MountainBiker

You could always try the resistors that I used in order to prevent the MIL. One resistor provides a dummy load to the TCM, making it think that it is still connected to the solenoid. The other resistor is connected to the solenoid, to allow the voltage to bleed off slowly, to help prevent the solenoid from "bouncing". I reported all this quite some time ago, take a look at one of my responses to Andyjo's post. In the 18 months I've been running this mod, I've only twice gotten the MIL, which went away on the next start up. BTW, if you have to resort to using wire nuts or crimp connectors, then you are not qualified to do this mod! On wires leading to and from the TCM, only soldering is prudent. Put it back to stock, but have somebody solder that wire!

I wasn't trying to infer that the auto will fail, more that the leak is nothing to worry about until significant oil loss occurs, or you are concerned about polluting the environment due to dripping oil. I'm in Sonoma County, about 50 minutes North of San Francisco. The riding available near SF is pretty lame, but up here it is more technical and fun.

Read my post above for the answer to your question and instruction on how to do it.

Why replace/rebuild the transmission when only a solenoid failed? Craziest thing I ever heard. Just replace the solenoid, which you could do yourself, presuming that is what failed. See the attachment for the Transfer Duty Solenoid in the 99-02 Forester, which should be very similar. Trnsfr Duty Solenoid 99-02 Forester.pdf

My money is on rear main seal also. Let it leak until it start creating a puddle on the ground, since I'm guessing it is just making a mess on the engine at this point. Even a couple of drops on the ground isn't significant oil loss. When your transmission goes, then replace the seal.

Hopefully this weekend. The newer OB has a completely different strut shape and suspension design. When I looked under some OB's, it looked like it wouldn't even be a close fit.

I believe you are correct. My tires are 27.0", and are maxed out on the '02 Forester struts. Since I measured the '96 OB struts to have about 3/4" more clearance, that only gets you to a 28.5" diameter tire, and that is just a guesstimate.

No pics of the lift yet. I haven't even got around to measuring the new ground clearance! Not quite sure where I read about the 29" tires, but it was regarding fitting under the strut, not necessarily the bodywork. My tires are fairly close to rubbing in a few areas, so larger tires, even if they would fit under the struts, turned out to be a poor option. The tires are okay. They are a little better offroad than the stock Geolandars, and about the same on-road. I'd like something a bit more like a real All Terrain tire though. The only other option for my 16" wheels that looked decent was the General Grabber ATs, but I think those would be quite poor on-road. And as much as I hate it, most of the Subaru's life is spent on the pavement.

Well, I did get a rear '04 Forester strut. It does have more tire clearance than the '02 F'ster rear strut, and just about identical tire clearance to the '96 OB rear strut. The '04 Forester strut is also a little longer, so it would have lifted the rear of my '02, but it unfortunately has less travel! I'm not willing to sacrifice travel (articulation) for tire clearance, so I went with new KYB GR2 struts designed for my '02 all around. Got them mounted up at the same time I installed the SubaXtreme lift, Woo Hoo!

Actually, in the 4th post of that other thread, way back on February 1st, I told you what you needed to know! Then I said it again in post 12, 17 and 21. After that, I gave up!

Yes, the rear OB struts have about 3/4" more vertical clearance, due to the perch being mounted up higher: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=447461&postcount=4

If you guys are hitting when off the ground (on a jack or stand) then you will also hit occasionally when driving. Why not make it so it doesn't hit ever?

Post your measurements, and I'll compare that to my Forester, if you wish.

Here is how the measurements were taken for the "overall length" and the "strut bolt to spring perch": http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/forums/showpost.php?p=37177&postcount=31

Yes! Posted this a while back, nobody seemed to care. Measurements were done on brand new, fresh out of the box KYB GR2 struts, which I confirmed are identical in dimensions to OEM, according to a KYB engineer. Picture comparo: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=447461&postcount=4 Measurements: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=447460&postcount=3 I have since measured '04 Forester struts, but I can't find the info at the moment.

What year Forester struts? The earlier models up to '02 have shorter rear struts, while the length of the fronts hasn't changed.

My 2002 Forester got the following scores on a homemade actual 20 degree ramp, with the tires at 36psi: 100% Stock Forester = 397 100% Stock, but Anti Sway Bar end links Disco'd = 458 Yes, it can make a slight difference between front and rear, but it just comes down weight distribution.

Yes.

Exactly!

My 2002 Forester got the following scores on a homemade 20 degree ramp, with the tires at 36psi: Stock = 397 Anti Sway Bar end links Disco'd = 458 http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/forums/showthread.php?t=2832

Looks pretty good! Tip: to get a more accurate representation, you need to get the camera really far away, and then use a telephoto lense. This will make the viewing angles more accurate to reduce error. A shot from infinity (kinda hard to do!) will make the tires on each side line up perfectly, and the ground appear as a plane parallel to your camera sight.

I've heard of people doing it. But you have to get going really fast! You need a hill or a push from another car. Better to get a set of jumper cables for $15.

Once again, this is not the case on my '02 Forester. The only way AC compressor comes on, is if I physically push the AC button. BTW, the service manual lists the following for what will trigger an "idle up" condition: -Alternator load rising to some threshold value (not stated) -AC compressor being on

I see where you are coming from. My Toyota does this, and I hate it! The Forester doesn't operate the compressor enough to engage the fan when in defrost mode and the AC button is off. As far as I know, if the AC compressor is on, the radiator fan is on at the same time, 100% of the time. But I will do as you suggest, and see if the AC clutch is engaging occassionally. However, I rarely have the HVAC in a mode where it is blowing air on the windshield, because that tends to dry out my eyes, since I'm tall, and the air blow right onto my face.

Thanks for the offer, but I have a couple Forester friends around here. Assuming it is working as it is supposed to, I would only disable it temporarily. The only time this comes up as an issue is when I'm offroading.