montana tom

LOL ; Sorry matt, don't mean to be a bummer. Maybe you will get lucky here. If you can, check compression (not all testers will fit down there) if you can't do that then pull a valve cover, and roll it over. You have to know what your looking for here... so look for the worst (bent valves)and hope for the best (unplugged connector). Not sure how to test the cam/ crank sensor. I'm sure somebody on u-tube shows how. I'm thinking that , you have spark , so you must be getting a signal from the cam/crank sensors. Oh and plugs not wet... stuck open valves and they can't get wet, as the fuel leaves as fast as it arrives. Check Your Valves... You don't want to know but ... you need to Know ! Good luck

That is an interference motor. I have yet to see one break or slip a belt that did not bend the valves. I would pull a valve cover and turn the motor over by hand. If any valves are bent the rockers will be loose. The crank sprocket and left side cam sprocket must absolutely be original to that car. Is it possible the cam sprockets got switched (left & right )? That will make it not try to start. The tabs on the rear of the crank sprocket are also a good place to inspect, if somebody pried that sprocket off it is very easy to snap one off. It has been my experience that if the tabs get broken the car will not run... but... it will try to start, so probably not the crank sprocket. Cam, crank sensors not working should throw a code. In your first post you said the car will not crank without a battery charger helping, even with a new battery ... later you said it is cranking strong ? Did you fix something? Slow cranking without charger help could be an indicator that the bearings are trying to seize up on the crank, although i have not seen that happen on a boxer. Most likely you have bent valves . Pull and save at spaldings should have another motor cheap or maybe a set of heads. Foreign engines in Coeur D alene will have the 2.0 takeout engines available (800-552-1595) around $700 last I checked.

wow, thats a tough one. Did you get to drive it at all or just pull back where it was and shut it off? The sensor you are thinking of is the duty c and it is all the way at the rear of the tranny, so not that. If I were to take a wild guess here I would say you did damage to front pump on the transmission or the torque converter when trying to mount it to the engine. One question , did you unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel first ? I know it sounds like a dumb question but recently, I was called out to a neighbor's house to help him get his motor back in and there it was (looked so stupid) a torque converter bolted to a flywheel with a foot of shaft hanging out there, and he was trying to slide it in the tranny with the motor. I don't know how he even got it out. Luckily for him he gave up early and called for help. We unbolted the torque and slid it in the tranny making sure it was engaging the pump, dropped in the motor and all was well.

Gary is right , I've fixed many deer smashes like yours.As long as the air bags didn't deploy . Pull it straight, bolt what you can and drive it. Of course if you do it yourself, it will never look as good again as it did pre-deer. The thing about hitting a deer, If you don't try to dodge it . As long as you stay on the road and don't hit anything else. It 's not comprehensive...it's considered an act of god and your regular insurance would cover it. Around here hitting a deer is as common as... oh it's snowing again ! Dodge the deer and go off the road or hit a tree and it's reckless driving. No insurance coverage for that... crash into the furry critter knock it rump roast over tea kettle but stay on the road and it's all good.

With the new "glue " they use to install windshields I doubt you could remove one from a wreck. The windshield is now considered an integral part of the body strength and they use a super high power bonder to attach it . Even if you got it out without breaking it would take forever to clean the bonding area up. Just call a glass shop or three and ask prices of the glass and labor.

My 88 1.8 had a noisy tick to it, that sounded like a lifter...came and went whenever it wanted at low rpms . Was so loud at times, people would stop on the street to look at us! Ended up it was the oil pump! I have not had a 2.2 do this but I wouldn't rule it out.

What year is this car and what engine is in it ? You won't need intake and exhaust gaskets unless you rip them, and the valve covers are fine unless they are dripping. If this is a late 90's car with a dohc engine then you really should consider removing the engine. The double cam motors require pulling the rocker assembly , to access the head bolts. Again it can be done in the car but it's that much more difficult.

Yes , it can be done. You will want to unbolt the dogbone on the top of tranny & the motor mounts so you can jack the motor up higher, making sure not to crush the connectors on top of bellhousing. It is easier to remove the motor but plenty of people do it in car. Buy quality subaru head gaskets or fel pro, stay away from china junk. Because you're that deep ,consider timing belt, idlers, water pump, cam/crank seals , tighten oil pump backing plate. None of those things have to be done.

If the oil is on the pass side it's for sure the oil pressure sending unit. Easy, easy fix. If the oil is on the drivers side it could be, probably is the head gasket. Not so easy, easy, but still do able.

