junk yard 10 bucks for the bracket.

as the title says my buddy has a 2002 forester has the 2.5 in it he has a radiator leak for most of the summer but says he never let it overheat and was adding coolant all summer recently i replaced the radiator and stopped the coolant leak. now hes been telling me that he has still had to add coolant every other day its dissapearing and not leaking. i checked the car yesterday and the coolant was full but he told me that he added some that morning. i couldn't see any leaks and the car is not overheating. where is the coolant going? the oils normal its not puffing out white clouds. is this the start of head gasket failure?

yep so after a bit more digging behind the cluster and not finding anything out of place or burnt looking i would up just installing a one way diode in the wire i ran to the ceiling lamp. it worked the door ajar light for the drivers door now only comes on when the drivers door is open like it should.

well dam i thought it was good then i noticed today that anytime the interior light is on it will show on the dash that the drivers door is open even if its closed now so my simple solution of just running a wire from the switch to the lamp is not quite right and would still like to get it fixed to work normal.

and there it is. i just wired a wire from the switch to the ceiling lamp and it works now. too bad i lost the delay function though.

i thought about that but the switch is on the pillar and i would only assume that the wire for the roof light wont go into the door before going to the roof. also the light on the door is the only one that comes on with the drivers door. im thinking the new wire from the switch to the lamp is going to be the easiest option.

well ive pulled the drivers kick panel down and inspected the wiring i could see there but dont find anything suspicious looking. the only differance between the drivers door and the other doors is that the drivers door has the delay setup for the lights. im thinking that if i dont figure out the issue im just going to run another wire from the light on the door up to the ceiling lamp so it will at least come on when the doors open.

sorry bout that its a 1998 legacy outback. yes the door ajar lamp does come on with the door open. the little light on the side of the door also comes on when the door is open but the ceiling light does not. again only for the drivers door all the other doors will make all the interior lights come on.

well i recently noticed that when i open the drivers door the interior lights wont come on like they used to only the light on the drivers door is coming on when the drivers door is opened. if i open any other door the interior lights will come on like normal. i dont think its the switch because the light on the door its self does come on when the door is open just not any other lights. does anyone know if this is common or what it might be?

i wasent too worried about the connectors i could solder new wires if needed the part i wanted to use was the level sensor. does it work the same way and could it be adapted to fit on my current pump assembly.