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It should have come with the single cam engine if it is a 2000. That's a phase 2. If they have a head gasket leak it is usually a small external one that can be cured by Subaru's additive. If it has been overheated all bets are off. I have a manual at home and if nobady has posted info I can look some of the specs up tongight. I'd still look for the post on the phase 1 as a lot of the procedure would be the same, but a phase 2 job should be easier. I'd start by removing the engine if it were me and you really need to buy or down load from Endwrench a manual as this is no Toyota. You are going to want to service a few other items while the engine is out. Every seal will need to be replaced the the oil pump o ring and screws should be checked. There is a seprator plate on the rear of the engine to change and the rear seal needs replacement. If it needs a clutch if manual now is the time. On the front you will need a timing belt and possibly a water pump and tensioners.

Great! Man are you lucky that was all it was. I was think of taking the whole car apart and cleaning every electrical thing before you were done.

First what type of 2.5 do you have as they are very different motors? If the early type (phase 1) someone just posted exactly what you want a week or two ago and a search should give you what you need.

but I am thankful for all the practice I got on slippery roads when I grew up. This has taken me safely though a few sideways situations.

Tensioners are usually not much trouble on a car with regular maintence. The problem is a lot of folks think cars require the same as thier fridge.

column shorts happen every now ant then because of all the movement. Go to a truck place and get a heavy circuit breaker. Then you can test all you need to and it will just pop.

Have you ever heard of Stabilent? Look it up on the web. It can be applied to bad connections and it can help to reestablish contact. i'd be tempted to remove all the connectors and disassemble the computer down as far as possible and apply Stabilent. It sounds to me that at best you are running in limp mode.

One electrical test is to spray a refrigerent on the sender. In Canada you have handy refrigerent this time of year. Cheaper too.

Yes, there are a number of threads on this. Just do it the same way every time.

Now you're up to the hard part. The cable is not too bad on the last couple of cars I've done, have not had to do it on the Subie. I suspect this will only be a challenge to your body, not your mind.

Most common trick to try is to have a friend push down and jerk it while you pull on the cable. If the cable has not come off or broken this usually does it and the cure is to lube the latch.

Every now and then I turn them off by accident, but I leave them on most of the time too. I put DRLS on my BMW and it just turns them on when I start just like the Subie. The only thing is I don't have the option to turn them off like the Subie does, and it can fool you into thinking you have the lights on and have no tails.

Phase 2

and on my street you could find at least five unsafe cars. A ball joint fell out of a late model pickup the other day and was towed in. The oversized rims and tires probably did not help that one. Inspections are not all that bad an idea but they should be rational. If people were perfect cars would be well maintained, but I don't think that is going to happen.

I wonder if this should not be in the FAQ too as a lot of folks have head gasket questions.

It is the same tranny in a heavier car with a larger engine. This make me wonder if others will have the same problem later. It does sound like your car had more than its share of gadgets and problems with them. Did you happen to run the numbers on what the extra problems have cost out of pocket? I put a bunch of money in my Forester to bring the service up to a good level. I just looked it up and I have put over six thousand bucks in it since I got it. Subaru refunded me about $1,200 of that. It has been a couple of years since it had anything but an oil change and a $60 ox sensor. The ox sensor was scheduled out at 100,000 miles and I ran it a bit over that. The car now has 125,000 and runs as well as when I bought it. It's really starting to make me feel that I'm getting my money out of it again.

In the 30s cars were geared low and an overdrive came to be offered. On early Jeeps a very popular accessory was the Warn overdrive. I think they had to be in two wheel drive though. Probably the best answer is to have a six speed tranny for a Subaru.

My Forester is really spinning up at 70 mph but that is the nature of the beast. With no low range the car is right on the border of running out of power in the mud, a six speed would help. I have had rental cars in the last couple of years that turned 1500 rpm at the same speed. The rental would not be much use in the mud however.

If the airbag did not go off you should be fine. Make sure nothing is hitting the tire. I have seen a rear ended car run poorly afterwards froma few reasons, bent exhaust, fan in radiator, and electical problems. Make sure it runs ok and no bad noises.

I must have been a bit crabby that day. It is true that for some folks these can be great. Most of the folks I know who have them use them as another gadget. If you were doing sales or delivery they would be handy. I'm still not that impressed with them, but I am not constantly trying to find new addresses. If that's what floats your boat have at it.

Warmer weather helps the 2.5s too. My slap is nil on a warm summer morning. I think the slap and the head gaskets that leak in the cold were developed to punish Canadians for not buying enough Subarus. It just caught some of the rest of us as collateral damage.

On bobisthoilguy some folks have reported less slap with Havoline dino oil. I'm still running the Mobil1 15-50 and my slap is still reduced, but this is a fairly heavy oil and I don't think it would be suitable for low temps. Keep us in the loop on how that works out!

If you can find one get a mainshaft froma junk tranny. They are the best of all.

what marks did you use for the timing belt?

Sure sounds like tired seals doesn't it. If you did a new engine you could probalbly drive it until the wheels fall off.