See if it will start. If so check for bubbles in overflow. Wet plug wires could be a possibility.If it just won't start. Pull easy timing cover and check timing. Check bottom of heads for leakage. Poor quality head gaskets could fail in 34,000 miles. If it got hotter than you think even good head gaskets will fail. Yes you can do the gaskets yourself, plan on removing the engine to do it, it's a lot easier than in car.

The water pump or thermostat could have caused the overheating, but it's not why it isn't starting. The 8" crack in the plastic part, I can only assume is the radiator tank, which should have sprayed antifreeze all over the place. Hate to tell you this but sounds like you lost a head gasket. If it doesn't start this morning then try holding your foot to the floor when you crank it. If you can get it to start see what happens... smoke out the exhaust ? runs perfect ? watch the overflow tank for bubbles, a sure sign of a bad gasket. Subi's are known to lose a head gasket after 100,000 + miles. If you can inspect the bottom side of the heads where they bolt to the block, any green drops hanging there , oil ?

Definitely junk yard. I'm sure that you can rebuild yours but why bother, they are very available used.

If it is just the pads, it's fast and cheap. If you need rotors also it's still fast, maybe 1.5 hrs. What you need to know is, if you will need calipers. This adds lots of extra $ to the job, still should be in the 2 hrs range. What should it cost??? well shop time varies from $30-$90 an hour or more. Call a local parts store and ask them prices on just pads, then add rotors, see how much that is. Then ask how much "loaded calipers " cost , you will not need pads if you buy loaded calipers. Add rotor cost to the loaded calipers. Now you know apx. parts cost. Find out what the hourly charge is where you want to have your work done and see what their time & parts estimate is. Try to locate a mechanic who knows subarus, stay away from big name shops , they tend to replace everything even when it is still usable (liability issues if you ask them) cost will be astronomical . Same at a subi dealer... usually good work but massively overpriced on parts and labor.

Hmm, ah maybe do not step on the clutch pedal when the slave cylinder is unbolted... release fork won't move if the slave isn't pushing it and the slave will pop apart. Instead remove the dust boot and move the release fork by hand. I think fairtax is correct about a broken release fork. If so it will require removal of the engine or trans.

Ya , its the head gasket. I just did a HG job on a 2007 obw. Same symptom, oil pooling on drivers side. They had me diagnosis it last year and have tried living with it ... oil stink was to much for her. New HG's and its all good.

Could be a bad pressure plate, but I'm thinking a worn snout on the tranny is causing the throw out bearing to bind. They offer a kit for this, but you'll be pulling the motor again.

On my 2001 5 speed obw I had to replace the entire drive line... with shipping it was around $450.00. Drive line shop claimed they couldn't do replacement /greasable ujoints on that year car ,yet my new replacement came with replaceable and greaseable joints... go figure.

My 2001 obw 2.5 sohc made the exact same noise , i ignored it as long as i could stand it... finally pulled the motor out and tore it down. Rod bearings shot big time , not spun, but the worse one literally fell into pieces when opened up. The rest were badly down to copper. Had the crank checked and the rods resized, new bearings and rings and its back up and running. If you wait it will most likely throw a rod or just seize up.

I don't have a brand to recommend,Go with a complete axle but don't buy a rebuild go with a new manufacture. Original equipment would be best but may be cost prohibitive.

I suggest you go with the helicoil, it will help the next guy.

my 01 obw had that problem. I had to cut the wire to the latch to make it go out, seemed to be a rust issue. I have since replaced the entire latch & handle assembly .

water pump is under the timing covers, to replace it you need to remove the timing belt. It is recommended that you change the water pump, timing belts, cam seals and crank seal , the tensioner and all idlers. A good gates kit is available on amazon, don't buy the cheap china kits on ebay. Your motor is a double cam engine and is an interference motor. This means that if you must time the belts properly or you will bend valves if you starter crank the motor. If you are a novice mechanic , this may be more than you will want to take on.

Jon; All the hyd clutches keep the T.B. in constant contact with the pressure plate. The amount of pressure is negligible. I have over 270,000 miles on my 2000 OBW original clutch and T.B.no problems. my 2001 OBW has 210,000 , (wifes car) did have to change the clutch on it (surprise !!) but no issues with T.B. . I think you got a monday morning throwout bearing and your new one should hopefully last 200,000 miles

My 94 legacy did that , remove the drivers seat and under the carpet you will find the wires for the power windows. Mine were corroded , short work to trim the old and make new connection.

Contacts in your starter solinoid are probably to blame . If you have an assistant try tapping with a small hammer on starter while helper is trying the key. This is a fixable problem if your mechanically inclined or replace starter.