MountainBiker

They can take their measurement from wherever they want to. They only have to pick a method that is somewhat defensible in court. However, from the numbers I've seen, Subaru has never measured the clearance from the pumpkin and claimed it in their documents. That is probably because the pumpkin is so much higher than all the other low points further forward. Like I said before, Subaru didn't put a significantly steeper angle on the shafts. So talk about struts and springs is pretty meaningless.

You can't go any bigger in diamter than 215/65-16, or 215/70-15, or 205/75-15, which are all about the same size. Those tires will gain you 11mm of ground clearance, which I definitely noticed. The rear strut spring base prevents you from mounting a larger tire. If you have a 5 speed, you'll lose a bit of slow speed grunt though, due to the change in gear ratio.

Take a look at one, and you'll see that the shaft angle didn't change, at least not a noticeable amount.

I think they just tucked the exhaust y-pipe up higher. That is just a guess based on looking under one when they came out.

That is a pretty good distance on the sand! Glad it worked out okay. Would you think that most folks would be happy to put their vehicles through the same use/abuse during a meet-n-greet?

King sells springs that are stiffer but not taller.

Stiffer springs are available from www.KingSprings.com, but I haven't tried them.

I'll find out the brand of the AM axle. The owner of the shop said that they had bad experiences with rebuilt shafts not lasting too long, and had better experience with this AM brand. It is beginning to sound like I should have it done again, but with a Subaru axle. That will probably cost me.

Good luck in finding a 2" receiver for a modern Subaru. I've looked all over for one, and if it exists, the manufacturer is keeping it a secret!

The Forester had a torn inner boot on the front right driveshaft. I usually do all maintenance and repair myself, but didn't have time, so I paid a very well regarded shop to do it. They replaced the shaft with new (not rebuilt) aftermarket unit. Now it vibrates when accelerating through 15-20 mph. It doesn't do it below or above that speed. It is worse when turning right, and almost non-existent when turning left. The mechanic thinks it is likely due to the 40mm strut top lift I have (SubaXtreme), and the new shaft that is likely tighter than the old one that came off (it had ~70k miles on it). It could also be that the aftermarket shaft has slightly different tolerances than a Subie shaft, but the AM unit is supposed to Meet Or Exceed OEM spec. Anyway, he offered to put another shaft in there, and if the problem goes away, then he'll pay for it. If the problem persists, then it is likely due to the lift, and I'd have to pay for the 2nd shaft and install. What should I do? The shaking is annoying, and probably isn't too good for the motor mounts.

That one should be okay. It is fairly straight so it's easier to keep the speed up. It also seems to get more traffic, so you're more likely to get some help if needed. Don't forget the shovel!

You sometimes have to slip the clutch quite a bit to get moving in the sand. There are times when it is difficult to pick your way through a sandy section with embedded rocks at a low enough speed. But if you've been in deep sand with it already and get around okay, then you should be good.

With an auto, the parking brake can help, but "driving through the brakes is even better: http://www.burniemorgan.com/grand_vitara/driving_thru_brakes.html

For those that don't know' date=' here is some info on the Pumpkin Patch: http://www.desertusa.com/ovr/du_orvpupkin.html I got to the PP okay with the stock Forester with an automatic, but there is some very deep, dry sand, especially this time of year, so there is some risk of getting stuck in the sand. There are usually lots of folks out and about to help you, but take a shovel and a good tow strap! Also be ready to lower the tire pressure down to 15psi or so, and have a pump to air up. I don't think I'd try it in the OBS with a stick shift. Here is a map of AB: http://www.parks.ca.gov/pages/638/files/ABDSPmap.pdf I got to PP via the Arroyo Salado campgrounds, then from Arroyo Salado wash, take the turn off to PP (can't remember if it is off Arroyo Salado or Tule Wash). There are many other ways to get there from S22 in the OHV area. The palm oasis shown on the map right there are worth a visit too. With only 5 hours, I'd recommend the slot canyon on South Palm Wash, accessed from S22 at the start of Calcite Mine Road. You'll probably have to walk the 1 mile from S22 unless the road down to the wash has been improved since I was there. Font's Point is good too (but not so good with a stick shift), and of course Borrego Palm Canyon and the visitor's center if you've never been there. There is a lot more good stuff, I just have to think a bit more about what will be reasonably possible for those without low range or an automatic.

That book is okay' date=' but their trail ratings are too coarse. Some easy trails aren't so easy in a stock Subaru. For better granularity on the ratings, I recommend the "SUV Backcountry Adventures" series of books: http://www.4x4books.com/cas4wd.htm Stock Foresters are great on 1 and 2 rated trails, 3 rated trails are okay too, but some are slow going and sump protection is a must. You can also expect other bottom parts to be hitting on some 3 trails. 4-5 rated trails doable with lift and All Terrain tires. I've been all over the trails listed in the SoCalBackcountry Adventures book in Anza Borrego, Joshua Tree, Death Valley, Barstow area, Mojave National Preserve, Colorado River, etc.

I'd like to be there! I vote for Offroad drive, meet-n-greet, BBQ. Grand Canyon will be way too cold. How about Anza Borrego Desert State Park? Lots of great places to go there, even with stock Subarus.

That is what you should be worried about! Got any pics?

Plenty of springs for the Outback on page 21, and they will sell to you directly from Australia: http://www.kingsprings.com/kings_master_catalogue.pdf

Looks good!

And a little more technical. The VC never really "locks". It requires a speed differential to start doing much, which I've found to be a couple of tire revolutions of the slipping wheel on the front axle. Then one of the rear wheels starts spinning, but at a little slower rate than the spinning front wheel.

No, the manuals are 50/50 due to the DIFFERENTIAL, not the VC. The Auto doesn't even have a center differential. Remember driving a rear wheel drive car or truck and spinning one wheel? Those vehicles have a 50/50 split between the rear wheels due to the differential, and what good does it do you?

That was my understanding as well. To get a noticeable difference, a change of calipers and/or rotors and perhaps even the master cylinder is usually required.

Sounds like a plan, once we decide on a date!

Anytime I forced 4x4 mode, I threw a light. Until I put in a dummy resistor load, making the TCM "think" that it was still connected to the solenoid.

Might've been me. I tried a few things, and different resistor values, until I was able to engage the override without throwing a failure light.