Phizinza

Hi, I'm wanting to put power steering in my Brumby. It will have an EJ with EJ P/S pump. My major question is does the Legacy rack have less travel (turning circle) than the EA82 rack? I know the EA82 racks are very much like the EA81 racks for allowing sharper turning circles but the 2000 model Outback rack is very limited with turning circle.. Thanks, Phiz

Fitted Outback seats in the Brumby http://offroadingsubarus.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/outback_seats_in_brumby-1.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/installing-gen-3-outback-seats-in-the-brumby/ Also fitted a Kenwood Digital Media Player which you can see on that site

Could always run it on the rear and take the right rear axle out like you do with a welded diff if its that much different and you have a long way to drive (over 60miles or)..

I held the lead for about 10 seconds, wasn't comfortable but as soon as I held it the revs read right and continued to until I let go. I swapped all the leads with another set, but not sure if they were ok or not. One thing to note with the other leads is the tacho reacted exactly the same, reading between 2 to 4k at idle.

It is adjustable for 3, 4, 6 or 8. I've tried it on all settings, the position of the needle changes but still erratic and well above where it should be bouncing more than a 2000rpm difference

Car runs great. I tried another coil, a Bosch, and it made the tacho read even higher but with the same amount of variance jumping around

When I stuck my 60mm Apexi rip off tacho on my 87 Brumby it read way to high and bounces a lot. I tried buying a brand new condenser and placing it between chassis and coil negative, no luck. Tried a 10k resistor in series with the sense wire, no luck. Tried a in4004 diode in series with it, no luck. But when I hold the coil negative and ground (feeling what feels like 30 to 50v AC tingles) the tacho goes steady and accurate... What gives? Is there something other than a condenser I need to absorb this AC current?

Ok. I'll be building up a gearbox for this car so it would make sense to use 25 spline stubs and ej dojs... Now I just have to make sure the joints on my Brumby are compatible with the EJ shafts DOJs I have. So many times I've pulled apart shafts from EA81s finding 3 bearing joints, small 6 ball, large 6 ball, different spline count on shaft itself etc... I would of have liked to keep the front shafts 23 spline for when an emergency happens and i need a quick fix, but if the EJs are 12mm longer then that's what i need. Thanks

They would be 25 spline? I haven't extended the control arms enough to fit the whole length of the ea82 shafts I don't believe. I haven't measured it but I did that mod on another Brumby.

So I repositioned the control arm mounts to get better camber, and by moving them just 14mm or so outwards I've encounted a problem with the DOJs. They are almost at full extension and one side wants to click now every so often. Ages ago I remember reading about using ea82 rear DOJs on the rear of ea81s to get more extension, is there anything like this for the front? What DOJ cup will fit my shafts?

I need a solution to the heater tap. In my Brumby/BRAT when i turn the heating on it works, but when i turn it off again the tap doesn't fully close. Not site if its a cable issue our the vavle itself? Is there a better tap from another brand that i can use as most of the taps I've seen are rusty all over and stiff to operate.

Weber Performance in Melbourne. I picked it up while I was down there a couple of weeks back. $65

I've heard Chinese rip off Webers are difficult to tune and act randomly. I've got a 34 now, and a rebuild kit, plus 8 or 9 jets which cost all up so far $80 or so.

Hi, I have a EJ25 from a BH outback with flywheel. I need a clutch for it though. Does anyone know if the EJ22 clutch will bolt on and work? I plan to run it on an older EJ gearbox with cable clutch where as the Outback has a hydraulic clutch. Thanks,

I used 2 magnets on the tailshaft and it worked without issue. That was using 1990 ej22

That's the 34ADM Weber. What I'm considering using.

I filled the pan with 3 litres, started it, stopped it, filled another 2 litres, started it, went through P-R-N-D backwards and forward a few times, stopped, filled another 2 litres, took it for a drive, and then another litre and finally it sat on hot full mark after a minute of rest in park with the engine running.. Thanks for the help, looks like the transmission is good now

The TC isn't full, but has ATF in it, probably a litre..

Following on from my last thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144159-help-4eat-97-outback-torque-converter-seatingbroken-trans/?do=findComment&comment=1211545 Now this Trans is empty of oil, will its oil pump self prime once I've refilled it? Or do I have to pump oil into it somehow (through a hole on the box somewhere)?

It was a broken oil pump, rotor snapped into 5 pieces... I've pulled out the Trans, stripped it down to the oil pump assembly, gone to the wreckers and done the same to a 91 Liberty pulled to rotor and vains, put them in this box and assembled it all together again... Currently its bolted to the engine waiting to go back in the car... What a $&!£ design, so easy to get it wrong.

Just wondering if I've broken the auto trans in this Outback I've been doing a head gasket job on. When I pulled the engine the torque converter fell out a bit, I pushed it straight back in and it spun ok. I put the engine in today and it was a bit tight. Once the engine and trans were mated directly together and tightened down I tried to turn the engine over to bolt up the TC to the flex plate and it wouldn't turn. I tried turning it with a longer lever and the trans gave way with a bit of a tick and grinding sound from the TC and flex plate. After this I tried turning the TC through the starter hole and it would only move back and forth a tiny bit. So I pulled the engine and checked it out, I played around trying to seat the TC and it eventually seated in allowing to turn almost 120 degrees before getting stiffer. I could turn it back and forth about 120 degrees, clockwise would hit a hard point with a clunk noise, anti-clockwise would just get harder and harder to turn and at some points make snicking noises. So, is it just I haven't seated it correctly yet, or is it a broken oil pump?

I think I'll go with just drilling out the cross member control arm mountings. Then add some extra plate welded on to prevent it tearing apart. Looks to be the simplest method.

The post said drilling made slight decrease in positive camber. So it is still positive? How much?

I'm wondering if anyone has new ideas on front camber correction? So there's lengthening the control arms. Completely changing the hubs to 5 stud with camber adjuster bolts. Changing the strut top to adjustable ones... I want to keep it simple, and original 4 stud. I could lengthen the control arms, but when i did that in the past i had to change the knuckles and shafts to EA82 ones, too much stuffing around.. Just want to kick the bottom of the wheels out by 10mm or even less to correct the camber. Maybe just drilling the engine cross member control arm mounts out a bit to gain the track?

Very interesting. Could be a better solution to my top wishbone mod...