sirtokesalot

the whole thing is that this engine came from a car that i had driven for 3 years without ever seeing the check engine light on for anything except a speed sensor. this makes me think something on the car is bad. the engine had new plugs and wires before the swap occurred and from what i could tell there's not much vacuum related to leak all the hoses i used were in good shape. the only differences are that i used the cats and o2's that were on the 98 instead of the ones that were on the 95 although i did save the 95 ones and i used the 98 air box instead of the 95 air box witch i also have.

I have repaired the exhaust leak p0420 came back this morning driving to work 386 miles since the last time. I suppose I probly should have swapped the o2 sensors while I was under the car fixing the leak.

before the swap took place i had done plugs and wires i did not do pcv valve there is a small exhaust leak at the flex pipe after the cats and o2 sensors i figured it would not cause the code though being behind the cats i might just change them anyways when i do the engine because ill have to cut and weld a new flex anyways how much harder is it to unbolt the cats and bolt the other cars one in before welding the flex in. was just curious on the code i want to be sure it goes away. the engine did not have any vacuum issues before the swap and the 420 code is the only code coming up for the last 5 check engine lights before that it was alternating between p0440 and p0420 i haven't seen p0440 in over 3000 miles now.

so my car has been throwing p0420 codes around every 600 miles give or take a few is the p0420 code a definite bad catalytic converter? ive been putting off doing anything about it untill this summer when i pull the engine for head gaskets and any other gaskets it might need. i have the cats from my old car that the engine came from they were not throwing any codes in the old car would just putting the other cats in stop the code?

yes as long as u keep up on checking oil levels and make sure its topped off. mine leaks oil bad i have the older ej22 but the head gaskets as well as many other gaskets have been leaking oil for years since before i bought it i have to add about a quart in between oil changes witch surprises me as it leaves small oil spots everywhere i park it after every drive and sometimes can see oil smoke from oil burning off the engine when i stop. im planning to pull my engine this summer to do a bunch of gaskets and hopefully stop the leaks.

mine has 216,000 on the ej22 in a 98 body with 264,000 the ej25 i pulled from it had its 3rd blown head gasket from what i was told by its last owner

its fixed now the screw went through 2 wires and i think was grounding on the frame. i cut the wires fully soldered and heat shrink over it.

well the wiring i had done looks just as good as the day i had done it no melty happening. its blowing one of the headlight fuses when the high beams are selected witch is causing the light to go dim. it dident click in my head until i started typing this that i had put a screw through the plastic panel under the engine bay to keep it from falling down and dragging on the road. turns out the screw i put in drove its way right through the wiring harness that runs along the lower radiator support. yay looks like i have to get under there again and pull the loom off and see what damage i caused. i dident know i screwed into the harness until now as i had gone out and checked.

i grounded it at the headlights. both headlights ground wires are tapped into soldered and ring terminal to ground

i noticed today my passenger headlight is alot dimmer than the drivers side i also noticed that my fog lights and low beams seem to be shutting off when i change to high beams even thogh i had changed it so they will stay on when high beams are selected. what should i be looking at for problems i havent looked into it yet as i just noticed it tonite on my ride home and its dark out so i dont want to mess with it tonite but i figure i could ask what to check in the morning

yep it was an ej22 with egr

i just did this same thing on my 98 outback limited i used a 95 legacy l as my doner car it all bolted in plug and play.

time for a visit to a local pick and pull salvage yard

i had the engine out and another one in in a day and driving out of the garage. i can see it being done in a days time if u find the right person shop though would probably have it a few days possibly as long as a week. my brother did my moms head gasket on her 04 outback last year and had the car for a week.

will the power steering pump from a 2002 outback work on a 1998 outback? my parents have a 2002 parts car and ive noticed im losing power steering fluid and its pooling under the pump running down between the timing covers and out the bottom. yes i know about the oil pressure sensor but its not wet around that sensor it is wet under the power steering pump and my power steering fluid is very low.

with the rusted tone ring the abs was overactive and kicking the pedal back at me even when pavement was dry. no abs light. good luck if its rusty like these cars normally are you wont get the sensor out in one piece to check for debris on the sensor you will likely have to take the rotors off.

the only abs issue ive ever come across so far on these cars is rusted tone rings. i can confirm u can cut a tone ring in the low grooves and then bolt the 2 halfs on the car and it will still function normally. this is how i did mine when my tone ring was bad

i had my pulley come completely off one night while driving got lucky and the pulley bolt and belts were all still there just not bolted to the engine any more. i cranked that thing back on there very tight and never had issues with it again after. this was 3 years ago.

maby i should ask this different. what wire on the back of the rear defroster switch needs to see 12v power to turn the rear defroster on?

i learned that the rear defroster switch turns off when the key is shut off and does not turn back on when the key is turned back on unless the switch is pushed again.is there a way to bypass the switch so it will turn on when the car is remote started? my remote starter unit has an aux output wire i can program to turn on features like this but how would i wire it to make the rear defroster come on? currently i do not have the aux out wire enabled from the remote start unit as i did not think it was needed and figured i could just leave the switch on when i shut the car off. the goal is to make the rear defroster run while the car is running off the remote start system but then after turning the key it would turn back off and i would have to push the switch to keep it going.

nevermind ignore this

quick update and question the remote starter has been working perfectly since the install however i learned that the rear defroster switch turns off when the key is shut off and does not turn back on unless the switch is pushed again. is there a way to bypass the switch so it will turn on when the car is remote started? my remote starter unit has an aux output wire i can program to turn on features like this but how would i wire it to make the rear defroster come on? currently i do not have the aux out wire enabled from the remote start unit as i did not think it was needed and figured i could just leave the switch on when i shut the car off. the goal is to make the rear defroster run while the car is running off the remote start system but then after turning the key it would turn back off and i would have to push the switch to keep it going.

i have edited the wiring slightly in my earlier post so it mentions every connection. the system works not sure what was going on yesterday if anyone wants to install a remote start in a 1998 outback the wiring i explained above is correct.

not sure what changed between last night and now. i plugged the unit back int he same way it was last night and now it works 100% starts shuts off locks unlocks horn light flash so i think all is good now.

good news i unhooked the battery for a half hour just hooked it back up and the at temp light is behaving normally now turning on for a brief second when starting then shutting off. back to square one get the remote start installed and working. can anyone verify if this is correctly wired from the information i have provided?