MountainBiker

I'm interested. I think that the Big Bear trails will have too much snow though. How about a high desert location, with the potential for forays up into the mountains as snow permits?

Yep, the SG rear struts have more tire clearance, but they have less travel than the SF struts. Without a locker or even a decent LSD, articulation (or lack thereof) is what limits my Forester's trail-ability. So I opted for more articulation!

NICE! I wish I could fit tires that big on my Forester!

Huh? What is that?

I still haven't done this yet. I do have the material though. If someone comes up with a decent way to mount to a crossmember, I'd sure like to see how it is done!

This one too, Fluid Additive: http://www.drivetrain.com/subaru_dt.htm#Fluid%20Additive

Good find! This kit sounds interesting: -K85944 Shift Enchancemt Kit Forester 1998 F 4WD 4 Speed Transmission Code 4EAT -This kit addresses: planetary failure (burnup), 3rd clutch failure, forward clutch burn=up, soft 1-2 shift, band burnup and low lube flow.. Installation of this kit can improve performance and life of the transmission.

Yes, this sometimes works. It definitely increases the torque delivered to the spinning wheel, which in turn increase the torque delivered to the stationary wheel. Unfortunately, the parking brake is also applied to the other wheel, so this doesn't always get you unstuck.

I don't think anyone is splitting hairs here in this side discussion, which is about the definition or torque and torque split. It matters in this context because Subaru claims a 50/50 Torque split, or 60/40 or 90/10 in various situations. A 50/50 torque split means that both wheels have equal torque applied to them. So if one is zero, the other is zero. BTW, torque has no direct relation to wheel speed, so equal torque can be applied if one wheel is spinning and the other wheel is stationary. In this case, whatever torque is needed to spin the wheel (say 30 ft-lbs just for discussion), then the stationary wheel also has 30 ft-lbs applied to it. This 30 ft-lbs may or may not be enough to actually turn that wheel or move the vehicle. A true 50/50 TORQUE split can (and often does) make one wheel spin and the other remain motionless (and the car remains motionless).

What are you talking about? A locked 50/50 transfer will still send power to each axle. Be it a hydraulic lock like the automatics, or a mechanical diff lock or the selective 4wd like the old ones. One wheel slips and you lose torque at other wheel on that axle(unless you have a LSD diff on that axle) but not at the other axle. An open center diff goes from being 50/50 to practically 0/0 when there no traction at one wheel. Subies with the Viscous center diff will still transfer some torque. But that is not an open diff, it is limited slip. Mountainbiker please read up on differential types and theory. open center diffs will leave you with no torque. a locked 50/50 will give you torque to both axles no matter what. The key word in what you say above is TRANSFER. When the VLSD engages, it transfers torque, which is no longer a 50/50 torque distribution. An open diff never goes to 0/0, it is always 50/50. So when one wheel spins or is in the air, it has equal torque applied to it as the other the other wheel, and both will have near zero torque. This is what you get with 50/50 TORQUE distribution.

Excellent! I look forward to seem your results. Which is exactly my point! After one wheel slips, torque is still evenly distributed 50/50, and you are still stuck. That is why I always mention open diffs when somebody claims the 50/50 torque distribution is actually a good thing in poor traction conditions. I think we need a tongue in cheek smilie, which would help to show why I always bring up the open diff!

Yeah, 50/50 torque distribution always gets you unstuck. Open diffs give you 50/50 torque split... If you don't feel the need for the mod, then you don't need the mod, it's that simple. Seems that most of those that have used it enjoy the benefits.

From California DOT http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/traffops/trucks/trucksize/chains.htm#axle: And for my Forester at least, according to Subaru, chains must be put on the front wheels only!

Nipper keeps forgetting about me and my 3 years of successful use! He must have me on ignore! Look at post 17 of this thread, and a few other threads where I posted my results. I don't recall if I posted in Andyjo's long thread, because I wasn't on the board at that time, and I had already done the mod.

I'm anal, so I rotate tires every 3750 miles, and change the synthetic oil every 7500 miles. But I only check the alignment when something feels wrong or I buy new tires.

Don't know about 4EATs that old. But recent ones will disconnect the transfer clutch if ABS is engaged. During other braking conditions, the 4EAT computer has a map that control what is done, but I really doubt that the transfer clutch will provide much anti-skid control. The clutch isn't really up to that task.

What about me? I've been using it for 3 years now, and I don't even get the flashing light! There are at least 3 other Foresters doing the same as I did (no flashing light) on SF.org. One of them has had the switch in place nearly as long as me. That is very good advice! Don't come crying back to this message board if this mod doesn't work for you, or causes damage. I consider this mod to be "major" with some risk of damage to the vehicle. This isn't a "bolt-on" mod, and the organic control unit has to be functioning properly! I haven't installed the dropout relay yet, it is on my list of things to do.

This comes from Subaru marketing speak. An OPEN differenttial has a 50/50 torque split. How do those work for you in low traction situations?

GR2s have some damping, the stockers don't! If you want near stock bouncing action (and plush, I'll agree), then try Monroe.

Since I've been mountain biking and motorcycle trail riding for a couple decades, I've seen millions of acres of land completely closed off to wheeled travel (even non-motorized). Yes, this is a very important subject, and Cal4Wheel is an excellent organization. At the very least, folks need to send their money to advocacy groups. In addition, trail restoration, letter writing to gov't officials, trash pickup, etc, need to be done. I'm a member of (and endorse) the following groups that work to keep trails in good condition and OPEN. These are the ones I remember off the top of my head, there are probably others. National Orgs -Blue Ribbon Coalition (MTB, motorcycle, 4x4, Snowmobile, hiking, rock climbing, hunting, fishing) www.ShareTrails.org -International Mountain Bicycling Association (MTB) www.imba.com (members can buy new Subarus at dealer cost!) -American Motocyclist Association www.ama-cycle.org State Orgs -Cal4Wheel (4x4) www.Cal4Wheel.com -Utah Shared Access Alliance (motorized) www.usaall.org -Association of California Trail Riders (motorcycle) -Distric 36 (motorcycle) www.ama-d36.org

Is this meet going to happen? This is a long trip for me, and if it isn't happening, I'd like to know, since it is only 3.5 weeks away.

It is 1/15. Somebody needs to change the thread title

Sure, there are MANY things it COULD be, but it isn't any of those things, it is the transfer clutch solenoid. I know because I have a switch to control that solenoid alone, and the sound is directly related to switch position. Doesn't really matter though, does it? Makes for some good thought and discussion I suppose. grossgary: Thanks for responding to my comments, that clears some things up.

I think the resistors are only required on some of the newer models (like mine) to prevent the TCM error light. Glad to hear that you got so many miles out of that old 4EAT! Yeah, it would be nice to see some links to all the alleged failures.

But it isn't just "anything", it is the transfer clutch solenoid.