Phizinza

They use syncros and everything. Looks just like the other gears in the gearbox.

When you said drive chain, I thought you ment drive train (commen to call a gearbox and diff a drive train here in Aus) BTW.. You don't have a chain.. It's purely gears.. Don't worry about that slop, it will always be there.

That's what I thought when I saw it, but I didn't bother looking closely. Looks pretty nice though.

Is the slop in the differential or in the axles (inner cups)? If you drive like you would with RWD I would recommend fixing the slop before doing the conversion.

Alright. Done some testing on the IAC... First up, eliminate EJ loom main relay. Instead of spending $40 on a second hand OEM Subaru relay, with running a risk of it not being wrong, I tested it with bypass wires. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_main_relay_testbypass.jpg I took the car for a drive with the relay in and running it. Then when the CEL came on and the fuel cut at full throttle came in I turned the car off, took the relay out and put the wires in (just crimp connectors on large speaker wire.) I took off and soon after the CEL came back on and the fuel cut came in again.. Heres something I thought was interesting, the CEL goes out after a while (along with the fuel cut.) And then a while later of driving, it comes back on... So, relay eliminated. Next was to make sure the IAC always was getting 12V+. So I hooked up a wire into stuffed the IAC's plug. Then ran that with another wire to the inside of the car, along with a mulitmeter. Took the car for a drive, this time it took about 10mins before the CEL came on, but it still came on.. And when it was on, the IAC was getting a very constant 13.7X volts. So the IAC is getting good volts at all times. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_iac_volttesting.jpg Next I think I need to check the signal into the ECM when the light is out, and then when it comes back on see what it reads. My manual says the two wires for the IAC are in B44, number 1 and 2. I have no idea how I'm going to check these while I'm driving and while the CEL is on, maybe wait till tonight when my brother can help. It's just annoying how it comes and goes randomly now.. I think the volts going from the IAC to the ECU should be between 6 and 10 volts depending on if it's closed or open. Another interesting fact is the car idles fine now, even though the CEL is coming on every so offen. And, yes, the ECU has code 24 still stored in it. I was trying to wipe the codes but I forgot I left the IAC unpluged so it kept coming up with code 24 right away. Silly me.

Alright. Done some testing on the IAC... First up, eliminate EJ loom main relay. Instead of spending $40 on a second hand OEM Subaru relay, with running a risk of it not being wrong, I tested it with bypass wires. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_main_relay_testbypass.jpg I took the car for a drive with the relay in and running it. Then when the CEL came on and the fuel cut at full throttle came in I turned the car off, took the relay out and put the wires in (just crimp connectors on large speaker wire.) I took off and soon after the CEL came back on and the fuel cut came in again.. Heres something I thought was interesting, the CEL goes out after a while (along with the fuel cut.) And then a while later of driving, it comes back on... So, relay eliminated. Next was to make sure the IAC always was getting 12V+. So I hooked up a wire into stuffed the IAC's plug. Then ran that with another wire to the inside of the car, along with a mulitmeter. Took the car for a drive, this time it took about 10mins before the CEL came on, but it still came on.. And when it was on, the IAC was getting a very constant 13.7X volts. So the IAC is getting good volts at all times. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_iac_volttesting.jpg Next I think I need to check the signal into the ECM when the light is out, and then when it comes back on see what it reads. My manual says the two wires for the IAC are in B44, number 1 and 2. I have no idea how I'm going to check these while I'm driving and while the CEL is on, maybe wait till tonight when my brother can help. It's just annoying how it comes and goes randomly now.. I think the volts going from the IAC to the ECU should be between 6 and 10 volts depending on if it's closed or open. Another interesting fact is the car idles fine now, even though the CEL is coming on every so offen. And, yes, the ECU has code 24 still stored in it. I was trying to wipe the codes but I forgot I left the IAC unpluged so it kept coming up with code 24 right away. Silly me.

My whole fuse box is corroded bad. It makes it look like a fuse is dead when it's not. Might be a good idea to clean all the fuse contacts and then WD40 them. Or it could be something different.. Electrics are like that, they make no sense, until you find out what was the problem.

Good point..

... Your kidding right?

EA81dc, no big leaks 7 to 10 psi at idle, 20 to 25 psi at 3000rpm, 30 to 40 psi at 6000rpm. EJ22, with over 300,000km, no big leaks 14 to 16 psi at idle, 30 to 35 psi at 3000rpm.

Seems your on a tight budget, don't forget to think about the cost of the adapter plate and flywheel re-drill/grind. This is the other big extra cost. Also the fuel system needs some thi... hang on, you have SPFI right? good, no problems there. The rest is just small things.

I really can't wait til I bolt my street tyres back on (they are directional 215/60R15's.) Grip like superglue with the old EA81, And seems I've already got 4 wheel drifts on my mud terrains on dry pavement, I'm guessing I'm going to have a lot more fun with the street tires. I better change them over soon, before my mud terrains disapear..

It's even illegal to put a different (ie. EA81 into an EA81) unless you notify the authorities before you do the swap and wait til you get the rego papers through with the new engine number... Myself, well... I just try to make it look legal Where is this topic going with all this air con talk and engine swap talk.. Hell, I don't even remember where it started.. Oh, cops, that's right.

Theres no way they are going to be used on-road, so the risk of anything but damaging the tire or brake lines and stuff is pretty small.. There was some atv tires talked about which had a much higher load rating, I think it was posted my flyb0y. Check the similar threads below, may get some good info in those.

I may be wrong, but I think the 4.44's only came in a female version (no stubs sticking out of the diff.)

Top one on ^ post looks best out of all.

Good job Numbchux. Can I put that on my site? To some this just looks like how it should, to others it's a master piece. You do have to have a slight concept of electricity when doing a conversion like this.

Yeah, sorry, my brain is screwed this morning...

I checked this a while back and both were 10.2ohms.. And that is in spec to the manual. But because it happens sometimes and not others maybe it is shorting out or something.. I'm going to replace the relay when I get a spare and time. Thanks.

Yeah, I heard that you can burn the up easy.. I'll never know as I'm on AWD.. It's awesome what 4wd/awd gives in the way of traction. I done a 5K drop on a dirt road up hill in low range and I was flying in seconds, only a tad of wheel spin. And that's with all three open diffs. You have 4WD right? Try doing a take off with it engauged! Wow it's fun...

Heres a pic of where I hammered the bashplate.. I forgot to get a pic of it on, but you pretty much know what it looks like anyway.. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_sump_bashplate.jpg

Theres always the brake boost vac line.. Don't want to lose that, haha. EA82's suck for vacuum lines. Weber does a pretty good job with them, but I'm not sure what else you can do. The carbs on EA82's are a bit too complicated for me.

Nice to hear of your restoration work. Keeping rare old cars on the road is great I reckon. Especially an XT6, I would love to own one. Maybe if I ever do get an XT I'll convert it to a 6. Pretty good looking end resualt. Your already above my level of fixing rust. But I guess the biggest rust spot on my Brat is only about 5cm by 1cm. And that is practically the only rust hole . AWD is fun, isn't it

Bury it.. It's no use to anyone now, it's dead.

I've already fix the purge solenoid problem. I used the resistor idea on that one and it went away and hasn't come back.. Are you still trying to say that because I don't have the real deal in there it is affecting the the IAC? Sounds a little weird.. In my other thread the postie reminded me of what he said a while back which was the main relay might be half broken. Apparently it supplys the IAC with 12v's. So I'm going to check that out next. Just need to find another relay. So to put everyone upto speed, I onoly have code 24 now.