MountainBiker

One more thing. Check out the following link for an awesome description of traction aiding devices, primarly limited slip units. http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/diffs.htm

I've seen that page many times, and I got your point the first time. THe fact remains that it is not locking in any way. In fact, the two drawings show the same thing for the viscous coupling and the viscous locking (sic), with the only difference being that one is more of a schematic representation, while the other is a cutaway of the real part. You can even see that on the picture of the viscous locking (sic), is says "VC Sip Limiter". Assuming they meant Slip Limiter, it is still a limited slip unit, not a locker. I'm done.

$40 for my car. Check it out at https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

The struts don't do any lifting, but they are a good upgrade. Personally, I really dislike spring lifts, since they decrease downtravel/articulation, and without locking diffs, as soon as one tire gets light or lifts off the ground, you are stopped unless you use lots of momentum.

Oh, then how do you know this? You can be assured that my numbers are correct by looking in any engineering textbook.

Again, locking is the wrong term. It is a viscous coupling.

Aluminum is roughly 1/3 the weight of steel. It is also about 1/3 the strength of steel. If you use aluminum and actually make it lighter than the steel equivalent, you should seriously consider getting an experienced engineer to design it for you.

It is not "locking". You can see the drawing on the link you gave. How can it possibly "lock"?

I agree with Nipper. They do come up on E-bay now and then. But the viscous coupling isn't all that helpful offroad, or onroad for that matter.

Take a good look at the length of the Baja rear struts, because they may be quite a bit different and may not fit on the Imp.

Seems like your best solution would be Outback struts, since they have a lot more tire clearance. Another option is 2003+ Forester struts (98-02 Forester rear struts have less tire clearance). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52126

Yeah, and show us how you supported the bars up out of the way while disconnected.

Really? Is the lift for the Forester ready yet? If so, give us some details: Body lift amount/suspension lift amount, since the description on your site doesn't make sense for a Forester, which doesn't have a factory 2.5" lift.

I've got some '02 Forester struts and '96-99 Outback struts I'm measuring up just this week, trying to determine if OB struts will provide more tire clearance and a lift on my Forester. The rear OB struts are longer by about .5", and I haven't measured the fronts yeat. The Rear OB struts have a LOT more tire clearance and the shaft is a larger diameter.

There should be no problem with the axles or anything else really. You might be able to get away with disconnecting just one side, assuming you have enough clearance for the bar to rotate up and down. I find that the lack of articulation stops me on some trails before I run out of ground clearance, so this is a great mod!

I've used some guidebooks called Backcountry Adventures that have a good road difficulty rating system. Here is a link to the Utah volume of these books, looks like it is on backorder at Amazon, so you may want to check other stores (my library had the California books): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1930193122/103-9139961-8570241?v=glance&n=283155 Trails are rated 1-10, 1 is and easy dirt road that any passenger car can usually do. I've done many 3-rated roads in the Forester here in California, and they are difficult, but usually doable without damage. A 4 rated road will likely be impassable to a Forester unless you are willing to do some damage. Keep in mind that road conditions can vary a lot depending on precipitation and how recently any grading was done. I've used both of the California books, and the ratings are consistent, so I'd expect the Utah book to be of similar quality. Title and Autors from the Amazon listing: Backcountry Adventures: Utah : The Ultimate Guide to the Utah Backcountry for Anyone With a Sport Utility Vehicle (Backcountry Adventures) (Paperback) by Peter Massey, Jeanne Wilson

Post some pics! I'm especially interested in what will be your rear mounting points. That is for sure!

Oh yes, a lift would be great! Even with a lift though, the 4EAT pan is a real weak point. After spending some quality time under the car, looking for mounting points, there is nothing looking too good. So here is what I'm probably going to do, barring an epiphany or a better suggestion: http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/project-cj7/oil-pan-skid.htm Luckily I have access to a sheet metal break at work, so I don't have to resort to the c-clamp break shown in the link! Obviously, I'll just be making a mostly flat plate, with the front and rear edges rolled over around the pan. I'd be worried about more heat buildup due to the lack of cooling air running across the pan, but I have a large transmission cooler, so no worries. Hopefully I'll get this done in the next month, or at least before I head out on the trail again, because I'd hate to cause some transmission damage! I might just order a replacement oil pan. That way I can start off with one that isn't damaged, and I can work on the guard while keeping the car in service.

Has anybody made a guard for your 4EAT pan? I've put a few little dings into the pan over the years, but thanks to an excursion a couple weeks ago I have a significant size dent. I can remove the pan and push it out, but it is only a matter of time before I do some serious damage! I found some good mounting points at the rear of the 4EAT housing, and there is the frame crossmember in front of the exhaust pipe. I could make a simple sheet to go between those points, but the trans needs to be able to move relative to the frame crossmember, so that won't work. Any ideas, suggestions, photos of solutions?

I'm sure somebody has already looked at and studied the strut dimensions. Anyone?

I've seen lots of posts about putting Forester or Outback struts on OBS and IMPs, so does that mean I could fit Legacy Outback struts on my Forester? I have oversized tires, 215/65-16 (27.0") Pirelli Scorpion ST, and they have only about 4mm of vertical clearance from the spring base on the rear struts! (see picture) I'm thinking that the OB struts will provide more clearance for larger tires, since various reports here say that 29" tires will fit. It would be real easy for a rock to get wedged in there and cause some damage. I'm at the point where I need new struts, so now is the time to find out if this will work. And if I get a little extra lift while I'm at it, even better! What years of OB struts have the best chance of fitting on my 2002 Forester?

Sure, IF you cut off the spring perch and re-weld it in a higher location like ForesterRanger did! When you do that, you can go to larger tires. Are those the kind of modifications being talking about in this thread? If so, be careful not to boil the oil in the strut when you weld!

Why do you say that? That tire, 215/75-15 is a 27.7" diameter, and it would probably hit my '02 Forester's stock rear struts. 215/75-16 wouldn't have a chance!

You want to see what it will look like lifted? Then just lift it! I had the same question for the Forester, so I used two jacks to lift it up 2". Measure the distance to the ground, then place one jack under the front cross member, and one under the rear diff, and lift it 2" (or whatever the size of the lift). Take a look at it, take pictures, whatever, that is what it will look like.

That's not the stock size. 205/70/15 or the later ones have 225/60/16. Same as the Outback. It's not that they touch on the side of the strut, but the spring perches. Height is the concern. Wheel offset can pull them away from the strut side. I know it's not the stock size, because I put larger tires on it! The 215/65-16 is the largest diameter you can do on an '02 Forester. 27.0" 215/65-16 Upsized tires on Forester, barely fit under spring perch 26.2" 215/60-16 Stock Forester, all years (some have 17" but same dia.) 26.6" 225/60-16 Stock Outback So my point is that Outback struts should have more tire clearance than the Forester, since they start out with larger tires. However, I have no idea how interchangeable the struts are, from model to model and year to year. I do know that strut top bolt patterns have changed on the Forester a couple times.