MountainBiker

Since Outbacks come with larger tires than the Forester, go with Outback struts. My tires almost touch the Forester struts, and the tires are just 215/65-16 (27.0" diameter).

There a lot people on SubaruForester.org that have taken off the stock springs. Hit them up.

So you experienced Lift off Understeer. Just want to point that out, since don't think anyone here has listed that as a trait of Suburus. The only explanation I have for that is that there was so little traction that engine braking slowed the tires to the point where they slid sideways.

This might help.

If you don't mind your rear tires acting like skis being drug behind the car, then get FWD. I like the rear tires to roll at a speed close to the actual car speed, to help find SOME traction, and that is one of the benifits of AWD over FWD. The thing is, once a significant skid starts (assume the car is in neutral for the moment), the tires have very little impetus to roll at the speed the vehicle is moving. I have observed the front wheel of motorcycles stop rotating after a slide initiates, on mud and pavement! This is without the front brake engaged! So you want to have something to keep the all 4 wheels spinning at close to the actual speed of the vehicle. This is why 2wd motorcycles are currently being developed. With the engine keeping the wheels rotating at near actual vehicle speed, you have a much better chance of achieving traction, thus ending the slide.

Here is a hint. The VC is fully enclosed, while clutches should be visible since they are exposed to the diff oil. So if they look the same, and you can't see clutch plates, my bet is VC.

That is exactly correct for the Subaru VLSD

Forester "S" models had it standard in '01 and '02

Numbchux explains the pressure pretty good in this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=409065&postcount=13 Keep in mind that the solenoid stops pressure from building when it has power, and full pressure is applied when the solenoid has zero power. But if there is a fluid supply problem, then full pressure may not be achieved. Worn transfer clutch plates can also cause slippage.

If everything is correct, then you have a worn out out transfer clutch, or something is keeping fluid pressure from building up to the full amount. When I drive in circles on pavement with the 4wd engaged, I don't get bucking, I stop! I suppose I could gas it enough to get bucking, but who wants to put that much abuse on the components? If you aren't getting binding while turning, then you don't have 4wd!

Actually, you may be exempt from the dyno test! Don't offer to put in the fuse, then they have to come up with a 4 wheel dyno. Yeah, Subaru!

After seeing the OBXs on E-bay, some internet searching turned up some disturbing reviews from Honda guys. So please, mount one up in a Subaru and tell us how it works! I thought Phantom Gripe was just a cheap friction LSD, putting aluminum against aluminum for the friction? Does this look helical to anyone? http://www.phantomgrip.com/how_it_works.htm I'd say definitely not a copy of a helical type.

Thanks for the replys. STI LSDs can be found cheap, that is why I was asking.I suppose I'll be looking at the OBX front LSD, but haven't read too much feedback on those.

Will they fit? I'd like to get the Suretrack front LSD from an STI, and perhaps the clutch rear LSD.

The resistors I put in eliminated the error light. In use for a year or so, and only once have I gotten the flashing 'AT OIL TEMP' light. Since it hasn't repeated, I don't know what caused it. The resistor values and locations are/were documented on the recently dead SF forum. BTW, I think the TCM stores codes that won't be read by OBDII reader, have to use a Subaru Select Monitor.

You can see how I installed a "ctr diff lock" almost a year ago: http://www.subaruforester.com/viewtopic.php?t=9268 Nothing strange, no idiot lights going on. Works great!

Yeah, the Viscous Coupling rear LSDs aren't worth much. Hard to tell if it ever does anything! Of course, to allow it to work, you have to use the proper technique. When one rear tire starts spinning, you can't let off the gas. You have to let it spin, allowing the speed differential to heat up the silicone fluid in the LSD, and then it will start transferring (some) torque to the other wheel. It may or may not be enough torque to actually turn the other wheel!

As people have stated, you needed more power. This could've been achieved by clutch slipppage and higher revs. An automatic transmission would also do the trick.

The VLSD isn't too effective. If go to the trouble of doing this, you should really look for a Torque sensing type LSD, like I think was available on some WRX models.