subynut

These brochure pics are awesome! Thanks for sharing!

Oooh...looks nice, TheLoyale!

Nice, l75eya!

Ran a quick inspection of the PandaWagon in preparation of the trip to SubieFest: Brake pads, brake lines, CV boots, fuel lines, coolant lines (have a small leak at the lower radiator hose, but it's manageable), fluid checks, checked the intake tubing since I was in there not long ago, readjusted air pressures for the extra weight of the road trip, and tightened up one of the exhaust connections. Still need to clean the interior, exterior, do a CB check, adjust the clutch, download Sunday's sermon onto iPod, munchies, drinks, pack the car, etc....

That is cool!

Why, yes, I do have gauges there: From top to bottom: Oil Temp, Oil Press, and Coolant Temp.

Thought these were interesting....

Sure, you could have antenna farm II:

No problem, man. Let us know what you found to fix it.

When I installed the UEL headers, I had to remove the sandwich adapter because the filter was resting on the exhaust pipe. So, to get my oil temp and pressure gauges working again, I drilled and re-tapped the spare oil galley plug and installed the oil temp sensor in the rear galley hole. I then re-tapped the galley plug on the front galley port and added a T to the line and put the idiot light sensor and the pressure gauge feed there. So far, I have noticed no difference in pressure, but the temps climb sooner than they did before. I expect the temp to be a little higher since the sensor was on the output of the oil filter and since it was hanging down in the cooler breeze, I imagine the oil temp was lower. Now that I am reading the rear galley port, it will be interesting to see what they do out on the highway when I go to Subiefest.

That Subie is awesome! Nice pics too, I think I found a new wallpaper.

Could the throttle cables be a little too tight? Or a cable is sticking? How about the TPS, have you checked it's output for a smooth change from closed to WOT? - you can check it with an analog ohm meter after making sure there's no binding of the cables - pull the connector off and check the resistance readings. (You can get some of the FSMs here to find out which pin is which) The reading should be smooth throughout the entire throttle range. If it's jumpy, it probably needs replacement. With the proper adapter cable and software, you can also get those readings through the ECU via the ODB-II or SSM ports. Hope that helps.

That is a neat rig!

Uh Twitch, I think that's considered not good.

The exhaust sounded awesome when I had just the magnaflow muffler, but the drone was awful! That's why I added a glass pack to cut down on the volume. Being the wagon is the daily driver, road trip car, and anything else I take it on, I wanted the exhaust to be a little more civil. [hijack] My F350, THAT makes a racket! But the V10 sounds so awesome with those true duals! [/hijack]

Thanks, man! They are the Enkei RC-G4s. I have the 15x6.5s, but it appears Enkei now only carries the 15x7s.

Couple pics I snapped today:

Replaced the exhaust on the PandaWagon. Tsudo header and cat pipe, glasspack, and Magnaflow muffler: The Tsudo is not quite a perfect fit for the EA82 chassis, he cut the pipe just after the cat and rotated the pipe up just a wee to keep the flange from catching everything. Glasspack to cut down on the drone. Replacement Magnaflow since the old one finally called it quits. Guess 7 years of bounding down dirt roads, trails, RallyXs, and WOT racing was just too much for it. Overall, it gives it a mild tone with no drone, but enough sound that a car nut's ear will pick up on the subtle note while keeping the public's ears happy. Silent, but deadly.

That's awesome! A 360 buggy? That thing is cute and hideous at the same time. How did they manage that? In other words, yes, I'd daily drive that!

According to the FSM I have (88 XT), the VSS signal should "fluctuate above and below 2V while moving the car slowly." So far, I haven't found any info on the input voltage requirement on the Phase IIs, but the Phase I ODB-IIs are looking for a 5V pulse. On the PandaWagon, the speed shown in the ECU is pretty close (within about 3 mph) of what the speedometer is showing. Even though mine is ODB-I, there have been plenty of engine swaps into the 1st Gen Legacy/Impreza chassis with Phase II ODB-II engines. So, Hmmmm... Do you have an oscilloscope you could monitor the VSS input to the ECU?

That looks awesome!

If the VSS was not hooked up, wouldn't the ECU be complaining about it? The ODB-I ecu in the PandaWagon throws the VSS code when it's not connected.

Sadly, no. Other things get me distracted and it gets dumped on the back burner for a while. Thanks for the bump. Once I have the exhaust done, I'll start working on it again.

From what I have read here, the MPFI pumps are the same between the N/A and turbos, and the SPFI pump is a little smaller. I had an SPFI pump on my first Suby, that had a EJ22e - no fuel cutouts. I did have fuel starvation on corners when the tank was below a 1/4. The car was originally carbed. This cutout, is it like a carb starving for fuel (bucking and kicking - small hesitation just before it's fits), or does it just stop climbing in RPMs? If you back out of the throttle, will it climb further into the RPMs? Does it do it in all gears? Is the ECU complaining about anything? Sometimes the ecu can freak out when the neutral switch says it's in gear, but the VSS says the car is stationary, and yet, the engine in under load as if it is actually moving. The ECU can tell when the engine is free revving vs accelerating the car. Check to see if the ECU has any trouble codes. Then, we can troubleshoot from there.

That's intresting, a Forester towing a EA81 chassis converted to a trailer. Gotta keep it in the family, right?